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PartSelect Number PS11741460
This part is a one-time use thermal fuse which attaches to the blower wheel housing of your clothes dryer. It cannot be re-set and must be replaced when continuity between the pins is no longer present. Terminal size is 3/16".
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
First removed front and drum to check gas valve and igniter. No gas, no ignition. Checked power to devices; none (check hot line to ground, not to neutral.). Removed back of control panel looking for a relay or something. Found none, but did find a wiring diagram. That is where the site really came in handy. Studied wiring diagram together with the exploded view and pictures of each part to come up with a troubleshooting plan. Took the back off as well as a cover inside. Tested each part with meter, again going to ground and not across the device. Of course, the final device before the gas valve, a one time thermal fuse, was the bad part. At first assumed just a bad part. Later wondered if fuse did it's job and another part was bad. Ordered and installed new thermostat just in case. Put everything together after a complete cleaning and everything is fine so far. Not a particularly hard job because I had the wiring diagram and access to parts select site. Would have been much harder without them. Took a long time because almost the entire dryer had to come apart. But it got a good cleaning because of it and found a couple of bucks in change to help offset the cost. Can't imagine what a service call would have cost.
Repair was very easy. We are in the internet age so I use it all the time to get info on how to repair any thing in the house including cars. This time it was my dryer. I typed up 'Kitchen Aid dryer has not heat'and pressed searched and PartSelect came up. Typed in the model number and looked up the comments on No Heat. They had pretty cool site that shows videos on how to repair this things too. Came to conlclusion that the THERMAL FUSE was the main problem. Ordered it and as well as the Igniter assy just to make sure and as well as save on the shipping just in case. Ordered on Sunday night and the shipped the next day. It arrived on Tuesday. Unfortunately had a little problem on the shipment. Called PartSelect and they are so awesome they shipped me new parts asap at no extra charge. Awesome Awesome! Parts came in Thursday and first installed the Thermal Fuse and BAAAM! problem solved. Did not need the igniter assembly. Now I have an extra part in storage. To replace the Thermal fuse.1. Disconnect Dryer from power outlet. Remove the bolts on the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I used power drill because it is much faster.2. Locate the Thermal Fuse. Disconnect wires and remove the bolt. Slide it up and pull. Install the new one and reconnect the wires. Replace the panel and plug the dryer. That solved my problem. It should solve yours too. The whole process was less than five minutes.
Followed electrical drawing from switch to motor, Thermal fuse was in the line and no power coming through it, removed wire and put together and tested, dryer turned on. Read statements from others at parts select and also bought thermostat because time stopped working last year. Installed both parts and cleaned dryer, works perfect including timer.
I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!
I first unplugged the electrical plug, then opened up the dryer, front and back. Once I had diagnosed the problem I unscrewed the thermal fuses and thermostat. Marked which color wire went to which connector and continued to replace one wire at a time. Re-attached the mounting screws, verified all wires were connected, plugged in dryer to test heat cycle. Once the dryer worked correctly I vacuumed all lint and covered it up.
When my dryer suddenly stopped functioning, without any prior signs of pending failure, I guessed that it had to be something simple, like a fuse. I did a google search and stumbled across a forum post that described the symptoms (wouldn't turn on), and the poster said that Whirlpool recommends replacing the thermostat whenever the fuse is replaced. The reason for this is that the likely cause of the fuse burning is that the thermostat is no longer properly regulating the temperature range of the heating element. I disconnected the power source, and then I removed the back cover, and both parts were in plain view, so I simply replaced the wires one by one.
I spent nearly an hour trying to self-diagnose the problem before I wised up and found PartSelect.com. After reading just a couple of postings I went back and tested the thermal fuse. It was bad. Other posts suggested I replace the thermostat at the same time, so I ordered both. The parts arrived within three days and the actual repair took less than 10 minutes.
First, I replaced the heating element which was super easy but I still didn't have heat - frustrating! I then ordered the thermal cut-off kit and thermal fuse. I replaced the thermal fuse and still no heat. Then, I took one of the fuses from the kit and replaced that and finally got heat. There was another fuse in this kit that I still don't know where it goes but right now I don't need it. Had I known (by a volt tester) this would have been super easy to fix, but I didn't have one so it was trial and error. I did find out, however, that if the heating element goes it usually takes the fuse with it. The fuse I replaced (that finally gave me heat) was located in the casing just above the element. I hope this helps!
Popped open rear access panel and logged on to website. Performed search for "dryer not heating" and came across helpful tips and ordered all components pertaining to heating system and removed and replaced them. Working better than better and saved myself hundreds of dollars. Highly recommend for those "do it yourselfers"!
After 30 miutes of research on this website I felt confident to investigate the problem. Removal of the back cover is straightforward. Initially I did not appreciate and obstruction of the ductwork exitting the dryer. I bypassed the thermal fuse by removing the wires and temporarily taping them together and heat was restored. Knowing flow was OK exitting the dryer I investigated flow from the lint trap to the blower motor which is where the problem was located. In our case the lint filter was torn allowing many small objects and lint to near completely clog the pathway between the lint trap and the blower motor. It was difficult to appreaciate how obstructed that pathway was without removing the entire channel from the machine which was simple and required removing two screws at the lint trap opening followed by 3-4 screws on the back of the channel. Once removed, it was easy to appreaciate the debris clogging the channel and was easy to clean with a hose and running water. Replacement was a snap. The parts were oredered and sent in a day. I prophylactically replaced thermastats based upon a recommendation from another website. Replacing previous parts with new parts was a snap. Out the door we were up and running for around $100 (including new thermostats). The dryer repair man may go the way of the dinosaur.
After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.
Well - I'd taken my clothes out of the dryer and put them on the pool table and went upstairs to go to bed. I thought at last moment to go pee first and ran back down stairs. Downstairs I smelled the odor of burning lint. When I looked into the laundry room, my dryer was glowing red hot - Sweet! It seems that the heating element was staying on even though the dryer was off. I looked in the various descriptions of myriad failures of dryers and didn't find that one in the documentation at all. So - I replaced the thermal fuse, the Thermal cut-off and the timer. Alas - the replacement timer had to be replaced because the clock motor was defective. When the second replacement timer arrived, it was quickly installed. Long story short - if the timer is in any play mode, the heating element stay on full blast - not low, not medium, but full on chub - and this is whether the fan or tumbler are on or not, door open or not. And so the mystery anomaly remains un-repaired, unresolved and perhaps even, undiagnosed. Note - the new Thermal Cut Off does not cut off anything even when it cookin red hot. Strange.
My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.
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