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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 155 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 155 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I watched the installation video on both parts before I purchased them and it was a piece-of-cake after that.
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Checked online for symptoms.Pulled panel from front of unit (no tools required)Vacuumed all lint from unit to see if that was a problem.Removed the exhaust port which comes off with 3 hex head screws. Based on the symptoms, I pulled the wires off the thermal fuse and did a continuity check on it. There was no continuity, so I knew I needed that part. Since a common reason for that to fail is the cycling thermostat allows the dryer to get too hot, I replaced that thermostat as well, just to be safe. Due to closeness to the drum, I had to use a socket to remove the hex head screws on the two electronic parts.Total time was about 40 mins. to diagnose and 20 mins. to replace the parts and verify correct operation.
First I unplugged the dryer from 240V and removed the back cover upper (behind the switch) and lower (exposing the remainder of the parts)Inside the upper section was a folded wiring diagram of the dryer (don't know if this was courtesy of Whirlpool or another individual, but it was a very nice touch.)I did a resistance measurement across the heating coil and found out it was fine. I then plugged the dryer back in and carefully took voltage measurements from one phase of power (this was easily accessed where the power comes in to the dryer, just be careful not to touch or short the wires)I had an assistant turn on the dryer (this makes things go a little faster, as you are behind the dryer otherwise) and checked for 240V across the heater coil.Once I did not have this, I kept one lead on the left side wire (one of the power phases coming into the dryer) and moved the other lead to the left (as viewed on the wiring diagram) until I no longer had 240V. This identified the faulty component as the Thermostat High-Limit, non resetable.I ordered the kit with the High Limit NR and High limit Thermostat (as both had to be bad). I also ordered the 150 degree cycling thermostat (although this was not necessary - for <$20 I opted to replace it as well)Removing wires one at a time, each component is fairly easy to replace.My only complaint is that with the combo kit, the wire attachment is a little different that the original component and requires you to cut an existing wire and crimp a different terminal to allow all three wires on the High Limit thermostat (250 degrees) to be attached. There is little to show you how exactly the crimp is to be connected (it goes on the smaller of the three wires - DO NOT CUT the jumper provided and USE A GOOD CRIMPER - not the $2 variety, or you'll be getting a new connector!!) The connector provided is designed for some strain relief from one connector to the other, however) An additional jumper with the appropriate connectors already attached would be a nicer design. Also, make sure you do NOT screw in the smaller cover that covers the power in until you place the entire lower half cover back on the dryer (unless you want to take it off a second time, as I did...) as it uses a common screw to hold both in place. Overall, fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools, straight blade screwdriver to remove stubborn wire connectors (esp. for HT thermostat 250), ratchet and socket for quick removal and replacement of covers, and a good T&B style crimper ($10-$20 at your local hardware and well worth it even if you only use it a couple of times) 30 minutes and done - the dryer now cranks out the heat and the advanced settings (Auto dry) work great - no more 2-3 times throug to get things dry. If you have a minimum of mechanical ability and a little bit of electronic troubleshooting skill, you can check and repair this youself and save about an $80-$100 service call. Thanks to Part Select for the diagram of the dryer layout as well!! (Schematic would be nice if available online, though!) Shipped the part in about 2 days from order time, as well. Will be back (hopefully not soon, though, as something has to break first!!!) Be safe and good luck!(One last note: Make sure your lint trap is clear including the hose - either due to build up or a lazy kid...as this probably caused the failure as heat could not escape...)
Prior to ordering parts i moved the dryer out and took the back off the dryer with a nutdriver. I noticed right a way the heating element was damaged and burnt up. I ordered the above parts and recieved them in two to three days. the parts on my dryer were easy to get to and I just matched up the parts i recieved and replaced them one at a time. It only took a nit driver to remove them and plug the wires back in to the new parts. the dryer works like new again.
Followed the video .... Also installed another part. which was a kit. the video here showed the third wire being installed. The video on repair clinic did not show where to attach the third wire (orange wire). The Kit and the Thermostat was installed with 25 mins. Thanks
I knew that the dryer needed a new belt and since the dryer was also failing to dry the clothes in one cycle, I decided to replace the three thermostats, figuring that I might as well do all three if I'm going to open up the dryer. I downloaded a schematic of the dryer from the Whirlpool web site, which helped me to order the right parts and see how I would be able to make the repairs. Once I figured out how to get to the drum for the belt replacement, installation was quite easy.First step was to unplug the dryer, remove the vent hose and remove the back panel with a nut driver. Once the back panel was removed, it was easy to see all three sensors. The heating element unit was easy to remove - two screws. This made it easier to replace the sensor. Each sensor was shaped differently, making it easier to decide what went where. This normally would not have been a problem, but the part numbers have changed for this dryer. I could have also cross referenced the parts by using the partselect.com web site.To access the dryer drum, I had to remove two screws on the back of the dryer that are located in two tabs that hold the control panel to the dryer cabinet. Once removed, it was easy to lift the top of the cabinet and swing it up and against a nearby wall for support while I replaced the belt.I removed the old belt from the motor pulley, and then just removed the whole drum. I placed the new belt around the drum, placed the drum back in position. With my wife supporting the drum, it was easy to bring the belt through a guide and slip over the motor pulley. Then, I rotated the drum manually to make sure the belt wasn't twisted.After ten minutes of putting everything back together, it was time to plug in the dryer and test it. I did it without a load first and checked the vent for hot air. After that, we did a couple of loads...one on high and one on perma press, and when the cycle was over, the clothes were dry!Delivery time from PartSelect was super fast! Prices are excellent, and I really appreciate such a helpful web site. Anyone with a small amount of mechanical ability and "do it yourself" experience can save $$$ by fixing it yourself. Having someone service this dryer would have cost me more just to replace the belt.....let alone the added insurance of replacing the sensors. And, I learned that if the heating element should fail, replacing it would be a snap, and would start with a visit toe partselect.com!
Unpluged dryer power cord.Removed lower front panel (two snap clips at top of panel)(Rear panel cannot be removed from this dryer). Removed blower/filter housing (held by two screws). Found blown fuse by using an ohm meter across the fuse terminals with one wire removed - no continuity. When new parts arrived, I removed two wires from fuse and four wires from thermostat. Removed two screws holding fuse and two screws holding thermostat, and removed both parts. I then reversed the above procedures.Dryer works great!Total cost, including shipping, was $47.76
Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, igniter kit and thermostate. Dryer still does not work, still no heat.Have ordered gas valve solinoids to try next.
I did my repair alone by myself after viewing a short video online at partselect.com The man in the video showed every step slowly and professionally. I took some extra time to clean the dust off behind the back of Dryer while I had it open for fixing.....thanks for your help and it saved me over $190 plus which I was quoted by technician for estimate and parts. I paid $43.00 for my parts...both High limit and Cycling thermostats were replaced. My wife told me good job honey ! You can do it too.
First i removed the rear panel on the dryer.the removed bothe thermostats that were on the blower housings.unpluged all wiers and installed new thermostats.reinstalled the wiers in there proper locations...note to log the location of the wires when removing from old switch.reinstalled the rear panel and hooked dryer back up and test.
repair wasfairly easy,part select custemer stories and advice really helped.parts were shipped sooner then exepected,i will recomend part select to everyone i know.
Installed fuse and two thermostat parts. Your system of correlating problem to part needed to fix the problem is a really good system.
First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.
Just removed the back panel with nut driver . Located the parts and replaced one at a t-ime. I replaced all the parts that I order , so I really can't say which part fixed it. But working good now.
First I removed the back of the dryer. Then I used a multimeter to check the thermostsats and the one time use fuse. I found that the fuse had burnt out and one of the thermostats ha checked bad. I changed the fuse by removeing the one screw and lifting the fuse out. Replaced the fuse and reinstalled. I also made sure that the fan for the dyer and the lint trap area were clean. I also changed both of the thermostats while I had the dryer apart. Reassembled the dryer. Everything worked. NICE! No repair bills or buying a new unit.
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