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11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias
11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-2-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-3-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/RSDYZ2AA.gif

Thermostat, Internal-Bias

PartSelect Number PS11741405

A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. The installation of the cycling thermostat is simple and the only tool required is a 1/4 inch nut driver (and gloves for safety).

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, KENMORE®, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Timer will not advance.
  • Too hot.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Will not shut off.
  • Will not tumble.

Compare At

$17.95

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$2.99

Your Price

$14.96
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 139 reviews What's this?
 

1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Lyndon from Bloomington, IN

The dryer wouldn't heat at all.

I read troubleshooting tips from other users of this website. This website had all the information I needed to accomplish the repair.

I unplugged the dryer, then tipped it onto its front. I then used a nut driver to remove the dryer backing. After removing the dryer backing, I used the same nut driver to remove the heating element cover since it was the part I initially suspected. The same size nut driver worked on all the parts.

Per recommendations I read on the site, the first thing I did was a continuity check on the heating element. It was good. After reviewing some input from this site, the next best step seemed to be replacing the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem. The cool thing? PartSelect.com got me the part within a couple of days. So, I came back to PartsSelect.com and ordered the next two cheapest parts (ordered two parts at once to save on shipping and handling). The parts came within 4 days. I used the Thermal Cut-Off Kit in its entirety and the problem was fixed! THANK YOU PARTSSELECT.

Here's an impact statement: The day after the dryer had stopped working, I called a repair shop. They told me that if they came out that day, the cost would be $85, plus parts, plus labor. I figured that would run around $140 - $150. Total for PartSelect.com? Around $60 (including shipping and handling) -- and I didn't even use all the parts I ordered.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: richard from media, PA

Dryer stopped heating

Went to literature for info only to find that there was no electrical schematic or part numbers given for repair. Disconnected vent and removed back (6 hexhead screws). Removing and testing my parts then matching the parts with pictures found on parts select and using the numbers found on the parts, was able to order a new thermal fuse and also replace the cycling thermostat. Tested the unit, replaced the back with screws, cleaned & connected the vent then went on to start dirtying more clothes.

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Joseph from Mountain Top, PA

Dryer would not run

First I checked for power at the outlet (240volts-power good). I then removed 9 screws holding the back cover. I then turned the timer to run position and pushed the start button this allowed me to hear the timer andvance. So I disconnected power to the dryer and removed the wires to the thermal fuse. I then took a ohms reading across the fuse...it showed open. Removed one screw replaced fuse.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: sheldon from macon, GA

Dryer want heat up

they sent the wrong part . when i got the right part i removed the two screws holding the element . took the Thermostat out . removed the plugs . put the new thermostat in plug in the plugs. screwed the element back in place . And now i need to replace the fuse located at the top of the element casing.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Mark from Mountain View, CA

Takes too long to dry

I was directed to the cycling thermostat for my problem. The thermal fuse was another possibility. I was too lazy to check them with a VOM before ordering so I ordered both. The repair video was helpful and the assembly diagram was useful for locating the parts. I removed the 9 back panel screws with a 1/4" socket wrench and removed the panel. Each part is held with a sheet metal screw which are removed with a screw driver. The connectors were very tight and I used pliers to pull them off the parts. The parts pop out of the mounting slots and are easily replaced and secured with the screws. I labelled all the wires (2 for the thermal fuse and 4 for the thermistor) but the polarity probably does not matter. I replaced the wires, replaced the back panel and replaced the 1/4" screws. The dryer works again. I checked the old parts with a VOM and found that only the cycling thermistor was bad, so now I have a spare thermal fuse.

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2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: kenneth from pacifica, CA

Flame would not stay lit

Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Pliers, Wrench set
Customer: Jenene from Baltimore, MD

No heat

My dryer did not heat my clothes. I replaced the heating element, three thermostats, and a fuse. The whole installation took less than 15 minutes and was very easy!

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Socket set
Customer: Firmin from Lansing, MI

No heat problem

First off I was really impressed about the videos provided. They helped make the repairs with more confidence. I changed just about every part related to an heating problem before I hit the defective part. Part I changed were Heating Element - 5600W 240V, Cycling Thermostat, Thermal Fuse, High Limit Thermostat. After replacing all these parts, still no heat. I then read that the Thermal cutoff kit has an additional sensor that you can't get separately but as a part of a kit which forces me to purchase an item twice. After another week spent waiting for the second order to arrive, the part came and I was able to replace and regained heat fairly quickly. Yeah! I do have an ohm meter but the dryer is at a location that is very difficult to reach when plugged in so changing the parts one by one was the safest way to go. It is fixed now and we are all happy. My only complaint is that the thermal kit was not mentioned as a possible issue or else I would have ordered it on the same order. In any case this earned me major brownie point to my significant other double Yeah!!!

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: William from Coalinga, CA

Dryer would not start

I had worked as a stationary engineer/refrigeration mechanic for large commercial building/plant systems for several years at journey level. I also had worked as an instructor in this field. However I have not done much of this type work for several years. Using the wiring diagram contained within the control panel at the top of the dryer, was able to trace the sequence of operation to the component i suspected (thermal fuse). It was the thermal fuse per check with ohm meter. Instructions on the dryer internals indicated if thermal fuse blown to also replace cycling t stat. I also found that the blower unit was full of microdirt/lint, which was restricing airflow-vacuumed. ordered the parts overnight, and replaced. works fine now.The unit is my household electric dryer, made by whirlpool but sold under the kirkland costco brand. When i worked as a journey level technician, i always noticed that whirlpool product are generally a better quality than most, and have better parts availability, and ease of repair. this still holds true.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Jeff from Pinon Hills, CA

Dryer would not heat, drying cycle never stopped

Our dryer suddenly stopped heating up, and subsequently would not dry any clothes! The timer would run down to 0, but the dryer would continue to tumble until we manually stopped it. After finding the partselect.com site and checking the 'Parts that Fix' page for our dryer model, I followed the excellent video walkthrough, removed and tested the Thermal Fuse which, sure enough, was bad. I ordered a new fuse and it was delivered two days later (standard shipping). Placing the new Thermal Fuse was simple and I had the dryer running again very quickly, and while it would now stop at the end of the cycle, it was not fully heating up and drying still. I ordered the Cycling Thermostat (next most likely cause, according to the site) and again two days later had it in hand, replaced, and the dryer works perfectly! In the end, our problem was both a bad Thermal Fuse and faulty Cycling Thermostat. The PartSelect site was a perfect tool to not only find the part, but recommend which was most likely to solve the problem, show diagrams of the part locations, and give an excellent video walkthrough of replacing the parts. I highly recommend this site!

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Charles F from Belle Mead, NJ

Drier without heat

all sensors/fuses were measuring open at room temperature with an ohmmeter.
Called Whirlpool for drawing and install and got nothing.
Found nice video on you tube.
Unscrewed and replaced each device one by one.
The terminal mod went exactly as portrayed.
Owner pleased.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Michael from Lancaster, NY

My dryer did not heat up

Prelude to this was 2 years ago we had the same problem, called Sears and $200 later we had a new $16 dollar part, the repair guy was kind enough to tell me what he did, and I saved the fuse he replaced. So when it happened again this summer, I went through a couple of sites (obviously including this one) to find parts, started with the fuse he had replaced, which was not the problem this time, went on to the next likely, and on through about 5 key elements (all under $20) until I found the coils on the burner assembly were the problem. All in all the repairs were pretty simple, and once I figured out how to dismantle the cabinet safely. I am VERY happy with the timely replacement parts (shipped very quickly) and when your dryer isn't working-things pile up pretty quickly. The dryer is working like a charm again. Thanks! -Mike

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers
Customer: Latrenda from Forney, TX

Timer would not advance/no heat

This was so easy with the Partselect video. I removed the back of the dryer (9 screws) with a pair of pliers. Took a picture of the cycling thermostat with a digital camara, just in case I mixed up the wires. I removed 4 wires and two screws, screwed in the new cycling thermostat and reattached the wires. NOTE: wires can be pretty tight, a pair of needle nose pliers would have helped.

Unfortunately, my wife did not mention that the dryer was not getting hot, only that the timer did not advance. I hopped back online, ordered the heating element and the thermal fuse, debated about paying for a next day delivery and decided against it. I placed the order on a Thursday night at 10:00 p.m. It shipped Friday and arrived on Saturday evening. I was not expecting it until Wednesday!!

The Dryer is working like new, my wife thinks that I'm a genious and I'm just happy I did not have to help lug clothes to the laundromat Sunday!!!
LT

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Jack from Kenton, OH

Dryer would not start

After diagnosing the fuse associated with this part as being the problem and ordering it from Sears I came across this web site and compared prices. I found the repair stories and discovered that Whirlpool which is the manufacturer for Kenmore, recommends replacing the thermostat along with the fuse as the thermostat is the likely cause for blowing the fuse. I ordered the thermostat from PartSelect and had it the next day while Sears was like 5 days. If I need repair parts in the future I'll order from PartSelect.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Christopher from Downey, CA

Dryer would not heat clothes

Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet.
Pulled out the dryer from against the wall, allowing room for me to work.
Turned off the gas to the dryer.
Removed all the screws from the black panel covering the cabinet, not from the console control.
Pulled off the black panel.
Located Thermal Fuse (two wires coming from it) at the bottom, just above Thermostat (several wires coming from it). Removed single screw attaching the Fuse.
Tested Thermal Fuse with MultiMeter set to Ohm for continuity. No continuity means the fuse was blown so I needed to replace it.

Since the back panel was already removed, I replaced the Thermostat for good measure. Just remembered to mark which wires went where and replaced Thermostat.
You can test before replacing everything.

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