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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
i took a stab that it was the thermostat,but it wasn't.after finding out it was the coils i purchased them and lifted the top of the dryer and undid two screws in the upper front of the dryer and lifted the front off all while holding the tub in place.The coils are located in the very front left of the dryer,i took the holder bracket off,disconnected the wires and replaced the coils(they just sit on a rod)dryer works like new and thanks to the new thermostat also gets hotter,i'm guessing that was next.
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I read troubleshooting tips from other users of this website. This website had all the information I needed to accomplish the repair. I unplugged the dryer, then tipped it onto its front. I then used a nut driver to remove the dryer backing. After removing the dryer backing, I used the same nut driver to remove the heating element cover since it was the part I initially suspected. The same size nut driver worked on all the parts. Per recommendations I read on the site, the first thing I did was a continuity check on the heating element. It was good. After reviewing some input from this site, the next best step seemed to be replacing the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem. The cool thing? PartSelect.com got me the part within a couple of days. So, I came back to PartsSelect.com and ordered the next two cheapest parts (ordered two parts at once to save on shipping and handling). The parts came within 4 days. I used the Thermal Cut-Off Kit in its entirety and the problem was fixed! THANK YOU PARTSSELECT. Here's an impact statement: The day after the dryer had stopped working, I called a repair shop. They told me that if they came out that day, the cost would be $85, plus parts, plus labor. I figured that would run around $140 - $150. Total for PartSelect.com? Around $60 (including shipping and handling) -- and I didn't even use all the parts I ordered.
Went to literature for info only to find that there was no electrical schematic or part numbers given for repair. Disconnected vent and removed back (6 hexhead screws). Removing and testing my parts then matching the parts with pictures found on parts select and using the numbers found on the parts, was able to order a new thermal fuse and also replace the cycling thermostat. Tested the unit, replaced the back with screws, cleaned & connected the vent then went on to start dirtying more clothes.
First I checked for power at the outlet (240volts-power good). I then removed 9 screws holding the back cover. I then turned the timer to run position and pushed the start button this allowed me to hear the timer andvance. So I disconnected power to the dryer and removed the wires to the thermal fuse. I then took a ohms reading across the fuse...it showed open. Removed one screw replaced fuse.
they sent the wrong part . when i got the right part i removed the two screws holding the element . took the Thermostat out . removed the plugs . put the new thermostat in plug in the plugs. screwed the element back in place . And now i need to replace the fuse located at the top of the element casing.
I was directed to the cycling thermostat for my problem. The thermal fuse was another possibility. I was too lazy to check them with a VOM before ordering so I ordered both. The repair video was helpful and the assembly diagram was useful for locating the parts. I removed the 9 back panel screws with a 1/4" socket wrench and removed the panel. Each part is held with a sheet metal screw which are removed with a screw driver. The connectors were very tight and I used pliers to pull them off the parts. The parts pop out of the mounting slots and are easily replaced and secured with the screws. I labelled all the wires (2 for the thermal fuse and 4 for the thermistor) but the polarity probably does not matter. I replaced the wires, replaced the back panel and replaced the 1/4" screws. The dryer works again. I checked the old parts with a VOM and found that only the cycling thermistor was bad, so now I have a spare thermal fuse.
Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.
Replaced heating element, thermostats and fuse, cleaned dryer vent shafts and it is now working like when it was new.
I had worked as a stationary engineer/refrigeration mechanic for large commercial building/plant systems for several years at journey level. I also had worked as an instructor in this field. However I have not done much of this type work for several years. Using the wiring diagram contained within the control panel at the top of the dryer, was able to trace the sequence of operation to the component i suspected (thermal fuse). It was the thermal fuse per check with ohm meter. Instructions on the dryer internals indicated if thermal fuse blown to also replace cycling t stat. I also found that the blower unit was full of microdirt/lint, which was restricing airflow-vacuumed. ordered the parts overnight, and replaced. works fine now.The unit is my household electric dryer, made by whirlpool but sold under the kirkland costco brand. When i worked as a journey level technician, i always noticed that whirlpool product are generally a better quality than most, and have better parts availability, and ease of repair. this still holds true.
Our dryer suddenly stopped heating up, and subsequently would not dry any clothes! The timer would run down to 0, but the dryer would continue to tumble until we manually stopped it. After finding the partselect.com site and checking the 'Parts that Fix' page for our dryer model, I followed the excellent video walkthrough, removed and tested the Thermal Fuse which, sure enough, was bad. I ordered a new fuse and it was delivered two days later (standard shipping). Placing the new Thermal Fuse was simple and I had the dryer running again very quickly, and while it would now stop at the end of the cycle, it was not fully heating up and drying still. I ordered the Cycling Thermostat (next most likely cause, according to the site) and again two days later had it in hand, replaced, and the dryer works perfectly! In the end, our problem was both a bad Thermal Fuse and faulty Cycling Thermostat. The PartSelect site was a perfect tool to not only find the part, but recommend which was most likely to solve the problem, show diagrams of the part locations, and give an excellent video walkthrough of replacing the parts. I highly recommend this site!
all sensors/fuses were measuring open at room temperature with an ohmmeter.Called Whirlpool for drawing and install and got nothing.Found nice video on you tube.Unscrewed and replaced each device one by one.The terminal mod went exactly as portrayed.Owner pleased.
Prelude to this was 2 years ago we had the same problem, called Sears and $200 later we had a new $16 dollar part, the repair guy was kind enough to tell me what he did, and I saved the fuse he replaced. So when it happened again this summer, I went through a couple of sites (obviously including this one) to find parts, started with the fuse he had replaced, which was not the problem this time, went on to the next likely, and on through about 5 key elements (all under $20) until I found the coils on the burner assembly were the problem. All in all the repairs were pretty simple, and once I figured out how to dismantle the cabinet safely. I am VERY happy with the timely replacement parts (shipped very quickly) and when your dryer isn't working-things pile up pretty quickly. The dryer is working like a charm again. Thanks! -Mike
This was so easy with the Partselect video. I removed the back of the dryer (9 screws) with a pair of pliers. Took a picture of the cycling thermostat with a digital camara, just in case I mixed up the wires. I removed 4 wires and two screws, screwed in the new cycling thermostat and reattached the wires. NOTE: wires can be pretty tight, a pair of needle nose pliers would have helped.Unfortunately, my wife did not mention that the dryer was not getting hot, only that the timer did not advance. I hopped back online, ordered the heating element and the thermal fuse, debated about paying for a next day delivery and decided against it. I placed the order on a Thursday night at 10:00 p.m. It shipped Friday and arrived on Saturday evening. I was not expecting it until Wednesday!! The Dryer is working like new, my wife thinks that I'm a genious and I'm just happy I did not have to help lug clothes to the laundromat Sunday!!!LT
After diagnosing the fuse associated with this part as being the problem and ordering it from Sears I came across this web site and compared prices. I found the repair stories and discovered that Whirlpool which is the manufacturer for Kenmore, recommends replacing the thermostat along with the fuse as the thermostat is the likely cause for blowing the fuse. I ordered the thermostat from PartSelect and had it the next day while Sears was like 5 days. If I need repair parts in the future I'll order from PartSelect.
Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet.Pulled out the dryer from against the wall, allowing room for me to work.Turned off the gas to the dryer.Removed all the screws from the black panel covering the cabinet, not from the console control.Pulled off the black panel.Located Thermal Fuse (two wires coming from it) at the bottom, just above Thermostat (several wires coming from it). Removed single screw attaching the Fuse.Tested Thermal Fuse with MultiMeter set to Ohm for continuity. No continuity means the fuse was blown so I needed to replace it.Since the back panel was already removed, I replaced the Thermostat for good measure. Just remembered to mark which wires went where and replaced Thermostat.You can test before replacing everything.
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