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PartSelect Number PS11742021
This part comes with a three-wire lead. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I replaced the pump which was clogged and would not drain the machine. That repair was easy and took about 30 minutes. The machine still would not drain or spin and I discovered the lid switch was broken. I ordered one of those too, and the replacement was easy. The hardest part was figuring out how the spring clips went back on. I found a video for that too. I found videos for everything. Partselect gave excellent service. I am in Texas and received delivery (non-express) in one day each time from their Oklahoma facility.
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The repair was extremely simple. After disconnecting the power I unscrewed and lifted the mechanical assembly off the top and pulled the outer casing back. I was able to get in through the lid opening to unscrew the ground screw followed by the screws holding the lid switch in place. After removing the entire piece everything went right back in place as it came out. The only issue I had was with one of the clips holding the wires in place. It came off and I had to push it back in rather hard to keep the wiring in place. Otherwise, this was the easiest repair I've ever done.
Followed the instructions on the Parts Select video - went pretty much as shown on video - except reinstalling washer outer body back onto frame was a little more difficult to line up properly than shown on video. Probably wouldn't have tried to do this myself without the video - it would have taken me a long time to figure out how to get to the switch.
we did it exactly as the video demonstrated and it worked great! Thanks so much for the video!
I watched the video and it was easy to replace switch. The only problem i had was moving the shell back into position onto the frame,but i eventually made it work.
I started by unplugging the machine and turned the water off.Then I removed the washing machine sheet metal outside by removing the top screws, spring clips, and flipped the control panel up. Then lifted the sheet metal cover off of the entire machine for good access.Next, I removed the hoses from the pump, then I popped the retaining clips off of the pump. Worst part was pulling the pump off of the motor shaft due to corrosion. Had to use a pair of screw drivers for leverage after a few taps with the rubber hammer to break the corrosion loose. Once I got the pump off, I ground the corrosion with a Craftsman rotary tool with a wire wheel.The new pump went on pretty easily -- I put a little light grease on the shaft to help with installation, and hope that the corrosion adhere as bad the next time. I reinstalled the clips and installed the water lines to the pump. Next, I attacked the lid switch. The old switch came off pretty easily with just 2 screws, pulled the wire routing clips off and disconnected the wire connector from the sheet metal. Installation was pretty simple as I installed the switch with the two screws, and routed the wire as it was before. I pulled the jumper wire that I had installed previously. I installed the sheet metal cover for the washer and flipped the control panel down. I plugged the washing machine back in and turned on the water. I ran the machine through a quick ops check and found that the pump was not leaking and the lid switch worked fine. Since I was satisfied with the repair I installed the screws from the control panel to the metal chassis and then installed the plastic fairings over the top.
I simply followed the instructions given on the handy video posted on the web site. The clutch came out and went back in just like in the video. It was fool proof.Thanks,Robert; Palmdale CA.
Not having an Illustrated Parts List or Assembly Drawing made it pretty much a trial and error disassembly & re-assembly. I was finally able to determine the only way to install the switch was to remove the outer shell of the washing machine. The replacement switch itself was very easy to install after I flipped the outer shell onto it's face and was able to gain access.The outer shell is a little tricky to remove & flip over but once you remove the retaining springs on the top surface i.e. after removing the top control panel and the rear access panel, it becomes a lot easier.Disassembly sequence should probably be; remove rear access panel, release top control panel (don't bother to unhook electrical connections), release outer shell retaining springs on top surface , then flip outer shell onto it's face.
Order Switch Lid, now my machine is working like a new machine, had to remove the lid and pop off the old switch lid bascially from the back. I love partSelect.com if ever another problem, will use PartsSelect.com.~Thank you.
I removed the console end cap screws and popped them off. This exposed the plug which had to be disconnected. The two screws holding the switch assembly had to be removed. I attached the new switch, ran the wire along the top and connected the plug. I then replaced the end caps and screws. At one time this replacement took less than five minutes by popping the top and replacing either the lever or the switch.
First of all you need to unplug the washer from the electric wall outlet then Remove the top covers left and right to expose Screwes unscrewed them and lift the top control cover. remove the switch by loosening two screws and disconeccting it from the plug .connect the new switch and reverse the process, reconnect the washer to the wall and try it it should work.
Just the way I found via the Internet. However, I was more impressed that this site HAD the part for something so old and that it got it to me in 4 days. VERY IMPRESSED! Saved me over $100 in service fees.
The lid switch on my Kenmore 110 had broken. I removed the two snap-on end caps from the control panel, exposing two phillips head screws. remove the screws and tilt the control panel back. Then remove the two large clips that fasten the cabinet to the back of the washer. Tilting the cabinet forward allows easy access to the lid switch, wiring, and connector assembly. 1/4 inch nutdriver needed for the ground wire fastener. Lid switch is mounted with two phillips head screws and is easily replaced.
I started the repair by reading online about possible causes. Once it proved to be the switch I used your site to identify the right switch. Your site was the only one that had picture of the switch for easy id. I then read about other repairs and followed their lead. Easy.
Removed the back panel and cabinet. Removed the pump and separated the gear box and motor. Replaced coupler, reassembled. Lid switch removed/replaced very easy, as was lid screw.
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