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PartSelect Number PS11741917
This part is located between the back of the drum and the rear dryer panel.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I pulled the bottom panel and the door panel to replace the manifold and felt gasket around the drum. I removed old gasket very easily, it peeled right off. I use brake cleaning fluid (Spray Can from Auto Zone about $1.45) to remove old glue. Used spray contact cement (Elmer's about 4.50 at Ace) and sprayed the panel and gasket surfaces and let dry. I then applied a 2nd coat and let get "tacky" and installed the gasket. You will need an extra set of hands to hold the gasket in place while you stretch it over the the panel. The vent manifold is held in place with 3 phillips screws and was installed in about 10 minutes. The only gripe I had was in the Parts-Select illustrated breakdown they don't tell you the lint screen comes with the manifold assembly, so I bought one of them too. Now have an extra lint screen
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1) Removed lower panel2) Removed door3) Removed Front Panel - removed connectors from switch and marked connections4) Removed Front Bulkhead5) Glides and Felt pads were missing, and brackets were nearly worn through6) Removed and Replaced old brackets7) Attached self-adhesive felt pads8) Attached Drum Glides9) Removed old felt seal10) Glued new felt seal in place with 5-min epoxy11) Allowed Epoxy to set and stop stinking12) Re-attached front bulkhead13) Re-attached remaining partsDryer works great, is quiet again, and no longer eats clothes!!!!!!
First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.
First, leaned dryer back and removed 2 screws at bottom front panel.Then removed 2 screws at bottom of door assembly. Pulled bottom door assembly forward and down.Disconnected "can't go wrong" wiring connectors.Then removed old cylinder glide rivets at bottom of cylinder using drill motor with 1/4" drill.I installed new felt pads on new cylinder glides. Then installed glides with rivet gun.Reconnected wire harness.Installed door assembly and lower panel assembly.BACK IN BUSINESS! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
First had to remove the front panel after lifting the top up on its hinges and supporting it. Diconnected wires to the front panel after marking them where they go. Saw where drum was rubbing above the impeller housing for the fan. Removed the drum slides and replaced them with new slides and brackets. Removed the belt and replaced it. It is a little tricky with the belt on the tensioner so pay close attention on how you remove it, it will make putting the new one on easier.Replaced the felt gasket with high temp glue. Cleaned inside and outside of cabinet. Put the panel back on,hooked up the wires and it looks and runs like new again.
After removing the front of the dryer, I took out the front assembly where the seal and glide brackets attatch. I replaced the bad cylinder glide by drilling the old rivets out and re-riveting the new glide in place from the back side. I then replaced the felt pads and glides on the glide brackets and glued a new cylinder seal around the front assembly. I reccomend having 4 hands for placing the cylinder seal around the assembly with fresh glue.
Determined that the 2 completely worn off front & rear drum seals were causing dryer to take too long to dry clothes.Removed the front bottom panel first, then the middle panel and then the top panel. After removing the belt from the drum, it came out easily. Replaced both thermostats and fusejust so they would be new in the unit.Reglued the seals in place and waited til glue dried. Then reassembled everything back. Also lubricated the drum wheels. Everything worked and was quiet!
Early in the life of my dryer, the Cylinder Seal came out. For the past two years I put off buying the part. When it came in, I p[opped the top of the dryer, removed the two screws holding on the front panel, and pulled the Cylinder of the back wall of the dryer. I then placed the seal in the right spot, glued it down and reassembled. About Fifteen minutes of work and a cheap part, and now my dryer dries a l;oad of clothes in an hour instead of three.
remove bottom two screws on lower front panel, remove panel. remove two screws on lower portion of door panel, pull bottom panel towards yourself to release pins at the top. Disconnect wiring for light and door switch (make sure to note what wires go where. Complete removal of front door panel. Remove 4 screws holding cylinder frame in place, lift to remove. remove remnants of old felt seal, use rotary tool to remove excess glue, etc. apply glue (used rubberized gorilla super glue), apply felt seal - allow glue to set up. reinstall in reverse direction from removal. Be sure to use glue as there are no clips or other retaining pieces for the new felt and it will not hold in place. overall pretty easy.
I started at the bottom and removed the two nut screws that support the bottom section of the front of the dryer. Then I removed the two nut screws that supports the next section and disconnected the two wires ( making note of wich terminals each wire went to). Then I removed the lint trap housing( three phillips head screws hold it in place from the inside). Next ,I removed the face plate( held in place by 4 nut screws and two metal tabs at the bottom). Then I took the old tub brackets and felt seal off of the face plate . Next ,spray adheisive arond the ring of the face plate and install the new felt seal, then the new brackets and dryer glides and felt pads. Last, re-install all components.
As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a couple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.
First of all I think this was an assembly issue, cause it was a bit noisy since we bought it, but I dismissed it as a break in noise & it would go away over time, but of course it just got worst ontil it failed.... Anyway 1st thing I did was, stick a standard screwdriver between the top & front, to pop the top off, then used a socket wrench set to remove the 2 screws for the front panel assembly, ( **taking note were what color wire connectors went were 3 for switch "y,g,b" & 2 for light "yb & g"), then used socket wrench set to remove 4 screws for the front bulkhead, ( upon removal I now understood what the noise was all about, the lip of the drum was rubbing against the bulkhead & both cylinder glide brackets, wearing the drum lip & cylinder glide brackets, down to shards of metal, rasor sharp, Both brackets were wore in half & bulkhead damaged ), then I removed the shards from the drum & used the hamer to dull & round a smaller drum lip, then I removed lint trap holder from bulkhead, ( since I had it apart I took it outside & cleaned it with my power jet hose attachment ), then I removed missalined & Damaged cylinder seal, srcapped bulkhead clean with standard screwdriver, applide goop glue to bulkhead & new cylinder seal, then applide new seal & let dry overnite, in the mean time I removed both damaged (the other half), cylinder glide brackets, used the old gliders & pads, ( they were not damaged, " LIKE NEW"???), attached them to the new bracket, then attached the 2 cylinder bracket assemblies to the bulkhead, then I used metal tape (several layers on both sides of bulkhead) to fix the damage caused by the old missalined seal & drum lip.... Then I re-assmembled lint trap holder to bulkhead, & re-assembled bulkhead to dryer, then attached the front, ( see above**), then popped the top into place... Now we have a GOOD QUIET dryer
The on-line video showed the dryer top being loosened from the front as the first step. On our dryer, the bottom panel in the front needed to be removed first - two screws, then the front panel(with door)- two more screws and two wires for the switch. Next was the front guide panel - four screws. The glide brackets bolted to this panel and the felt seal was glued to it. Reverse the process to put it all together, and my wife was happy again.
Unscrew front, detach electrical, tilt back top, remove drum. remove retaining ring and glide, replace ring and guide remove old felt seal, adhere new felt seal with contact cement, remove what was left of felt pads, replace pads and new glides, reassemble.
raised the top (screwdriver) undid the front , then removed 4 screws (front seal )removed) undid the dryer belt , remove drum , wire brushed the drum , applied glue (tacky) applied the felt belt aka rear belt seal , dries quickly. reassemble
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