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PartSelect Number PS11741913
This single drum support roller is used for square ported model clothes dryers. It has a metallic bearing in its center.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Went on line to this sites video's to diagnose the problem. Steve Ash is EXCELLENT. Put idler& roller replacement video's in my Favorite File! Ordered parts PS11741930&PS11741913 from this site on line. Good price, Fantastic 1 1/2 day delivery (Fed Ex ) Referred to great videos for installation. Hints: 1) Be sure to identify ALL wires 2) Be careful removing snap rings from rollers, I stretched mine and had to reform them.(new ones did not come with the rollers. 3) It would be a good time to replace the belt & drum pads when the drum is out.
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This dryer is an older one. I have kept it running throughout the years by just replacing parts a needed. This was a kind of rebuild. The dryer was making that squeaking noise when running so I knew the "glides" were worn and the belt, rollers and idler pulley had never been replaced. I ordered the parts from this website and I must say it took a while for them to ship, of course I guess since it was during the holidays that's to be expected. Once I received the parts I took the dryer apart. This model has a lower panel that comes off first then there are two 5/16" sheet metal screws that hold the door panel in place and then two more to hold the top down. Then I removed the front bulkhead which holds the drum glides. I replaced the glides then removed the drum from the dryer. To removed the motor there are two 5/16" screws to removed then pull the motor from the bottom. I then replaced the idler pulley, the two drum rollers on the rear of the dryer and the belt on the drum. Reassembly went fairly easy. I found the door switch was bad during reassembly because the dryer would not shut off once the door was opened. So picked up a new door switch from a local supplier, replaced it and all is good now. There really isn't that much to a dryer. A motor, heating unit (in the rear), control unit/timer on top, and then the rollers, idler pulley, and drum belt. The video instructions on this website were quite helpful. Hopefully it will last another year.
Loud squealing noise coming from the idler pulley. The pulley was not spinning freely on the shaft of the idler pulley lever to the point of putting a groove in the pulley and damaging the belt. To fix the problem replaced the belt, idler pulley, and idler pulley lever. Because I had the dryer apart also replace the following items. Drum support roller and drum slides.
I researched on this site as well as a few other sites for the possible cause of the problem as I am not experienced in appliance repairs nor very experienced in being a handy man. Someone told me dryers out of all appliances are the easiest ones to repair. I agree now. I recommend taking a look at your rollers first as it is easy to get to prior to ordering all your parts so that you can get all your parts at once. I first removed the front lower panel (4 screws), carefully removed the plastic vent from lint screen to outside venting which is just held in place, then removed upper front panel which included the door (4 screws/hex), removed 4 screws/hex holding top panel on and just lifted it up and proped it up and then I pulled out drum. I was able to see the two rollers at the bottom at this point. My left roller which was over the gas heat exchanger was so badly worn I could just pull it off. Here is where if I had inspected it before ordering the parts, I would have found the roller arm needed to be replaced too. Replacing the rollers you need to pull the retaining rings off which requires the retaining ring pliers. Slide the retaining rings off and then pull off the old rollers. I replaced the rollers and thrust washers on both sides, replaced the retaining rings and vacuumed out the entire dryer underneath then replaced everything in reversed order. Twenty minutes to replace these and we now have a quite dryer and I have a very happy wife. Well, I'm very happy that I only spent $30 to fix a dryer instead of probably over $100 for a repair man to do.
basically i took the whole front of dryer off and removed drum from there i could reach the rear rollers and changed them all is quiet now i also cleaned lint from blower motor and lint housing now it sounds like more air is moving and i beleive it dries clothes faster --runs and sounds brand new again!! Thank's Partsselect G.Booker
Removed the bottom panel. Removed door to dryer and disconnected the door switch. Removed the top of the dryer. Now I had access to the drum basket of the dryer. Removed the belt and took drum out. The idler was accessible and easy to replace. I replaced the other drum support rollers. These were a bit difficult when it came to removing the clamp pins holding the rollers. Once you get one the other is easy. Reassembly is relatively easy and quick. Dryer no longer squeals, runs nice. I felt really good.
Unplug dryer. Remove lower and upper front panels [remove wires from upper right door switch]. Lift up on belt idle pulley and take belt off pulley/motor. Remove front bulkhead and dryer lint/vent ducting. Note position on drum and remove belt. Unbolt top panel front 2 screws to allow room to remove drum. Remove drum. Take lock rings off drum support rollers and remove old rollers. Clean roller shafts and apply hi-temp grease [I used ultra hi temp brake grease-ceramic based-small packet can be purchase fm auto parts store]. Re-install new support rollers and lock rings. Re-install drum and slide belt back into position. Remove and replace felt pads and glides into inside of front bulkhead. Reinstall front bulkhead and top panel [connect door switch wires]. Install belt around idle tension pulley. Re-install lower panel. All parts fit perfectly and delivered quickly. Belt had just been replaced previously.
I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.
Used a dolly to move the drier out in the garage to give myself some room to work...remove the bottom panel--2 screws at the bottom...remove the door--2 screws at the bottom of the door, disconnect the 2 switch wires and then it slips out of the top....remove 2 screws from the top and swing the top all the way back out of the way---it'll just hang there.....remove the front drum support--4 screws.....slide the drum forward while working the drive belt off of the drum.....you can now see the 2 drum support wheels.....at that time I got my shop vac and got all the lint and crud outa there......remove the snap ring on each wheel, slide off the washer and wheel, pay attention--the wheel has a front and back.....reinstall the new wheel with washer and snap ring (i put a small dab of grease on the wheel support)....I also put a dab of grease on the belt tensioner wheel support--same little snap ring retainer.....reinstall the drum by sliding it in slowly as you work the belt back into place....install the front drum support--roll the drum by hand to make sure your belt is on properly.... resecure the top, then the door, and finally the bottom....when facing the drier my left wheel was in way worse condition----this is obviously because it is located right in front of the heating element....thanx and good luck....
First we had to virtually take the entire dryer housing apart - not very user friendly. We found that one of the two mounting screws on on of the rollers was gone. The mount was just wobbling around which caused the roller to fail and all of the noise. The wheel removal was a bit tough since there is very little room to pull it up and off of the center post. Definately need at least one helper to pull up on the drum while the wheels are removed and installed. Once the two new rollers were in place, the dryer worked like it was new. Not an easy job, but very do-albe - saved a ton of money doing it myself. Two must - haves: good set of snap ring plyers and one patient helper.
Idler was the noise source. Drum support rollers were failing also. I almost spent $500.00 on a new dryer, glad I replaced the parts instead. Sounds and works like new. Watch the video,its very helpful. Thanks Parts Select. You should advertise your services on TV or radio. I am glad I found you.
Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. After doing some research it sounded like the drum support rollers needed to be replaced. When disassembling the dryer, I discovered that this model is different than other Amana dryers. Do not start the disassembly with the top of the dryer. There are two front panels. You must first remove the smaller lower panel. You will find two screws close to the floor. Once you remove the screws the lower panel will come off exposing more screws. Remove those screws and the upper front panel will come off. Tilt the bottom of the panel out to clear the clips at the top. You will then see two screws attached holding down the top of the dryer with brackets. The rest of the disassembly is as described on the partselect video. I replaced the drum support rollers and also the pulley wheel and belt for good measure. I put it all back together. Rather proud of myself, I turn the dryer on. Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. Argggh! Upon closer inspection, I saw that the thumping noise was made when the seam of the drum passed over the support wheel. The seam of the drum had broken causing the metal to flex on one side and create the thumping noise. I had the drum seam welded. There is still a slight thump from the repair, but it is so much better! So if you have a thumping dryer, make sure you check out the seam on the drum as well as the support rollers.
remove front panels starting with lower panel and then the upper panel and also the screws that hold the top,lift the to and support it out of the way. removed the front drum support and reached in and took the belt off the idler pulley and then remove the drum. at this point you can get to the idler pulley and the drum support rollers. remove the snap rings and the old rollers and pulley and install the new parts in revers of removal. wrap the new belt around drum and place the drum on the rear support and reinstall the front drum support and put the belt on the same way as removed. reinstall front panels . doneSafety note: Be sure that the dryer plug and receptacle has no corrosion, mine did since the dryer is never unplugged since being installed, and after about 1/2 hr I could smell something burning and it was the plug and receptacle had melted due to a poor connection. Temp of the plug was over 160 deg. Installed new outlet and plug, all fine now
I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....
took bottom panel off of dryer which is held on by two screws,turned on dryer and could plainly see that the back left drum roller was just flopping around ordered a new one and also a new drum belt as the one that was on there was frayed. parts came in a few days later job took less than one hour very easy job for anyone with basic skills on using tools,wife is very happy
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