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PartSelect Number PS11741732
The burner head cap with spark electrode directs the gas to the front and back burner heads and will equally distribute the gas across cooking areas. This part can help the following symptoms: if your oven will not start, element will not heat, the gas ignitor does not light, and/or gas spreads a smell. Make sure to rotate the burner assembly clockwise to release the burner from the top. Please note: this part has been updated and the gasket seal is no longer required. Make sure to unplug the oven before installing this part and wear work gloves to protect your hands.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
There were no flames when I turned the oven on, so the first thing I did was narrow down the problem through the process of elimination. It was really a fairly simple system to work on. I verified that it was getting power to the hot surface igniter (which it was). You can check this visibly by seeing if it heats up and glows, but that is not enough. You also have to make sure the igniter is drawing enough amps to open the oven safety valve ( about 3-3.5 amps). You do this by leaving everything connected and turning the oven on as normal. You clamp the Amp Meter (a clamp style Amp Meter works best)to the wires going into the Hot Surface Igniter and checking amperage. If the amperage is to low then the igniter is not pulling enough to open the valve and you should replace it. If the amperage is as it should be then the valve is not opening. The next thing is to turn off the gas to the appliance and unplug the electricity before starting any other work. I removed the oven racks and bottom decking out of the way so I would have room to work. I removed the oven burner to get to the oven safety valve, which is held in by two screws. I disconnected the gas line coming in to the valve using an adjustable wrench, removed the two wires (noting their position) and removed the two screws with a phillips head screwdriver. I replaced the valve with a new one and hooked everything back up in reverse order. That was all there was to it. I also replaced a couple of burners on the top of the stove while I was at it, only because they were difficult to light sometimes. They simply twist out counterclockwise and have two wires that you can't get confused because they have different size connectors and will only go on one way. This 10 year old stove now works like a new one.
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Make a quarter turn counterclockwise, disengage a burner head, disconnect 2 wires, connect to a new head, install turn clockwise.That's it!
unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.
I first had to cut off electrical power to the stove top and then remove a little built up grease around the seams where the parts fit together. I then removed the burner head by twisting about 30 degrees and lifting. I then disconnected the spark ignighter wire, ( a slide on spade). This exposed the two screws that hold the drip pan in place. I had to use a drill to remove the screws on the two front burners because they were so rusty, just a minor problem. I then removed the drip pan. Cleaned a few years of buildup cooking splashes next, then installed new seal tape for gaskets and reversed the process. $250 in parts and 30 minutes work saved buying a $1300 cook top,
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