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PartSelect Number PS11741913
This single drum support roller is used for square ported model clothes dryers. It has a metallic bearing in its center.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Used spackle knife to pop clips on top of dryer. Raised lid of dryer to expose belt. Next used nut driver to disassembly screws from front door and then base ( bag them. Labeled bag and marked inside of dryer with corresponding number to match hardware) disassembled dryer door latch switch and marked red + and white no marking. ( Middle connection not used) removed dryer clean out screen and then removed dryer face next removed dryer blower cover no hardware ( just lift upwards see side clips) opened up side of dryer to gain more access (spread apart manually) removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker used 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring. Next step was to removed drum rollers. . . This required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position. Next replaced belt and reassembled. Project was a success and runs like new. . . . Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130. My cost $65 + $15 tool (retaining ring pliers) $80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on parts) $80 versus $356 -- thanks parts select for saving me $276 during the christmas holiday.
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removed screws for lower panel, disconnected wires from door switch, removed front door assy, lifted top, removed drum, replaced idler shafts and rollers with fresh lube. reassembled.Sounds like new. really fast shipping, parts easily located on this website. Thanks!!!
I first removed the screws on the bottom section of the dryer. Then I removed the face/door remembering how the two wires on the dryer were hooked up. After that there are two screws that allow the top to flip up on some megshift hinges. this reveals the drum and the guts of the machine. Reaching under the drum I disconnected the belt by pulling the tension wheel down to release the pressure on the belt. Once that is done you can just pull out the drum. The rollers are on the back wall. You have to remove the lock washers on each wheel (provided you change both((I recommend)). Then the rollers just pull off. Remove the the two screws (1/4 in) . It's just a reversal from there. Always clean up all the lent/debris with a vacuum while your there. It's just a good thing to do. Thats it. good luck
Well, my husband actually did the repair . He took the cover off the dryer, then he removed the drum, removed the worn wheels, replaced with the new. Then he vaccumed out all the lint, put the dryer back together and now its working good as new. And I thought we needed to purchase a new dryer!
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer, I then removed the 2 screws on the lower cover,removed the cover, then removed the 2 screws for the door and un pluged the wires for the safet switch.and removed the door. I then removed the 4 screws that held the front durm support and removed it with the air ducting attached, I removed the 2 screws that hold the top of the dryer so that I could lift it as needed. I unhooked the belt from the tensioner and removed the belt and drum, I removed the snap rings and old rollers to give me access to the mounting bolts for the roller axels, and removed them. The drum had a flat spot from the worn out rollers that a few taps with a rubber mallet fixed. then usins the new parts reassembled the rollers, Installed the drum with a new drive belt. the bolted down the top the top, At this time I rolled the drum to make sure the belt and tensioner were ok. Then front support and ducting , the door ( remember to reattach the door safety switch wire ) and lower panel were bolted back into place. The dryer runs and sounds like new.
I had read enough online to know that the repair was to be done all through the front of the dryer.I simply unplugged the dryer first ( 220 will hurt you ) removed the front and position the tub where I could get to the rear roller supports without removing any thing else. You will need a pair of snap ring pliers to make the repair go smoothly. I replaced both rollers ( only one was bad ) positioned the tub and put everything back together. I must say I was unaware that dryers had so little to them , with a good parts supply you should be able to get 20 to 30 years service easy ?
Ordered belt first. After taking it apart, it was clear that the bushing in on of the drum supporting roller was bad. As a result, it has also worn out the shaft. I replaced the roller, roller shaft, and the belt. It is running like new now.
removed the front panels, removed the drum, then with with the ring pliers removed the worn out rollers and roller brackets and replaced with new. Vacuumed the inside and replaced the drum and panels.
The repair went just like the video that PartSelect has. I was much easier than I thought it would be. Once I got the Dryer apart I cleaned it and then installed the new parts with no issues. However I did find that the Idler arm and pulley need changing so I have ordered them. I have reassembled the Dryer and it went back together as easy as it came apart. I recommend watching the video first if you have never done this. Good Luck
With your parts and the book from the library, it was a piece of cake.
First: I read a lot of repair stories on PartSelect.com, as well as on other sites.Removed 2 screws and took off lower panel. I turned the drum by hand, and identified the left/rear roller to be the squeaking part. Removed the 2 screws that held the door panel, removed it, and enjoyed the fireworks!!!, because I had neglected to unplug the dryer first. The door switch was ruined, but I was thankful that no bodily injury or severe property damage happened.While I was shining the flashlight toward the back/underside of the dryer, my dear wife noticed light inside the drum.Ordered a new new door switch, roller axle, roller and rear felt cylnder seal...all arrived in 3 days.Decided to replace the front felt seal too, and bought it at a local shop, along with the adhesive, which I couldn't find at PartSelect.com for less than $32.Took the front drum panel, belt, drum and bulkhead panels off per advice at this site.Replaced switch, but had to crimp on a new spade connector (included with the switch).Cleaned off old felt seal adhesive with Goof-Off, and glued on the new seals.Replaced the real axle and wheel, with a little added lithium grease.Cleaned out the dirt in the dryer cabinet, and put everything back together with my wife's help and her keen common sense.The dryer is much quieter, and dries faster thanks to the new seals.The repair was straightforward, but I rated it "a bit difficult" because of the amount of taking-apart and rebuilding that I decided to do.
disassembled found bunch of worn out parts . I went to website wich was very helpful found all . my worn out parts online. dryer is very quiet now I wish i would have done it sooner.P.S. going to fix my dads dryer next. thank you
I unplugged the dryer, disassembled the front panels and blower intake assy, then pulled the drum out far enough from the back seal to access the drum rollers and roller brackets. The toughest part was getting the "c" rings off the shaft ends. I used needle nose pliers and put them in the gap between the ends and then spread the pliers open. Once I did that, the rings started to come off the shaft. I then was able to get the needle nose pliers to grab the rings and pull them off. Once off I was able to remove the rollers and remove the roller brackes with a 5/16" socket wrench. Putting them all back together was a cinch and the reassembly took no time at all. Though one of the drum rollers was wearing badly, the screeching noise was due to a bad belt idler assembly which I had to replace (along with the belt) after that order came in. A little machine oil helped to temporarily silence the idler wheel (lasted about 3 loads).
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