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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I removed the nuts from to get the back of the dryer off (I think there were 8 or so). Then I removed the cycling thermostat (careful to watch were the wires were), I ten installed the new one. I then did the same with the thermal cut-off and the heating element. The door catch kit wasn't what I needed so I didn't install it. If I would have known it was going to be so easy I would have done this repair months ago!!!
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Were these instructions helpful?
It was a really easy repair. Simply removed the back cover and swapped out the parts. The only tricky part was getting the wires reconnected.
Removed 2 screws and 2 wires, replaced the part and then there was heat.
Replace 1 time use fuse and thermostat. Remove and clean all ductwork.
After diagnosing the fuse associated with this part as being the problem and ordering it from Sears I came across this web site and compared prices. I found the repair stories and discovered that Whirlpool which is the manufacturer for Kenmore, recommends replacing the thermostat along with the fuse as the thermostat is the likely cause for blowing the fuse. I ordered the thermostat from PartSelect and had it the next day while Sears was like 5 days. If I need repair parts in the future I'll order from PartSelect.
After checking some of the tips on the part select sight I removed the back panel of the dryer and located the thermal fuse. I checked the fuse with a meter I borrowed from a friend and it was bad so I ordered the fuse and followed the advise from some of the other tips I read and also replaced the thermostat. Much easier than anticipated. Dryer is working just fine now. Parts were at my house in 2-3 days. Total cost about 31 dollars.
This all happened Sunday afternoon. I looked online for "my dryer wont get hot".They suggested the thermal fuse. I unplugged the dryer, pulled it away from the wall and looked on the back. There was a metal cover so I removed it. 1/4 nut driver. There was the fuse and the thermostat. I disconnected the 2 wires off the fuse and the 1 1/4 nut and we typed the number off the fuse in the search line and it took us to replacement dryer parts at parts select.com and it had a picture and I said order it. Your site suggested we replace the thermostat also so for a few extra dollars I got both parts - put them in and dryer is working fine now. I was pleased with the whole process.
Tested thermal fuse with ohm meter and found no continuity, figured thermostat did not open and burnt fuse once it hit 195 degrees. Replaced the two of them and all is good know.
Termal Fuse and Cycling thermostat were on the outer shell of the dryer under the rear sheld. It was tougher removing the rear sheld than changing the parts..
Turned off power to dryer. removed vent pipe, removed back cover(8 screws 1/4" hex). Took off wires from cycling thermostat( lower right side of dryer) removed one hex screw,pull out old thermostat and insert new thermostat, one hex screw,put wires back on thermostat. thought I may as well do a good cleaning at this time. put the back on with 8 hex screws, attached vent pipe, tightened clamp on pipe,pushed dryer back in place and turned on power.Now dries in less than a whole auto dry cycle.
Extremely easy! I used this website's part diagrams and videos to find out where the parts were in the dryer. I only needed a 1/4" socket on a screwdriver handle to remove the back of the dryer and the same socket for the screws holding most of the parts on (one needed a phillips screwdriver). I didnt have a ohm tester, so I ordered the heating element, cycling thermostat, thermal fuse and 250f Thermostat, knowing I could return the one(s) I didnt need. Replaced them all and guess what...it still didnt work! So I read some other people's comments and found out there was one more part I hadnt ordered that might be the problem...the THERMAL CUT OFF KIT. It has the 250F thermostat PLUS another (different) Thermal cut off fuse, that attaches several inches above the heating element. I ordered that part, got it the next day, and the Thermal cut off fuse that was in the kit (not available separately) ended up being the solution to my problem! The wire to it was actually fried, so the extra connectors in the kit were perfect, and I just cut and stripped the wire a little and put on the new connector, and the dryer works great.
Looked on web site and saw that problem was probably thermal fuse. Used volt meter and found fuse was bad. Ordered new fuse and thermal thermostat as recommended by whirlpool. Arrived in 2 days, took about 30 minutes to take off back of dryer and replace both parts. Dryer works fine now.
part was replaced,and I still have the same problem
And prior to installing all the parts, Thermal Fuse, Cycling Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, leveling feet, and I even replace the heating element prior to these parts.
replaced heat elemant,and all thermastats in dryer....works great
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