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PartSelect Number PS11741848
This idler shaft retaining ring is well under an inch long and is made of metal.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and found my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together. I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.
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Note: You may want to consider replacing the 2 Drum Support rollers at this time (while your in there)1. UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FIRST.2. Using a phillips head screw driver - Remove 2 screws that secure the dryer door hinges to the frame, Lift door very slightly to unhook hinges and pull out door with hinges attached as straight as possible, set aside. Remove the 2 plastic tabs from the opposing side of the door hinge also secured by screws.3. Remove the front panel (panel is shaped like a football goal post) by tilting out the top ends of the front panel toward you, then lift up to remove panel from the bottom metal retaining tabs.4. Remove the 2 hexhead screws from the 2 retaining clips (security hooks) that secure the top of the dryer closed.5. Systematically remove the hexhead screws from the rest of the front of "shroud" (it holds (suspends) the drum in place between the front and back of the dryer).*** I didn't disconnect any wires, I carefully swung out each piece that had wires attached, propped up those parts vertically ensuring no strain on the attached wires. Others may want to disconnect wires to avoid breaking or damaging them.6. Vacuum out any dust/lint that may be present.7. Draw a quick diagram of how the underside of the belt is threaded on the idler pulley and motor pully first. Release the tension of the belt from the underside of the drum. The easiest way is to push the idler pulley arm away from the belt and slide off the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley. Slide the drum out.8. Remove the hexhead screw from the bottom of the idler arm. Disconnect from retaining spring.9. You may only need to replace just the Idler Pulley Wheel. I recommend replacing as a "unit" the Idler Pulley Wheel, Idler Arm, Ring-E and Idler Shaft Washer(s) - then you can just swap out the old one for the new one.10. Reassemble(When reassembling the belt - place around drum first and slide drum in place. Now from the underside-place (drape) belt around the motor pulley (it will be very loose) Now push the idler pulley arm toward the motor pulley, engage the left side of the belt around the idler pulley and slowly allow idler pulley to increase its tension on the belt) You can test manually by rotating the drum by hand to ensure proper movement.)
Took off face of dryer (two lower screws below door in front) and then removed the drum which gave me access to the idler arm and idler pully. Vaccumed the interior to remove dust and lint. Replaced idler arm and idler pulley assembly. Replace old belt as drum was reinstalled. Opened rear access panel to complete final routing of the new belt over idler pulley and drive motor. Turned the machine on to check repairs and function. Closed rear access door. Pushed dryer back into place and re-leveled machine.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
I did it exactly the way the video showed it. I thought I would have to take it out to the pole barn and spend 5-6 hours on it. Because of the excellent video, it was much easier than I thougt it would be.
Removed idler arm,& pulley wheel, then re-installed.
Removed the door and front sub-assy. Opened the top. Removed the drum and belt.Removed the arm assembly and replaced with new parts. Reassembled in the reverse order and my wife is now happy with her QUIET dryer.
I won't get into too much of the tear down, as others have already given, in great detail, that information. I will say if I had not read the other repair information, I would not have known to replace the tensioner wheel, otherwise called the Idler pulley wheel and bearing. After using some machine oil to grease the shaft, I replaced the Idler Pulley wheel and the belt, and rebuilt the dryer. Runs as good as new.
Took the two screws out of the front of the dryer. Tilted the bottom out until the clips in the top came loose. Disconnected the door switch and put the front panel aside. Removed 4 screws holding front drum support in place using small socket set. Pulled drum support off and set aside. Took note of how the belt ran through the idler pulley, pulled up idler pulley until the belt slipped off idler and motor pulley. Drum pulls straight out of dryer. With the drum out there is plenty of room to get to the screw holding the idler pulley arm in place, remove it so you can pull the old pulley and washers off shaft. Reassemble using new parts and reattach idler arm. Put the drum back in place, wrap new belt around drum (non groove side against drum), thread the belt around the motor shaft and work it back around the idler pulley. This was the hardest part of the job since your working in tight quarters and you can only fell what your doing.One the belt is in place, rotate the drum by hand to make sure the belt tracks properly. Finish cleaning up any dust accumulation inside the dryer/fan assembly. Reattach the front drum support, reattach the door switch wires and reassemble the front panel by tilting the panel until the top catches, swing down into place and attach bottom with the two screws. Done!
1) Took off the front door of the drier (first unscrewed it in the sides, then lifted the door to lift the hinges up and pulled the door off)2) Pulled the front panel down and off3) I checked the belt to see if it was broken and it wasn't4) I tried to turn the drier barrel manually to see if I can move the belt... it didn't move. Not knowing if there was just too much resistance, I tested the drier while looking at the motor and motor pulley as it ran.5) I noticed that the motor pinion rotated, but the belt was slipping against it... that's why it smelled. The rubber was burning6) Then I found that the idler pulley had stopped rotating, and the belt actually cut a channel into part of the plastic... That's when I realized that I had to replace at least the idler pulley.7) Not knowing whether the bushing and other parts were going to be salvageable, I ordered parts for the whole assembly... but I wasn't sure how to best approach the repair...8) Then I found partselect.com, and they had both diagrams of the assembly, all the parts easy to order, and best of all, a video of someone actually going through this repair! I was dumbfounded! :)9) For swapping the parts I just watched the video on how to pull out the drier barrel... the only difference is that I didn't see a need to unplug the cables from the front top panel before removing the drier tumbler. (Obviously the power was turned off :P)10) when I removed the barrel, I swapped the whole idler pulley assembly, just keeping the original spring.11) Put everything back together, and it ran like a champ!The video helped me save a lot of time though... it showed me how the whole thing is most easily serviced and made the repair a breeze!
disassembled dryer and removed and replaced rollers and shafts and installed new belt while i was at it. very easy fix, ordered parts from PARTS ELECT.COM , excellent website with great views of my machine made it east to order correct parts.very fast delivery , will use partselect again! HIGHLY RECOMMEND
Did an on-line search on Matag dis-assembly, pulled front panel, dryer drum, replaced idler pulley, rollers and belt. Also, vacuumed dryer cabinet , now the dryer works like new. This is an easy repair for anyone with any mechanical ability, and just basic tools.
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