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PartSelect Number PS11741460
This part is a one-time use thermal fuse which attaches to the blower wheel housing of your clothes dryer. It cannot be re-set and must be replaced when continuity between the pins is no longer present. Terminal size is 3/16".
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Found multiple videos on how to diagnose the problem. Parts plus showed me that over 50% of the time the problem was the thermal fuse. I put a jumper wire between the two connections on the thermal fuse to see if the dryer would fire up. Sure enough it did. Bought the $10 thermal fuse and changed it in less than 15 min.
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Were these instructions helpful?
Unplugged the unit from power, took the back panel off the dryer, replaced the parts, vacuumed the inside of the dryer for dust and lint, replaced the back panel and, and plugged the power in.
The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.
Went to the web site and described the problem along with the model number. This site had great information, videos, and likely culprits. I tested the most likely problem, and it was bad. I followed the video and it was fixed. This site is amazing. Has saved me lots of time and money. They helped me fix my washer previously. I highly recommend this site
Accessed and removed the rear panel. I replaced the three electrical components with a nut driver and reattached the rear panel. The fix worked, so I have not yet replaced the gas coil sensors at the front of the dryer. The dryer is 19 years old, so the electrical connectors were pretty tight. I used needle nose pliers to pull the connectors free and prevent any damage to the wires. Good Luck.
Gas Dryer, bought used over ten years ago. Timer not advancing, so I came to the site to check prices on a timer. Looked at troubleshooting guide and determined problem was most likely thermal fuse and not timer. Because thermostat was also suggested as potential problem, I bought that also. Figured it was cheap enough that since I had to go through aggravation of pulling dryer out, I only wanted to do it once,Pulled dryer out and unplugged it. Turn off gas valve, dis connect gas line at dryer with crescent wrench. Pull back panel using screw driver. Replace both parts. Clean lint from dryer, sweep area behind dryer and reassemble. About 40 minutes. Tested dryer, could feel heat, so A-ok. But, not really. Timer still not advancing, heat erratic. So, ordered coil kit. Unplug dryer. Remove 2 short phillips screws under lint trap door , pry top up. 2 screws removed with nut driver, lift front up and off. I can see coils readily accessible on bottom left. Using stubby phillips screwdriver, remove and replace coils. Clean lint, reassemble. Dryer works great, and repair was actually easier than anticipated after watching video. Close call, because wife as naggin' for new dryer. If the coil kit didn't work, I would have lost the argument!
I replaced the Thermostat, heating element and thermal fuse. Took 30 minutes and dryer is working fine
After visiting your web site, and reading about what components might have failed for this problem, I decided to look first at the Thermal Fuse, which I easily located after watching your video. It was open when I checked in with the multi meter. I ordered the replacement part which I received in 2 days, installed and put the dryer back together in 15 to 30 minutes. It worked like a charm and I figure saved me about $200.00 in repair cost or the higher price of a new dryer. I am a reasonably good do-it-yourselfer and I am so happy to have found this web site, it is great.
I had used this site previously to fix my dishwasher. So, I checked the website and it indicated that the likely cause of the problem was the thermal fuse had blown. I ordered the replacement part, and to prepare for its arrival, removed the back of the dryer and put a volt meter on the thermal fuse - there was no continuity, so I knew this was the problem. When the part arrived, the back was already off the dryer, and it took a couple of minutes to install the part, and a lot longer - 10 minutes - to put the back on the dryer. The video(s) was all I needed to identify the problem, and fix it myself - with a savings of around $150.
This dryer is a commercial model and the instructions from the site isn't 100% accurate. To replace the thermal fuse and coils, you have to remove the bottom panel in front of the dryer. There two metal clips in the bottom that need to removed to pull out the panel. Once removed, removed the lint metal housing and lint catcher to access the thermal fuse. You will also see the coil pack to the right. Use a nut driver for the lint housing and right angle Philip screwdriver for the coil pack. Clean out the lint housing before reinstalled the cover.
pull the plug, rem the back cover 6 screws, rem two screws in heater element attached three wires with one sensor replace cover. Very simple fix.. Although not recommended if you have the dryer on with cover removed you can easily test voltage going to the element and it will not come on. Makes it certain the element has failed. You do have to be very careful to not touch anything electrical this way or you will get shocked.
removed the back panel as described in the tutorial. then removed the two parts as the repairman described, it took maybe 10 minutes beginning to end. Dryer works like a charm now.
Very simple repair, and we're not handy at all. I cleaned out the dryer lint with a vacuum. Then we watched the partselect video on how to replace a thermal fuse. Husband used a nutdriver to take off the back panel. He took out the old fuse, put the new one in, crewed the panel back on. Voila!
Thermal fuse open so I changed that and the thermostat to make sure it would cycle the heat.
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