Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?
Thank you for helping make our site better.
PartSelect Number PS11742257
This idler spring is almost four inches long. It is made of metal.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
All went well 1-remove front panel 2 screws 2-remove 2 front springs tilt tub 3-forward bottom out 4-remove pump 3 torx screws 5-r and r belt pulley and spring reassemble fast service as well thank you
Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.
Were these instructions helpful?
This was a complete tear down of the washer. I don't think I missed removing anything. The hardest thing to remove was the top seal hub. But I had a puller that worked OK but broke it (hub)upon removing. Not a worry since I know it was going to be replaced. Didn't use idler shaft has the original is swedged onto arm. I just polished out the original shaft and re-lubed it. The replacement shaft was threaded & would have made me grind off the original & bolt it to the arm ( NO NUT PROVIDED WITH SHAFT EITHER) The pulley I received was narrower then the original but used it just the same, I didn't think it would matter as it floats on the shaft and will move with the belt. You must be very careful not to damage the plastic tub if you do it's new washer time anyway. Being in the mechanical - electrical trade the last 30 years this wasn't that hard for me. And since I have a lot of tools to work with it wasn't a issue if I could. Still this isn't a job for a novice or some one without mechanical skills. and room to tear it apart. It takes up a lot more room when it's in pieces!
To replace the belt: First, unplug the appliance. No sense in poking and getting zapped.Remove any water from the tub, if there is some, by running the washer through the end of the rinse cycle. This is the point of extracting water through the water pump. Remove the bottom, front access panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom and sliding the panel down and out. It is held in place by metal clips at the top. So, it has to "unsnap" at the top. Next, remove (by pulling out and up to disengage its hook) the left front stabilizer spring from the bottom of the outer tub. Pry it out with a screwdriver blade under the hook enough to release it from its hole in the frame. Once released, slide the hook along the lip of the frame towards the back of the washer and out of the way. Makes it easier to get back in if it is still stretched some. This allows it to be out of the way in order to remove the motor. Disconnect the hoses attached to the discharge pump. Be sure to have a couple of towels handy for any water left in the lines. Place the towels directly under the hoses before disconnecting. Set the hoses to the side of the washer cabinet. Loosen and remove the back (when looking at the motor from the front access) two bolts holding the motor support frame to the frame supporting the transmission. Next, locate and remove the top two bolts holding the motor frame to the tub frame. Be sure to support the motor as the last bolt is removed so that it does not fall down. Tilt the motor slightly to the left. Locate the wiring harness at the top left side of the motor. There is a plastic clip in the middle and on top of the wiring harness. Push down on the clip as you grasp the harness. This will release the clip's grip at the back of the harness and allow you to pull it out. Set the harness back behind one of the nearby tension springs to keep it out of the way. Once the harness and bolts are removed, tilt the bottom of the motor towards you and pull down and out to clear the outer tub frame. With the motor out, fiip it over and locate the three screws holding the pump in place. Using a #25 torx head screwdriver, remove the screws. The pump will now separate from motor. Visually check that the pump does not have an obstruction. Manual check by spinning the pump by hand. It should move freely. Before installing the spin belt, clean the motor pulley of any residue. Remove and replace the idler arm spring. Leave the spring attached to the arm only. Do not reattach it to its anchor point on the motor frame. Install the spin belt, making sure that the belt is on either side of the pump's rear leg. (Rear leg being the leg 90 degrees counterclockwise to the pump outlet port.) Be sure that the idler arm pulley is able to apply pressure to the belt.Reverse steps to put the pump, motor and springs back in place. Be sure to plug in the wiring harness before the motor is place back into position. Tip: Leave the idler spring off until after the spin pulley is wound onto the helix pulley. You can reach around the motor from the right side and grasp the pulley. Spinning it slowly as you feed the belt will make it easier to get it back on. Last, plug in the machine and give a Tim Allen ARH, ARH, ARH, Ugh?
I takened the 4 bolts out of the motor assimbley, and droped the whole thing out where I could see the screws that held the water pump on, and I took them out, and lifted the water pump, and put the belt in place, and the new pully on , and the new spring in place. Then I reversed the proseger. It works like a new one.
All brand logos are trademarks of their respective owners.
The PartSelect logo is a Registered Trademark of Atlantic Laundry Centres, Ltd.
Copyright © 1999-2016 , Eldis Group Partnership. All rights reserved.