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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Just removed the back panel with nut driver . Located the parts and replaced one at a t-ime. I replaced all the parts that I order , so I really can't say which part fixed it. But working good now.
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Were these instructions helpful?
First I removed the back of the dryer. Then I used a multimeter to check the thermostsats and the one time use fuse. I found that the fuse had burnt out and one of the thermostats ha checked bad. I changed the fuse by removeing the one screw and lifting the fuse out. Replaced the fuse and reinstalled. I also made sure that the fan for the dyer and the lint trap area were clean. I also changed both of the thermostats while I had the dryer apart. Reassembled the dryer. Everything worked. NICE! No repair bills or buying a new unit.
The first thing I did was google "whirlpool dryer repair drying takes too long" to determine all of the possible parts I needed to order (the result was 3 possible parts, a heating element and two different thermostats). I then went to www.partselect.com (I'm a repeat customer) and searched the parts using the dryer model number listed just inside the door. I then printed the dryer model diagram off of the www.partselect.com website to determine the location of all the parts and how to replace them. Our first purchase was the new heating element from the www.partselect.com website, received it in just a couple of days and replaced it, but that did not fix the problem. We then ordered the two thermostats, again received them in 2-3 days, replaced them, and were drying clothes in <30 min. in no time! All we had to do was unplug the dryer, disconnect the vent hose, take the back off, unscrew each thermostat, disconnect the wires, install the new thermostats, reconnect the wires, screw the thermostats back in place, replace the back cover, reconnect the vent hose and plug the dryer back in. It took <15 min. for the complete repair! Thanks, www.partselect.com! I will continue to be a repeat customer!!!!!
The dryer was igniting when initially starting load, but didn't light again the rest of the cycle. On my model the access was through the front panel, didn't even have to pull dryer out. Open the door and there are two screws on each side.of the inside of frame. Remove screws and lift door off the the whole front of the pulls out and down and removes, and everything is right there to work on. Replaced thermostat, that took 5 min. But didn't fix the problem. So I purchased and replaced the "M" Series New Style Coil Kit, took about 10 min. I took olm/continuity readings b/t all terminals of the old and new coils and they were only about 5% difference, the old being a little lower. But that fixed the problem, works like new again.
Followed the instructions in the video provided on the partselect website. The video's instructions were excellent. Simple removed the back comver of the dryer, located the parts and replaced them. It would have cost me at least $500 for a new dryer. At least $150 to have a repair man come. I did this repair myself for $45!! I highly recommend partselect.com.
I went on partsselect.com's web site, punched in the model number and easily found the parts I needed. Parts arrived in two days. Repairs went well, especially when my wife was my tool assistant! I recommend this site as a must for do it yourself repairs that will save you a lot of money.
i took a stab that it was the thermostat,but it wasn't.after finding out it was the coils i purchased them and lifted the top of the dryer and undid two screws in the upper front of the dryer and lifted the front off all while holding the tub in place.The coils are located in the very front left of the dryer,i took the holder bracket off,disconnected the wires and replaced the coils(they just sit on a rod)dryer works like new and thanks to the new thermostat also gets hotter,i'm guessing that was next.
I read troubleshooting tips from other users of this website. This website had all the information I needed to accomplish the repair. I unplugged the dryer, then tipped it onto its front. I then used a nut driver to remove the dryer backing. After removing the dryer backing, I used the same nut driver to remove the heating element cover since it was the part I initially suspected. The same size nut driver worked on all the parts. Per recommendations I read on the site, the first thing I did was a continuity check on the heating element. It was good. After reviewing some input from this site, the next best step seemed to be replacing the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem. The cool thing? PartSelect.com got me the part within a couple of days. So, I came back to PartsSelect.com and ordered the next two cheapest parts (ordered two parts at once to save on shipping and handling). The parts came within 4 days. I used the Thermal Cut-Off Kit in its entirety and the problem was fixed! THANK YOU PARTSSELECT. Here's an impact statement: The day after the dryer had stopped working, I called a repair shop. They told me that if they came out that day, the cost would be $85, plus parts, plus labor. I figured that would run around $140 - $150. Total for PartSelect.com? Around $60 (including shipping and handling) -- and I didn't even use all the parts I ordered.
Went to literature for info only to find that there was no electrical schematic or part numbers given for repair. Disconnected vent and removed back (6 hexhead screws). Removing and testing my parts then matching the parts with pictures found on parts select and using the numbers found on the parts, was able to order a new thermal fuse and also replace the cycling thermostat. Tested the unit, replaced the back with screws, cleaned & connected the vent then went on to start dirtying more clothes.
First I checked for power at the outlet (240volts-power good). I then removed 9 screws holding the back cover. I then turned the timer to run position and pushed the start button this allowed me to hear the timer andvance. So I disconnected power to the dryer and removed the wires to the thermal fuse. I then took a ohms reading across the fuse...it showed open. Removed one screw replaced fuse.
they sent the wrong part . when i got the right part i removed the two screws holding the element . took the Thermostat out . removed the plugs . put the new thermostat in plug in the plugs. screwed the element back in place . And now i need to replace the fuse located at the top of the element casing.
I was directed to the cycling thermostat for my problem. The thermal fuse was another possibility. I was too lazy to check them with a VOM before ordering so I ordered both. The repair video was helpful and the assembly diagram was useful for locating the parts. I removed the 9 back panel screws with a 1/4" socket wrench and removed the panel. Each part is held with a sheet metal screw which are removed with a screw driver. The connectors were very tight and I used pliers to pull them off the parts. The parts pop out of the mounting slots and are easily replaced and secured with the screws. I labelled all the wires (2 for the thermal fuse and 4 for the thermistor) but the polarity probably does not matter. I replaced the wires, replaced the back panel and replaced the 1/4" screws. The dryer works again. I checked the old parts with a VOM and found that only the cycling thermistor was bad, so now I have a spare thermal fuse.
Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.
Replaced heating element, thermostats and fuse, cleaned dryer vent shafts and it is now working like when it was new.
I had worked as a stationary engineer/refrigeration mechanic for large commercial building/plant systems for several years at journey level. I also had worked as an instructor in this field. However I have not done much of this type work for several years. Using the wiring diagram contained within the control panel at the top of the dryer, was able to trace the sequence of operation to the component i suspected (thermal fuse). It was the thermal fuse per check with ohm meter. Instructions on the dryer internals indicated if thermal fuse blown to also replace cycling t stat. I also found that the blower unit was full of microdirt/lint, which was restricing airflow-vacuumed. ordered the parts overnight, and replaced. works fine now.The unit is my household electric dryer, made by whirlpool but sold under the kirkland costco brand. When i worked as a journey level technician, i always noticed that whirlpool product are generally a better quality than most, and have better parts availability, and ease of repair. this still holds true.
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