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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Prelude to this was 2 years ago we had the same problem, called Sears and $200 later we had a new $16 dollar part, the repair guy was kind enough to tell me what he did, and I saved the fuse he replaced. So when it happened again this summer, I went through a couple of sites (obviously including this one) to find parts, started with the fuse he had replaced, which was not the problem this time, went on to the next likely, and on through about 5 key elements (all under $20) until I found the coils on the burner assembly were the problem. All in all the repairs were pretty simple, and once I figured out how to dismantle the cabinet safely. I am VERY happy with the timely replacement parts (shipped very quickly) and when your dryer isn't working-things pile up pretty quickly. The dryer is working like a charm again. Thanks! -Mike
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This was so easy with the Partselect video. I removed the back of the dryer (9 screws) with a pair of pliers. Took a picture of the cycling thermostat with a digital camara, just in case I mixed up the wires. I removed 4 wires and two screws, screwed in the new cycling thermostat and reattached the wires. NOTE: wires can be pretty tight, a pair of needle nose pliers would have helped.Unfortunately, my wife did not mention that the dryer was not getting hot, only that the timer did not advance. I hopped back online, ordered the heating element and the thermal fuse, debated about paying for a next day delivery and decided against it. I placed the order on a Thursday night at 10:00 p.m. It shipped Friday and arrived on Saturday evening. I was not expecting it until Wednesday!! The Dryer is working like new, my wife thinks that I'm a genious and I'm just happy I did not have to help lug clothes to the laundromat Sunday!!!LT
Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet.Pulled out the dryer from against the wall, allowing room for me to work.Turned off the gas to the dryer.Removed all the screws from the black panel covering the cabinet, not from the console control.Pulled off the black panel.Located Thermal Fuse (two wires coming from it) at the bottom, just above Thermostat (several wires coming from it). Removed single screw attaching the Fuse.Tested Thermal Fuse with MultiMeter set to Ohm for continuity. No continuity means the fuse was blown so I needed to replace it.Since the back panel was already removed, I replaced the Thermostat for good measure. Just remembered to mark which wires went where and replaced Thermostat.You can test before replacing everything.
After reading most of the repair stories i decided that these two pieces were the main culprits of not having heat so i just decided to jump in and do it myself. This repair was fairly simple. I unplugged the dryer first. The dryer was a gas dryer but i did not turn off the gas. I then took the off the large metal cover on the back of the dryer as well as the air vent coming in. This required removing eight screws from the panel. Once i took off the plate, the fuse and thermostat were in plain view. I then removed the screws which secured these pieces in place and unattached the wires connected to them. There were about four wires for each piece and i just reattached the wires to the exact same spot on the new pieces. Just remember which wire goes with the right connection. They just slid onto the connector. The only difficulty was that a couple of the wires were a little snug on the connection so i had to use small pliers to pry them free. Once they were in place and i put the panel back on and plugged the dryer back on. I started it and within a few seconds the dryer kicked on and we had heat. These two procedures were quick and very easy for even the simplest handy person.
Watched the vidio. Removed back, swap out part shown and replaced. 10 minutes.......Ran test load, and then with wet clothes.......Worked like it should and a $20 part was way better than replacing a dryer..........
Replaced thermal fuse, cyling thermal, then replaced thermostat 205F, ptoblems still remained.Using ohmmeter measured and inspected all components . Found that the valve coils a little bit stick to the shaft. Orderd the two terminal gas valve coil and secondary coil valve - three terminal and replaced. Problem solved. :-)
I took the back off 1st put the element and thermostats in... 2nd I took the front off the dryer and replaced the belt.....3rd I blew out all the lint and dust and then put it back together it was a cake walk...I want to add that the parts arrived extremely "FAST" and "ACCURATE"... which made the job that much easier.....
removed back panel, removed thermal fuse and tested it to find it was not working, ordered replacement fuse and operating thermostat (which was a recommended replacement if replacing the fuse), replaced both parts and dryer worked again
I went on partsselect.com's web site, punched in the model number and easily found the parts I needed. Parts arrived in two days. Repairs went well, especially when my wife was my tool assistant! I recommend this site as a must for do it yourself repairs that will save you a lot of money.
It was fairly easy. I took the back cover off, located the parts, took them out and replaced them with new ones.
Not noticing the break in the heat coil, I ordered two other minor parts, before ordering the heat coil. Less than 10 minutes to replace the old one, and now it works great! Thank you for your installation instructions and parts diagrams!
I followed the diagnosis sequence found on your website. The detailed diagrams of the unit helped. I tried to use the factory website but it assumed the reader had a certain amount of practical repair experience. The parts were delivered very quickly. I would have liked to have known if there was some way to test with a meter some of the original components I eventually had to purchase so I could narrow the problem down more closely.
Followed the instructions on the video.
I tested the continuity of all of the fuses with an ohm meter. It was very easy to replace the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat (less than 15 minutes). A possible cause of the problem and symptoms was also a large buildup of lint in the lint chute/blower housing area which impeded airflow severely. It was easy to unscrew it and pull the lint out. It works like new now.
took off back. unhooked 2 wires and a screw. replaced and done . put on back.
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