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PartSelect Number PS11741460
This part is a one-time use thermal fuse which attaches to the blower wheel housing of your clothes dryer. It cannot be re-set and must be replaced when continuity between the pins is no longer present. Terminal size is 3/16".
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Unplug the dryer first. The igniter was located behind the front panel. On My gas dryer I had to remove 2 screws locacted by the lint screen to lift the top up then 2 screws were removed to lift and remove front panel. Note carefully disconect safety switch wire connecter first. After that there is 1 wire connecter and 2 screws to remove and replace ignitor. Note My ignitor was not bad just old. The thermal fuse on this model requires a little work to replace it. The back panel has to be removed. At least 9 screws hold it on and the vent hose is attached inside of the panel with a hose clamp. Once all that is clear all that remains is to unplug wires and remove 1 screw to replace thermal fuse. Note fuse failed because of lint droping from lint screen to the fan then geting stuck on the fuse screw to overheat and burn out fuse. I vacumed out all lint and dust front to back and also removed the fan cover to clean fan out There was alot of lint packed behind the cover. Then carefully assemble the fan cover - vent tube and back cover. Note this dryer has run for 16 years with no cleaning at all other than lint screen after drying clothes and no other problems so far.
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Read the info' about the possible causes, checked out the Thermal fuse with a multimeter found it had blown. Cleared out debris from the blower wheel and ducting, replaced the themostats and fuse. Dryer started up....should be good for another 5 years!
Replaced thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. Replacing both took less than 15 minutes. Dryer fired right up after that.
Ordered all of the thermostats and fuses. Unplugged appliance. Removed back panel. Replaced all items, still did not heat. I removed the 2 screws from the filter housing, and lifted the top. I disconnected the door sensor. I removed the 2 5/16" retaining bolts and removed the front cover, supported the drum and discovered a loose connection on the harness that connects to the drum motor. (Engineered not to heat up unless everything else is functional, including drum rotation.) I reestablished a good connection and buttonned her back up. Now i have spare thermostats.
I had originally thought it was the on/off switch but after I changed that out, it still would not start. So, figured it was a fuse, so took the back off the dryer, found the thermal fuse, removed it, ordered new one from partselect.com, had it in 3 dys. Hooked the wires to the fuse,(really need to note which one goes where) attached fuse to the metal, screwed the back to the dryer back on and presto! hit the start button and we were back in business! Of course, it's always a good idea to clean out your dryer so I cleaned all the lint out while the back was off. This was SUPER easy and fully appreciate this website. Could have cost me $85 flat just to have tech come look @ the dryer! Thank you very much!
I read the repair stories on PartSelect.com and decided to buy the thermostat, fuse, and heating element so I was sure to fix whatever the problem was on the first try. I replaced the thermostat fuse and hi-heat thermostat before finding the heating element was broken. I replaced it and even with my 4 and 6 year old helpers, was finished in 20 minutes. Thanks to the PartSelect schematic, I knew what I was looking for and it was as easy as in the picture. I saved time and money thanks to PartSelect.com and other user comments on the site.
I removed the back panel with a 1/4" nut driver andreplaced the thermal fuse in the same manner since it was held in by another 1/4" sheet metal screw attached to the internal vent.The fuse is easy since you just pull the wires with minature plugs off and replace in the same way. I then replaced the back panel, plugged the unit back in and Presto! I had a working gas dryer again.One piece of advice, check the thermal fuse firstif you have no heat. That because it is the easist part to repair and most likely the culprit. One more thing is to keep the lint filter clean at all times! That might prevent this type of failure from ever happening.
Followed the simple directions provided. Suggest dis-assembling the dryer before ordering the parts as it was then I discovered that the idler wheel was bad and the belt was cracking. The idler wheels should be replaced in pairs. When the unit is dis-assembled is an excellent opportunity to vacuum out the lint from all of the interior areas of the dryer. The new motor wiring was different from the old motor. The instructions should be more clear as the old motor wires were not marked. There were two red wires and two black wires in the motor wire harness. Since I have prior experience with motors I was be to determine which of the red and black wires were the primary power leads - someone with less experience may have a problem with this. Suggest changing one wire at a time and install the motor in the motor mount until the wires have been installed.
Removed & Replaced heating element, thermostat, thermal fuse, and walla, it's done. Just Three bolts to remove. Less than fifteen minutes work!! Works great!!
It was very simple, I followed the instructions from your video. It also gave me the opportunity to vac out the unit which had not been done for some time. I plan on changing the igniter at a future date, making things new in that area. To be able to do it myself saved me a lot of money.
Dryer ran but no heat. 1st thing I assumed was a bad glow plug. Mistake, after 2 hrs taking apart the front of the dryer(Drum,Belt,Whole front) and tested the voltage to glow plug was 0. I went to parts select and determined that the thermal fuse was bad. Replaced it along with the t-stat and over-limit switch. Worked great! Next time I will go to this web site BEFORE I assume anything. whole repair was less then $60.00 Very fast shipping and 2 weeks later the dryer is still working. Advice to everyone, replace all 3 items to play it safe not just the thermal fuse!
I read previous posts and figured that the Thermal Fuse, Cycling Thermostat, Secondary Coil Gas Valve, and Two Terminal Coil Gas Valve added up to about 74% probability for fixing the problem. Well, bingo!! Problem solved replacing the above parts. Didn't want to waste time starting with the cheapest thing and then moving on. With a family of five we need laundry capacity almost daily.Took barely more than 1 hr. to take it apart and replace the parts and put back together. The instructional video made all the difference in the world. Very very easy. The trickiest part was the clamp holding down the two coils on the gas valve. There was limited space to get the screwdriver on the screws due to the drum being in the way. Put a screwdriver bit from my cordless screwgun in a socket and was able to get the job done. Thank you part select!!! Total repair was barely over $100 including shipping and did it on my own time without having to set up a time for a repair guy.
I first went to your website and searched by category the symptom of my clothes dryer, "Dryer would not start." Your site is EXCELLENT! I quickly determined the 5 potential causes. I then found the owner's manual and located where the likely broken parts are within my machine. Armed with that knowledge, a nut driver and a volt meter, I pushed the dryer back from the wall and removed the sheet metal back. Bingo! My volt meter proved that the thermal fuse was blown. I also confirmed my Push to Start Switch was bad with my volt meter. I ordered both parts on line on a Friday night and I plug them in on a Tuesday night. My wife was so impressed with my appliance repair that she told her family and friends. It was a wonderful thing to replace two $15 components and not have to purchase a new $500 dryer!
Symptoms: No heat from clothes dryer. It would run continuously, and the dryer burner would not light. A little reading and I found out the timer doesn't start until heat is detected. That's why it will run forever without heat.Ordered a Thermal Fuse, Cycling Thermostat, and Igniter Kit. Turns out it was the thermal fuse. Confirmed with my multimeter continuity check. No idea why it went, it was only 13 years old. No clogs in dyer vent but cleaned it to be sure. Possibly the thermostat was going a bit high over time, so I replaced it too. Only need to remove the back panel to replace these. Dryer works great now. 1 week later the washer broke, so I'll be ordering more parts.
Man,I thought you'd never ask!!!! I've been bragging about your site since I fixed my own dryer. I was so happy to find the part, but absolutely thrilled to have a video too on how to install it step by step. And the repairman on the video was safety conscious too and made it simple. Naturally, I was super happy with the cost of the part ($10.43) and the S&H was faster than expected! It would have cost me $99.00 just for a service man to come to my house and then charge me the parts and labor on top of that - who knows? I was thinking about just buying a new dryer when repairs start to cost over $100...you wonder. I fixed it within 30 minutes, and the extra time was only because I had to vacuum behind my dryer. I only vacuum behind the dryer every 10 years whether it needs it or not! (just kidding!) Thank you so much for existing - I will ALWAYS come here to see how I can repair things within my abilities. I told my dad that I fixed my own dryer and he said, "I'm proud of you!" He fixes everything and I watched him for years about the house fixing stuff. I'm my father's DAUGHTER!
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