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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I had no heat so I began to check all thermostats and wiring all checked ok except for cycling thermostat or atleast I thought but when checking across the smaller pins it is normal to have high resistance around 6900 ohms so I then installed new parts with no change. Intially I found that the breaker was blowing the top section of the breaker so i first replaced breaker and checked all power with new breaker and was getting normal power but then the next I was not only getting 42V for one pole of the 220V so just remember KISS - keep it simple stupid don't forget to check the common things first and several times I replaced the defevtive breaker that I purchased with new and all is well.
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I pulled the back off, replaced the parts, put back together, plugged it in and WALLA! it worked and has for a week. Thank you partSelect.com.
Replaced the timer switch and the cycling thermostat.Have already replaced the heater,thermal fuse ,250 F thermostat.Still no heat.. I will now replace the thermal cut off fuse in the heater box and cross my fingers.
This was incredibly easy. After visiting this site and diagnosing the problem based on other's responses, I went ahead and ordered the recommended parts. When the parts arrived a few days later I went back on to the website to watch the repair videos. After viewing the videos one time, which took a total of about 10 minutes, I jumped up, grabbed my cordless driver, the appropriate socket and a pair of needle nosed pliers (as recommended in the video). With no exaggeration, whatsoever, I removed the back of the dryer, replaced the cycling thermostat and the thermal fuse and had the back in place and the dryer ready to run in under 5 minutes! My wife and I were both very surprised. The best news is that it fixed our problem. For weeks, the local repairman kept telling us that we just needed to clean out the dryer vent and make sure that there were no bends in the dryer flex hose. At first, we were very frustrated that he wouldn't check out the dryer in more detail, but now we are very grateful that he didn't because the cost of the parts was considerably less than the repair bill would have been. Thanks PartSelect! What a truly incredible parts AND service website! I know I shouldn't wish this, but I almost can't wait until the next time something breaks down! PartSelect will be my first stop! (I'm knocking on every piece of wood I can find!)Thanks Again!BrianIdaho
After searching google about my problem I was directed to Partselect.com, there I seen other people with the same problem I had and I read all there post's and I purchesed the parts they used. I believe it was just the one time thermal fuse but I ordered the other parts just to be safe. I placed my order in the afternoon and I received my parts the next afternoon! I was shocked. I installed the parts in less then 30min's using there diagram I printed. I tested the dryer and it worked again! I spent less then $50.00 for parts and shipping, I know I saved alot of money as having someone out to look at the dryer would've cost me at least $50.00
Replaced thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. Replacing both took less than 15 minutes. Dryer fired right up after that.
Ordered all of the thermostats and fuses. Unplugged appliance. Removed back panel. Replaced all items, still did not heat. I removed the 2 screws from the filter housing, and lifted the top. I disconnected the door sensor. I removed the 2 5/16" retaining bolts and removed the front cover, supported the drum and discovered a loose connection on the harness that connects to the drum motor. (Engineered not to heat up unless everything else is functional, including drum rotation.) I reestablished a good connection and buttonned her back up. Now i have spare thermostats.
It was very simple, I followed the instructions from your video. It also gave me the opportunity to vac out the unit which had not been done for some time. I plan on changing the igniter at a future date, making things new in that area. To be able to do it myself saved me a lot of money.
All parts were correct is what I should say to begin. Replacing the parts was a bit difficult, but I got the job done. My Kenmore dryer has been serving our needs faithfully for 14 plus years, and hopefully with these new parts, it will last a bit longer, thanks to your service parts. Much appreciated, and keep up the good work!
Dryer ran but no heat. 1st thing I assumed was a bad glow plug. Mistake, after 2 hrs taking apart the front of the dryer(Drum,Belt,Whole front) and tested the voltage to glow plug was 0. I went to parts select and determined that the thermal fuse was bad. Replaced it along with the t-stat and over-limit switch. Worked great! Next time I will go to this web site BEFORE I assume anything. whole repair was less then $60.00 Very fast shipping and 2 weeks later the dryer is still working. Advice to everyone, replace all 3 items to play it safe not just the thermal fuse!
I read previous posts and figured that the Thermal Fuse, Cycling Thermostat, Secondary Coil Gas Valve, and Two Terminal Coil Gas Valve added up to about 74% probability for fixing the problem. Well, bingo!! Problem solved replacing the above parts. Didn't want to waste time starting with the cheapest thing and then moving on. With a family of five we need laundry capacity almost daily.Took barely more than 1 hr. to take it apart and replace the parts and put back together. The instructional video made all the difference in the world. Very very easy. The trickiest part was the clamp holding down the two coils on the gas valve. There was limited space to get the screwdriver on the screws due to the drum being in the way. Put a screwdriver bit from my cordless screwgun in a socket and was able to get the job done. Thank you part select!!! Total repair was barely over $100 including shipping and did it on my own time without having to set up a time for a repair guy.
unscrewed screws unhooked wires and replace parts in revise order but this still don't fix the problem
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