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PartSelect Number PS11742021
This part comes with a three-wire lead. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I unplugged the machine.Removed the back panel.Located the switch, removing it and then following the wire to the plug, unplugging it. replaced with new switch, plugged it in and replaced the back panel. Removing and putting the back panel back was the hardest part.
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Honestly, it took more time to figure out how to get at the dang thing than it did to replace the assembly. One screwdriver for the whole project. Very easy to figure out (once I got into the machine casing, anyway).
Previous owner had bypassed the switch, but using the connector on the switch cable assembly itself, so after replacing the switch, I simply unplugged his old connector with the two terminals jumpered together, and pugged in my new switch....perfect job! Thanks.
Installed new Lid Switch. Removed the cabinet to gain access to the Lid Switch and removed old Lid Switch and installed the new one.reinstalled cabinet and top control panel.
I had to ask my neighbor to assist with the re-installation of the washer shell back on the washing machine frame. In the video the installer just lines-up the washer shell and it fits perfectly. You have make sure that the washing machine frame bottom tabs are straight before you attempt to replace the shell on the frame. Also, at the back of the washing machine the control panel prohibits the shell from lining-up with the rear tabs on the frame. I had to remove two machine screws from the rear panel in order for the washing machine shell to re-attach to the bottom frame. I would not have been able to align the washing machine shell without another person assisting me!! Changing the lid switch was simple however the washing machine shell is a totally different story.
My wife shut the lid to the washer with something stuck in the lid switch and it broke the pieces that hold the switch to the machine. I backed out the screws and put the new switch in. Couldn't really get to the screw that held the ground in place so I clipped that wire and used a wire nut to splice it to the new switch. Running the wires up to the connection wasn't that hard. Remembering to plug the connection in would have made this a lot quicker. Nice upgrade to the part too. That piece of metal under the switch is sure to keep it from breaking again anytime soon. Thanks.
I unplugged the machine, and i removed the side caps on either side of the control panel; i removed one screw on each side of the control panel. I removed the control panel from the machine. I located the wiring for lid switch and i unplugged it. I installed the new switch the same way the old one was installed just as stated the "PartSelect" instructions.
Before starting I watched the video from your site on exactly how to do the job. I'm glad that it was there because this machine can apart differently that any I have seen before. Following the instuctions made for a simple repair and a happy wife.
After taking he top control panel cover off 2 screws on either side, this allowed me to see the wire harnesses i located the switch lid harness removed it and noticed that the ground is attached towards the front under the top cover of the machine, almost impossible to unscrew the ground without more work, so i put the harness back cut off the the broken switch lid and spliced the new one with the old wiring very easy be sure to match the wires properly as they the same in appearance.
I first removed the control panel to see if I could connect the wires as designed. I soon realized it was much easier just to splice the wires to connect the new part. I did that using a wire cutter, wire connectors and electrical tape and then attached the lid switch to the machine with a phillips head screw driver (2 screws). Toughest part was the small space within which to work. Otherwise, very simple and machine is back to normal operation.
I replaced the lid-switch assembly. I removed the failed lid switch on Monday 12/26 by removing 2 screws on the control panel and pushing it back, then removing the cabinet to access the lid-switch. I then ordered the new part and waited for it to be delivered on 12/28 at about 10:00 A.M. I then installed the new part and reassembled the cabinet and control panel. Removal took about 30 min. and installation took about 30 min. (I was 89 years old on Jan. 3 this year, I have COPD's and on oxygen 24/7} It helped that I had a repair manual, viewed the repair on U-Tube and had replaced the same part on the same washer in 2003.
Watched the video example of the repair on the same site where I purchased the switch. Gathered the tool recommended and completed the repair exactly as modeled in the video. Perfect. No problems.
Removed lid and replaced switch. Easy job
Remove both plastic end caps on control assbly. remove 2 screws holding control assbly. Lift washer casing up and away form washer frame. Remove lid switch harness from washer by lifting the plastic clip up.Remove lid switch wiring harness after removing 2 screws holding switch to washer. Place new switch into hole by squeezing together. Connect wiring from control assbly into new switch receptacle. Attach wiring to clips on side of frame and install switch waser casing with the 2 screws. place washer casing back onto frame and line up with rear panel. make sure sides line up with back. Install 2 screws to secure top control assbly. Replace end caps.
followed video intructions.
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