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PartSelect Number PS11741931
This drum glide is sold individually. ***Please Note: these should be replaced in pairs.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all.
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1) Removed lower panel2) Removed door3) Removed Front Panel - removed connectors from switch and marked connections4) Removed Front Bulkhead5) Glides and Felt pads were missing, and brackets were nearly worn through6) Removed and Replaced old brackets7) Attached self-adhesive felt pads8) Attached Drum Glides9) Removed old felt seal10) Glued new felt seal in place with 5-min epoxy11) Allowed Epoxy to set and stop stinking12) Re-attached front bulkhead13) Re-attached remaining partsDryer works great, is quiet again, and no longer eats clothes!!!!!!
I removed the covers, released the belt, pulled the drum, replaced rollers, glides, idler pulley and motor. The motor was the main issue but I replaced the rollers, idler and glides while I was in there. My biggest challenge was the clips that hold the motor in place. The hooked over a metal ear. I was able to use a big strait slot with downward pressure to release and reinstall. The illustratations on the web site made ordering the correct part easy and the part fit perfectly so this repair job could have been accomplshed by anyone with very basic mechanical understanding.Thank you
I am a widow. Had to pay for labor. He said it was motor. I said I would think about it. I looked on line at your site. Found symptoms that pointed toward idler pulley wheel with bearing, etc. Your site said: ZERO PERCENT CHANCE LOUD SCREECHING WAS MOTOR! So I ordered all parts above. I called repairman to return; he assured me he tried it enough to be assured it was motor bearings. So, I placed another order with you for a motor. Repairman just installed motor, screeching is gone! We installed the belt, pulley, etc..few of the above parts since dryer is old. PLEASE UPDATE YOUR WEBSITE TO INCLUDE MOTOR (BEARING) AS POSSIBILITY FOR LOUD SCREECHING.
I removed the lower front panel, which is held in place by two screws at the very bottom. I found pieces of the worn out brackets in the bottom of dryer. I then located damaged brackets bolted under front of drum at about 4&8 oclock. each bracket is held in place by two small bolts from the back side. The bolts for the new brackets go back in from the front, which eliminated the problem of stripped out holes. It is helpful if someone can reach indryer and hold up front of drum while you are starting bolts in brackets, I found that the kid standing closest worked great. The exploded view parts list was great for finding what I needed. My old dryer works great again and it is as quiet as a new one. This was $24.00 that was very well spent.
Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel. Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate size 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.
First, leaned dryer back and removed 2 screws at bottom front panel.Then removed 2 screws at bottom of door assembly. Pulled bottom door assembly forward and down.Disconnected "can't go wrong" wiring connectors.Then removed old cylinder glide rivets at bottom of cylinder using drill motor with 1/4" drill.I installed new felt pads on new cylinder glides. Then installed glides with rivet gun.Reconnected wire harness.Installed door assembly and lower panel assembly.BACK IN BUSINESS! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
First had to remove the front panel after lifting the top up on its hinges and supporting it. Diconnected wires to the front panel after marking them where they go. Saw where drum was rubbing above the impeller housing for the fan. Removed the drum slides and replaced them with new slides and brackets. Removed the belt and replaced it. It is a little tricky with the belt on the tensioner so pay close attention on how you remove it, it will make putting the new one on easier.Replaced the felt gasket with high temp glue. Cleaned inside and outside of cabinet. Put the panel back on,hooked up the wires and it looks and runs like new again.
After removing the front of the dryer, I took out the front assembly where the seal and glide brackets attatch. I replaced the bad cylinder glide by drilling the old rivets out and re-riveting the new glide in place from the back side. I then replaced the felt pads and glides on the glide brackets and glued a new cylinder seal around the front assembly. I reccomend having 4 hands for placing the cylinder seal around the assembly with fresh glue.
1. I removed the lower front panel.2. Carful remove the front door making not of which wires whent were of the switch3. Removed the front bulkhead.4. Drilled out the rivits that held the bracket in place.5 Use a pop rivit gun and 1/8 in pop rivit and washer.6 Installed the felt pad and the drum guide. 7 Put the whole thing back together.I love your web site the exploded diagrams make fixing my dryer quite easy. I do it. so for under $50 my dryer is almost like new.
Replaced glides and assy idler pulley cleaned all parts fron dust and debree, vaciumed heating eliment to remove all excess lint and wool to make sure I did'nt have a fire in the lower unit.Job was'nt all that hard just have to watch what you're doing.
Removed bottom front panel by two screws. glide brackets at about 8 and 4 o'clock positions, with screws coming in from the back. The replacement glide bracket and two drum glide will be needed. I drilled out the screw holes and used the original screws because replacement screws were too short and the screws go in from the front on the replacement glide bracket. You will need to slightly raise the front of the drum to install the glide brackets correctly. the reinstall the front cover.
I was somewhat intimidated by the fact that dryers are all repaired from the front. Pulling out the drum seemed scary at first, but that turned out to be very easy. After removing the front panel and lint shroud it is easy to reach the idler pulley and take the tension off the belt. If you're going to replace the rollers which is generally the cause of the noise, get new retaining wrings and a decent pair of pliers for them. The rings can lose all their spring easily by strechting them too far to get them off. Replace the idler pulley and belt while you have the dryer apart. Vacuum all the lint out of there and you're good to go.
Parts that were recommended for the noise issue were spot on. Instructions were very helpful and made the job go very smooth. Replaced the belt, rollers don't forget to order (2) felt pad and idler pulley replaced. The part suggestions for the heat problem did not fix the problem. The burner flame would come on for 2-5 min. then go off. A few min. later the burner would try to ignite but would not start. The igniter would get cherry red but no activation. I end up replacing the coil kit. Turned off the gas removed (2) screws and wala done 5 min. and it fixed the problem.
removed the front panel and the drum panel cover.replaced the guides and the felt pads and re-assembled.
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