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PartSelect Number PS11742021
This part comes with a three-wire lead. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Repair was easy. Removed two side panels on the control plate. Removed two phillips screws that hold the control panel to the body of the washer. Disconnected the electic connection to the wires leading to the lid switch. Three sided of the lower cover lift over and removed from the washer frame. Access to the lid switch and wire retainers was easy. Removed two screws holding the remaining parts of the switch and replaced with new. Re-routed the wires through the retainers. Set the sides back on making sure the set all the way back in the frame and fit properly into the plastic strips on the back of the washer. Reconnected wires, screws and end caps.
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Unplug machine, Remove side caps on control panel, remove one screw on each side of control panel that will be exposed after you remove the side caps, Remove control panel from machine so that electrical connections are visible. Locate wiring harness connection for lid switch and unplug. Install new switch the same way the old one was installed. No need to remove any other part of washer if you can reach between drum and top of washer to fish the wiring through.
The first thing I did was unplug the washer (didn't want any suprizes). Then I removed the two screws from the lid switch and let it dangle. Then through the space between the tub and cabinet I chased the wires to each wire holder (there are two). Then I removed the two end caps on the top of the washer and unscrewed the top (2 screws ) rotated the top of the washer back (where the timer is). Then unpluged the lid switch and connected the new switch and put everything back together (reverse of how I took it apart). It has taken me longer to write this review then it did to change the switch. But if it helps just one person fix their washer and not have to call a service man. I'll be happy.
The hardest thing was figuring out how to get behind the control panel. The plastic side brackets popped off to expose some screws, etc. We got back behind the control panel, removed the old part, and put in the new one. No splicing or removing the sides. Go directly from behind the control panel! (small hands or a good flashlight would be helpful to get the new part mounted.
The new switch was quite different than the old, so I wasn't sure it was the right part. On closer examination, I saw it had been greatly improved and strengthened. I merely unscrewed the old switch, cut the wires, and installed the new switch, using wire nuts to rewire it. This switch is clearly a good fix for a weak design. Sure glad I found partselect.com!
dryer remove bottom panel and r&r thermistor very easy to do. your self diagnose help I could not have done it
1. Watch the partselect.com repair videos for either of the following parts: Part # 3363394 (White Direct Drive Water Pump - two ports) or Part # 285753A (Direct Drive Coupling). 2. After disconnecting the washing machine from the wall, these videos will show you how to disconnect the frame off the washing drum from the front. Disconnecting the top panel is a little different: pull/pop the two end pieces off, and unscrew the screws. 3. Upon removal of the front frame (per videos), disconnect the electrical device from underneath the lid, using a phillips screwdriver and a nutdriver and/or wrench. Use a flathead screw driver for the clips to remove/replace the electrical wires. No need to splice/cut any wiring. 4. Put everything back together.
The biggest problem for me was finding the screws to remove the control panel. First there are two screws on the top back side of the control panel, then there are plastic covers that have to be removed from both sides of control panel, then you can remove the screws at the base of the control panel. Set the control panel back, then remove the golden brackets that hold the cabinet to back of the washer. The whole cabinet will come forward with a little coaxing. (Remember to put the screws with the part you have removed to make sure you put them back in the same place.) Next remove screws that hold on the lid switch, remove wiring from clips, then replace with new switch, situate wiring in clips, position switch into place, screw into place. The cabinet is really hard to get back into place, be patient it may take a few tries. Once you get the cabinet in place, replace the golden brackets, then place the control panel where the screw holes line up and screw down, replace plastic sides, then replace the screws in the back side and your done.
Removed the valance by unscrewing nuts on top back and then removing side wings. The valance can be flipped up and hung over the back of the backsheet making sure not to damage clear hose. Then remove the old switch, wire and cut off the ground wire. Moount the new switch and make sure the wire is well back from the drum by tying to the old clip that held the old wire. Connect the ground to the body now under the valance. I found a hole there and screwed the ground terminal to it with a self taping screw.This procedure allows you to replace the switch without having to take the complete washer front body off.
Replaceing the actual switch was easy as unscrewing two screws with the lid up. The wiring was a different story. I guess you can cut and spice and be done with it but to get to the real connection, a lot has to come apart or have very long arms to reach from the bottom. I first removed the cover to the dials by removing the side trim and a screw at each end near the base. That exposed the wire connection. The wire actually runs under the top therefore I had to remove the back panel partially to gain access to the wiring and holders for the wire. Just by remembering the steps while backing out, everything worked out.
Removed end caps on control panel, removed two screws, lifted the control panel and rolled it back out of the way.Undid clips and wire connection and pulled the cabinet off. Replaced the switch and put everything back together. Easy job but helps to have two people to get the cabinet back on right.
I had to unscrew 2 screws that held the control panel, then remove the 2 end caps, remove 2 screws that held the control panel to the washing machine. I then lifted the control panel and leaned the lower case forward. All this to get access to the ground screw for the lid mount. It sounds like a lot, but actually it was quite simple. I replaced the old switch with a new one and put everything back together just like new. No extra screws or parts that I could not remember where they came from. Thanks Parts Select. Reading the comments from others helped me to realize that I could do the work without worry. The only problem I had was ordering the correct part. That did not happen until I got the correct part number from the old part.
Unscrewed two screws that hold the conrol counsel and tilted the control counsel back. Disconected brass clips that held the back of the unit to the cabinet tilted he cabinet back toward the front and slid it off. Disconected the wire harness for the switch and unscrewed the two screws under the lid and took the switch out replaced the switch put the screwes back that held the switch in place tilted the cabinet back nd slide it back on refastened he brass clips tild the control counsel bak replaced the screws the hole repair took about 30 minutes fairly easy to do with just a flat head and philips screw driver
I looked for a youtube video on how to repair the lid switch. The video was very good but was filmed in a perfect world. My washer sits in a somewhat confined area so getting the outside skin put back perfectly was a bit tricky.
but switch fixed
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