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PartSelect Number PS11741913
This single drum support roller is used for square ported model clothes dryers. It has a metallic bearing in its center.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed the bottom panel. Removed door to dryer and disconnected the door switch. Removed the top of the dryer. Now I had access to the drum basket of the dryer. Removed the belt and took drum out. The idler was accessible and easy to replace. I replaced the other drum support rollers. These were a bit difficult when it came to removing the clamp pins holding the rollers. Once you get one the other is easy. Reassembly is relatively easy and quick. Dryer no longer squeals, runs nice. I felt really good.
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Unplug dryer. Remove lower and upper front panels [remove wires from upper right door switch]. Lift up on belt idle pulley and take belt off pulley/motor. Remove front bulkhead and dryer lint/vent ducting. Note position on drum and remove belt. Unbolt top panel front 2 screws to allow room to remove drum. Remove drum. Take lock rings off drum support rollers and remove old rollers. Clean roller shafts and apply hi-temp grease [I used ultra hi temp brake grease-ceramic based-small packet can be purchase fm auto parts store]. Re-install new support rollers and lock rings. Re-install drum and slide belt back into position. Remove and replace felt pads and glides into inside of front bulkhead. Reinstall front bulkhead and top panel [connect door switch wires]. Install belt around idle tension pulley. Re-install lower panel. All parts fit perfectly and delivered quickly. Belt had just been replaced previously.
I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.
Used a dolly to move the drier out in the garage to give myself some room to work...remove the bottom panel--2 screws at the bottom...remove the door--2 screws at the bottom of the door, disconnect the 2 switch wires and then it slips out of the top....remove 2 screws from the top and swing the top all the way back out of the way---it'll just hang there.....remove the front drum support--4 screws.....slide the drum forward while working the drive belt off of the drum.....you can now see the 2 drum support wheels.....at that time I got my shop vac and got all the lint and crud outa there......remove the snap ring on each wheel, slide off the washer and wheel, pay attention--the wheel has a front and back.....reinstall the new wheel with washer and snap ring (i put a small dab of grease on the wheel support)....I also put a dab of grease on the belt tensioner wheel support--same little snap ring retainer.....reinstall the drum by sliding it in slowly as you work the belt back into place....install the front drum support--roll the drum by hand to make sure your belt is on properly.... resecure the top, then the door, and finally the bottom....when facing the drier my left wheel was in way worse condition----this is obviously because it is located right in front of the heating element....thanx and good luck....
First we had to virtually take the entire dryer housing apart - not very user friendly. We found that one of the two mounting screws on on of the rollers was gone. The mount was just wobbling around which caused the roller to fail and all of the noise. The wheel removal was a bit tough since there is very little room to pull it up and off of the center post. Definately need at least one helper to pull up on the drum while the wheels are removed and installed. Once the two new rollers were in place, the dryer worked like it was new. Not an easy job, but very do-albe - saved a ton of money doing it myself. Two must - haves: good set of snap ring plyers and one patient helper.
Idler was the noise source. Drum support rollers were failing also. I almost spent $500.00 on a new dryer, glad I replaced the parts instead. Sounds and works like new. Watch the video,its very helpful. Thanks Parts Select. You should advertise your services on TV or radio. I am glad I found you.
Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. After doing some research it sounded like the drum support rollers needed to be replaced. When disassembling the dryer, I discovered that this model is different than other Amana dryers. Do not start the disassembly with the top of the dryer. There are two front panels. You must first remove the smaller lower panel. You will find two screws close to the floor. Once you remove the screws the lower panel will come off exposing more screws. Remove those screws and the upper front panel will come off. Tilt the bottom of the panel out to clear the clips at the top. You will then see two screws attached holding down the top of the dryer with brackets. The rest of the disassembly is as described on the partselect video. I replaced the drum support rollers and also the pulley wheel and belt for good measure. I put it all back together. Rather proud of myself, I turn the dryer on. Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. Argggh! Upon closer inspection, I saw that the thumping noise was made when the seam of the drum passed over the support wheel. The seam of the drum had broken causing the metal to flex on one side and create the thumping noise. I had the drum seam welded. There is still a slight thump from the repair, but it is so much better! So if you have a thumping dryer, make sure you check out the seam on the drum as well as the support rollers.
remove front panels starting with lower panel and then the upper panel and also the screws that hold the top,lift the to and support it out of the way. removed the front drum support and reached in and took the belt off the idler pulley and then remove the drum. at this point you can get to the idler pulley and the drum support rollers. remove the snap rings and the old rollers and pulley and install the new parts in revers of removal. wrap the new belt around drum and place the drum on the rear support and reinstall the front drum support and put the belt on the same way as removed. reinstall front panels . doneSafety note: Be sure that the dryer plug and receptacle has no corrosion, mine did since the dryer is never unplugged since being installed, and after about 1/2 hr I could smell something burning and it was the plug and receptacle had melted due to a poor connection. Temp of the plug was over 160 deg. Installed new outlet and plug, all fine now
I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....
took bottom panel off of dryer which is held on by two screws,turned on dryer and could plainly see that the back left drum roller was just flopping around ordered a new one and also a new drum belt as the one that was on there was frayed. parts came in a few days later job took less than one hour very easy job for anyone with basic skills on using tools,wife is very happy
Used spackle knife to pop clips on top of dryer. Raised lid of dryer to expose belt. Next used nut driver to disassembly screws from front door and then base ( bag them. Labeled bag and marked inside of dryer with corresponding number to match hardware) disassembled dryer door latch switch and marked red + and white no marking. ( Middle connection not used) removed dryer clean out screen and then removed dryer face next removed dryer blower cover no hardware ( just lift upwards see side clips) opened up side of dryer to gain more access (spread apart manually) removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker used 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring. Next step was to removed drum rollers. . . This required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position. Next replaced belt and reassembled. Project was a success and runs like new. . . . Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130. My cost $65 + $15 tool (retaining ring pliers) $80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on parts) $80 versus $356 -- thanks parts select for saving me $276 during the christmas holiday.
Identified Problem by using silicone spray on drum bearing wheels, when noise stopped I knew bearings were bad. Removed drum per PartsSelect diagram of my dryer then removed wheels, and bearing shaft.Will need a snap ring pliers with small holes to remove snap rings. I ordered new shafts, washers,snap rings,drum wheels, and belt. Installing belt use two hands and make sure tension bar is correct review belt locations before repair. Also cleaned and vacumned inside of Dryer. Remember to unplug, I did not and when door was removed I caused a short that blew fuse, lucky that I did not damage dryer in process. Working well now with no nose.
Remove front lower panel.Remove lint exhaust plenum from dryer filter housing and exhaust fan schroud.Remove front upper panel and note the placement of the three door switch and two light wires. Remove them.Pull dryer drum forward until you can easily remove the snap ring on the drum wheel shafts.Remove the wheels, take a 5/16" nut drive and remove the mounting screws.Reverse the process to install the replacement shaft assembly and wheels.Reverse the process to re assemble the dryer.All done.
Took the dryer apart, replace parts....put back together....all is well...until I tried to put the belt back on and broke the belt tensioner. Had to put a rush on that order
Unscrew front, detach electrical, tilt back top, remove drum. remove retaining ring and glide, replace ring and guide remove old felt seal, adhere new felt seal with contact cement, remove what was left of felt pads, replace pads and new glides, reassemble.
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