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PartSelect Number PS11741802
This part aids in the spinning or agitating cycles.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The pump was very easy to replace (3) screws, easy to reach with front panel off. (Less than 5 minut job. The brake assembly and thrust bearing was a little harder to do, but not bad at all. I found it best to flip the unit upside down to do the brake assembly. Replaced #10-24 x 1/2" screws with 2" long ones. Remember to do this (1) at a time, then back all (6) off a little at a time to release tesion on the 200lb spring. Swap out parts and tighten back down with 2" screws and then swap them back out for the 1/2" ones (1) at a time. I tipped the unit back on its side to install the bearing & pully kit. This takes some of the weight off of the main shaft allowing you to insert the spacers and split ring. The replacement parts seem to be of eqal or better quality to the originals. Machine runs quiet and smooth.
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It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit. Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top * unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine * tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center * lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop * remove the auger * remove the white top from the tub * remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub * now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers. * remove the tub3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down * remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws * remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws * now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw * remove the brake guts and replace with new4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew5) re-assembly is opposite of removal* * the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washerMy machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!03-2011
First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.
I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring. When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.
By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.
Removed excess water,removed hoses,tiped back washer,removed belt,removed pulley and bearing. Removed 3 screws and replaced with 3 longer screws in the stator,then removed 3 shorter screws. Then loosen very slowly each of longer screws to relieve pressure from the brake spring. Once loose,pulled out brake rotor. Replaced with new parts. Works like new.
The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.
Tried to remove brake stator with machine tilted back. Thisforced the stator off center. Removed the 6 holddown springs, water level hose and drain hose. Pull drum & transmission out of the case. Placed the drun on the ground, brake facing up. Replaced the short screws on the brake stator with 2" screws one at a time. Caution the spring has 200 lbs of force. Used 2" screws to back off spring. With spring tenshion released replace parts. Reversed proceedurer. Machine quite. Wife is happy.
Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.
first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy
I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:1. Unplug washer.2. Move unit away from wall.3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber.4. Pull out cap (#58)5. Remove ring clip (#57)6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation.7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store.8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52. 9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws.10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring.11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out.12. Clean or replace what you need.13. Do the reverse to put everything back.14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.
For this repair the tub must stay centered in the machine. I used a shim between the tub and front panel. Tilt the front of the washing maching aginst a wall and brace if needed. Remove the belt and pully. To remove the stator, I replaced 3 of the 6 bolts with a 2" long bolt of the same thread (replace every other bolt). This is needed because the spring is under 100# pressure. Remove the 3 original blots and than the 3 2" bolts. Remove each of these three a little at a time. Install the new stator and brake rotor. Use the 2" bolts in the stator to compress the spring. Reinstall the the other 3 bolts, pully, and belt.
remove top and front panel to access wash drum. unhooked suspension/balance springs(6).also removed drive belt. removed half of brake bolts installed 3 1-inch bolts removed 3 remaining short bolts,then 3longer bolts to remove tension of brake spring. removed/dissassembled brake and snubber ring,then reassembled in reverse order. wish i would have replaced suspension springs at same time! ordered new springs today
After new belt, load dry bearing sound in spin cycle and brake squeal. Videos were very helpful, but limited. Thinking with new belt pulling pressure, it had to be bearings. Top bearing I was worried of possible water seal being disturbed ? 1 * Not so, the big top bearing sits alone under brake housing, but spent most time prying off with a wheel puller. Need like 10inch reach for puller. Has a plastic housing around it, that you have to pry on, but no damage seemed evident when done. This was the worse part ! 2 * Pulled springs, (with vise grips) water level hose,(fingers) and pump hose,(pliers and twist to free) removed motor (two 1/2 inch bolts and wires), then v belt. Tub/transmission all pulled out easy with front cover removed already. 3* Inverted, pop plastic cover, pry spring clip with screwdriver,(a little stubborn) and pulley pulls out easy. Now look good at the pulley inner part, it has to be adjusted when done, and instructions are not that clear. So here I will try to give a better clue. The instruction sheet shows the outer ring part with small inner space to tabs, and a bigger space to tabs. The larger 2/3 tab swing space is the control setting area.. Inner part swings left and right around to the tabs, A small 1/3 area, and bigger 2/3 area. Looking at the large side, the outer ring has two exterior raised notch of plastic. If you twist the pulley CW looking down, until it hits the first left tab, this would be the start point for adjusting. Instructions state, the first outer notch is the "MIN" point, and the next notch (about an inch away) is the "MAX" point. When reassembling and WITH the washer &clip in the groove (use the old one and just push one side into the goove to temporary hold center shaft in place) Key is the pulley has to be turned CW, and needs the clip to hold shaft, as pressure is put on the lower brake spring. OK, clip holding, CW turn pulley until the left tab stop is hit, now slowly turn pulley CCW and watch when the shaft starts turning. Plastic inner part has a 3-d arrow formed in it close to the first exterior notch. Setting is to turn the CCW direction with the arrow moving in between the MIN /Max outer notch, before the shaft start to turn. Ideally in the middle of the two exterior notches. Instructions state this, but never said the clip had to be in place ! What happens is CW releases the brake spring for the brake on, CCW applies preasure to unlock the brake, and that should be about the middle of the notches on outer side of ring, when the shaft starts to turn. Two washers are with pulley/bearing kit, one is used depending oh where the middle arrow starts to turn shaft. Apply the grease as instructed. 4 * Brake use of three 10/24 bolts worked well, described by other reviews. Spring is 200 lb. rating, so an adult can push down for most of the movement. The screw turned out easy, and reassembly by pushing down some pressure and screwing in faster saves time. It is the distance of about 1.5x oem screw size that the spring preasure gets hard, so then just keep turning the screws 2-4 turns each, to press back into place. First brake cover plate was totally glazed at brake pad area. I replaced it, but could have possible just sanded it some. Next lower brake pad disc, showed lots of brake pad, Replaced it to since I bought the parts, but maybe just sanding a little would have been good too. 5 * If you pull the two brake parts out, underneath is the upper bearing that was the hard thing to pull off. Start Access by removing the three screws under the brake, and then the outer metal ring support screws.( set of three/two screws. 9/16 inch). Pull cover off and here is the big top bearing with the plastic support housing under it, with no room to move it away. A couple drops of oil in the inner ring, and wheel puller use, the bearing started to slide off easy abut half way off. 6 * All this done and my snubber ring was showing wear, so good idea I bought the new snubber ring and all six tub springs. 7 * Tub springs are a little tough, vise grips, wiggle yourself into position, and do the rear ones first. My washer had all the springs inserted CCW position, spring inserted into base on left side hole that is oval. A little grease on spring bottom loop as per video. 8 * Long story, easy two hours plus, but took my time, brake squeal is gone, tub seems a little less wobble in spin cycle, but still sounds like a dry bearing ! Now starting to think it is the motor bearings just transmitting the sound up the tub like a megaphone ? OEM bearings did not seem worn enough to be an issue. Top bearing is a standard ball bearing, and lower bearing is a thrust roller bearing. Parts so far cost almost half the price of a new washer ! Best of luck, tried to clear up some "what issues" !
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