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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
It was fairly easy. I took the back cover off, located the parts, took them out and replaced them with new ones.
Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.
Were these instructions helpful?
Not noticing the break in the heat coil, I ordered two other minor parts, before ordering the heat coil. Less than 10 minutes to replace the old one, and now it works great! Thank you for your installation instructions and parts diagrams!
I followed the diagnosis sequence found on your website. The detailed diagrams of the unit helped. I tried to use the factory website but it assumed the reader had a certain amount of practical repair experience. The parts were delivered very quickly. I would have liked to have known if there was some way to test with a meter some of the original components I eventually had to purchase so I could narrow the problem down more closely.
Followed the instructions on the video.
I tested the continuity of all of the fuses with an ohm meter. It was very easy to replace the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat (less than 15 minutes). A possible cause of the problem and symptoms was also a large buildup of lint in the lint chute/blower housing area which impeded airflow severely. It was easy to unscrew it and pull the lint out. It works like new now.
took off back. unhooked 2 wires and a screw. replaced and done . put on back.
So far I change the heating element and thermostat and is still not heating.
The diagnostic tool on the web site was great, offering the top reasons for my problem. The web site schematic diagram of my dryer was extremely helpful for the repair. Taking the back panel off and having the schematic for guidance made it possible to replace the parts in about 20 minutes. ALSO, I ordered the parts on-line on a Thursday, and the parts were on my doorstep the next day!! Awesome service which I have passed along the info to several friends.
I am almost 60yr. old, I have never come across a better do it yourself site ever. The repairs went well and the video instruction were even better, where have you been my whole life? Instead of picking & plucking parts I went for all 3. I have gone back and forth to stores way to many times in the past for repairs. This was quick and easy and I had no doubts about the job. Prices were right shipping was fast and my wife & I are now happy dry people. Thanks much PARTSELECT
I first repaired the most likely suspects. The heating element and fuse. That did not do the trick. So then I replaced everything else that could effect the heat, that was over 1% of the likely problem. Wala...fixed. Directions were easy, work was easy and the result was a working dryer, good as new. I probably replaced a few items that were not bad but the entire cost was just over $100. A far cry from replacing the dryer at $599
I replaced the cycling thermostat but this did not remedy the problem and after further evaluation I determined that the secondary solenoid coil (hold/assist)had an open coil wire on the gas valve. This is best purchased as a set, primary coil and secondary coil, as it is less expensive this way.
The Dryer needed part #3387134 as it wasn't heating up. After installing the part, it worked for 1 load then the timer wouldn't work. The dryer isn't that old, I was hoping to save it.
Just follow the instruction given to me a piece of cake
replaced switches,didn,t fix.guess i,ll try heater element next
i followed the video exactly. It was very clear and showed step by step instructions. After removing the back with 1/4 inch nutdriver, I removed the cycling thermostat by disconnecting the wires. Some were hard to get off so I had to use the needle nose pliers to pull from just below the clamp. Installing the new one was a snap. I undid the screw for the thermal fuse and repalced with the new one. However, once I installed the new parts my dryer still did not work. Found out that it was a bad breaker. Only one half of the breaker worked. Only 110 instead of 220 was working. Once the breaker was replaced, my dryer worked great. I am still proud that I could replace those parts by myself.
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