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PartSelect Number PS11741759
This seal comes with the adhesive backing.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Great! Spent about $36.00 and I ended up with a overhauled dryer. I ended up cleaning the whole thing out, it's amazing how much stuff accummulates in the frame of a dryer, I also found about $2.00 in change. It's a good idea to clean out a dryer every few years and the broken belt forced me to do it. But anyway the parts cam very quick and had easy to follow directions. I would reccomend part select. Matt
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replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.
removed frt & rear panels & drum and lint chute for seal replacement replaced these components, problem didn't go away, ordered & replaced both gas valve coils (m series coil kit) problem solved
Used this resource and others' advice -thank you . Make sure to disconnect power first. I had replaced the rollers and tensioner a week earlier due to squeaking, but mine was the rare one where squeaking meant motor failure, so I had to place another parts order. The dryer was 19 years old, and my blower wheel did not simply 'unscrew with reverse threads'. During removal the blower wheel's plastic deformed, so had to do like someone else did and cut the rear shaft with a reciprocating saw. Just be careful not to damage the bulkhead's built-in bracket that anchors the rear of the motor. I think it was a 13/16" wrench that fit the blower wheel and I forget the size for the pulley nut on the front of the motor, but I suggest a deep socket since it held well. My best advice when dealing with a motor replacement is to ensure the blower wheel wheel will separate successfully from the motor before placing your parts order should it be a stubborn removal. Good luck.
I took the long way around and removed the back with the nutdriver (8mm), unscrewed the lint catcher from the top and back (phillips). From there, I reached around and unscrewed the support brackets (9/16"). Once I confirmed the problem, I ordered the parts. There was really nothing wrong with the belt or pulley, but considering its age, I figured it was easier to replace now while I already had it apart.Once I received the parts (about 3 days), I removed the front of the dryer by popping the top of the cabinet off, and the kick plate at the bottom with a flat screwdriver. Then, I removed the two screws holding up the door at the bottom, and the two holding it from the inside top. Once the front came off, I removed the idler pulley from the bottom, and the drum fell out. I was left with an empty cabinet with the exception of the motor.I replaced the tri-rings on the support shafts, which was the most time consuming part of the whole ordeal. Those buggers are tight. I ratcheted the support brackets back on , removed the belt from around the drum and replaced it with the new one. I added the idler pulley back in, placed the drum against the back, and hooked the belt back around the motor. I also replaced the lint seal that goes from the drum to the catcher before putting it all back together.I wish all machines were as easy as this dryer to repair.
I went on partsselect.com's web site, punched in the model number and easily found the parts I needed. Parts arrived in two days. Repairs went well, especially when my wife was my tool assistant! I recommend this site as a must for do it yourself repairs that will save you a lot of money.
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