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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
took off back. unhooked 2 wires and a screw. replaced and done . put on back.
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Were these instructions helpful?
So far I change the heating element and thermostat and is still not heating.
The diagnostic tool on the web site was great, offering the top reasons for my problem. The web site schematic diagram of my dryer was extremely helpful for the repair. Taking the back panel off and having the schematic for guidance made it possible to replace the parts in about 20 minutes. ALSO, I ordered the parts on-line on a Thursday, and the parts were on my doorstep the next day!! Awesome service which I have passed along the info to several friends.
My dryer did not heat my clothes. I replaced the heating element, three thermostats, and a fuse. The whole installation took less than 15 minutes and was very easy!
First off I was really impressed about the videos provided. They helped make the repairs with more confidence. I changed just about every part related to an heating problem before I hit the defective part. Part I changed were Heating Element - 5600W 240V, Cycling Thermostat, Thermal Fuse, High Limit Thermostat. After replacing all these parts, still no heat. I then read that the Thermal cutoff kit has an additional sensor that you can't get separately but as a part of a kit which forces me to purchase an item twice. After another week spent waiting for the second order to arrive, the part came and I was able to replace and regained heat fairly quickly. Yeah! I do have an ohm meter but the dryer is at a location that is very difficult to reach when plugged in so changing the parts one by one was the safest way to go. It is fixed now and we are all happy. My only complaint is that the thermal kit was not mentioned as a possible issue or else I would have ordered it on the same order. In any case this earned me major brownie point to my significant other double Yeah!!!
I am almost 60yr. old, I have never come across a better do it yourself site ever. The repairs went well and the video instruction were even better, where have you been my whole life? Instead of picking & plucking parts I went for all 3. I have gone back and forth to stores way to many times in the past for repairs. This was quick and easy and I had no doubts about the job. Prices were right shipping was fast and my wife & I are now happy dry people. Thanks much PARTSELECT
I first repaired the most likely suspects. The heating element and fuse. That did not do the trick. So then I replaced everything else that could effect the heat, that was over 1% of the likely problem. Wala...fixed. Directions were easy, work was easy and the result was a working dryer, good as new. I probably replaced a few items that were not bad but the entire cost was just over $100. A far cry from replacing the dryer at $599
I replaced the cycling thermostat but this did not remedy the problem and after further evaluation I determined that the secondary solenoid coil (hold/assist)had an open coil wire on the gas valve. This is best purchased as a set, primary coil and secondary coil, as it is less expensive this way.
The Dryer needed part #3387134 as it wasn't heating up. After installing the part, it worked for 1 load then the timer wouldn't work. The dryer isn't that old, I was hoping to save it.
Just follow the instruction given to me a piece of cake
replaced switches,didn,t fix.guess i,ll try heater element next
i followed the video exactly. It was very clear and showed step by step instructions. After removing the back with 1/4 inch nutdriver, I removed the cycling thermostat by disconnecting the wires. Some were hard to get off so I had to use the needle nose pliers to pull from just below the clamp. Installing the new one was a snap. I undid the screw for the thermal fuse and repalced with the new one. However, once I installed the new parts my dryer still did not work. Found out that it was a bad breaker. Only one half of the breaker worked. Only 110 instead of 220 was working. Once the breaker was replaced, my dryer worked great. I am still proud that I could replace those parts by myself.
order part fixed it just like the video great site!!!!!
took of the back and replaced the therostat
Had already replaced the heating element, Hi/Lo thermostats, and now the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat, and still have the same symptons.
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