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PartSelect Number PS11741334
This white under spray arm bearing ring is designed with the split. This is not a defective or damaged item.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
unscrewed hold down thumb screw pulled up washer spray assembly set in bottom seal then put spray assembly back with bearing on top of spray assembly and reattached thumb screw ,done really took about 30 seconds
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Remove the Lower Spray assembly, remove/replace the worn wash arm bearing ring, and replace the Spray arm Seal then reinstall the Lower Spray Assembly. DONE
Unscrewed the plastic screw by hand, removed spray arm and saw the seal was worn. Did this due to the arm did not spin properly and not getting very clean dishes.Ordered part from Partselect by chance and was lucky I found their site. Parts reorder was very simple.
remove bottom spinning sprayer, remove busings reinstall.
The washer arm retainer nut was broken and the washer arm was dislodged Decided to replace the sprayarm and wash arm bearing ring as they looked worn. Middle wash arm tube holder had been broken but was wired together. Decide to replace it as well. Fedex deliver the package and I was running the dish washer fifteen minutes later. Great service and a simple repair
I just followed your very easy instructions on the video and it took me about 5 minutes to replace both worn parts.
Really simple, took out bottom rack, unscrewed nut, removed sprayarm----took out old part (seal) put in new seal----put whole thing back together. Plus, you did have a "how to" video for replacing the seal, which we watched just to be sure we weren't missing anything.Also ordered lint filter/upper agitator & agitator cap for my Roper washing machine, Old agitator would no longer stay on the lower agitator-----washing machine is 16 years old----snap agitator & cap together, & lower onto agitator.Your pictures in your website for all parts, were spot on----no wondering if I was ordering the correct part. Will use you again in the future---Thank you so much.
Oven light - Removed 4 screws, unpluged wiring harness on circuit board (3 plugs), removed old control panel and put new one in - less than 15 minutes Very easy !Dishwasher - Removed spray arm and replaced bearing ring and sprayarm seal - 5 minutes. Very easy !
Removed bottom half of nut with pliers, installed new bearings top and bottom and new retainer nut. Ordered the parts on Sunday, delivered and fixed on Wednesday, Great service as we live in a very remote area.Thanks,,,,,,
simply applied the parts by looking at the old parts on the machine. Very simple
I removed the old parts and put in the new ones. No tools necessary. It was a snap.
I had difficulty determining what was causing the problem. One's first take would be that the door bottom seal was bad, but inspection showed it was more of a drip rail than a seal because it didn't appear to be designed to touch the tub tightly when the door was closed.. Then reading on this site (and others), the idea that the washer arm was tiltiing excessivily was suggested. This would allow the full force of the spray to be directeed at the bottom seal. Since the parts were relatively inexpensive, I replaced the arm bearrling ring, and lower arm seal and the arm retaining nut.. (I could see nothing wrong with the arm itself and the arm was relatively expensive. So, I didn't order it. ) The leak stopped. I noticed that the flange on the old arm bearing ring was narrower than the new one, maybe through wear. But, I am still not sure exactly where/how the water was being splashed or driven toward the door to cause the leak. But, with those parts, it's fixed. Putting the parts in was trivial. Remove the nut, lift the arm off. Set the parts in place, Set the arm back in place. Put th nut back on. The nut is a "thumb nut" . No tools required. A tip: use a folded newspaper below the drip point to catch and make apparent any leak/drip. Drops of water on the paper are easy to spot.
Check your card against your invoice. They added an extra 1.53 dollars that wasn't on my invoice.Their is really nothing to explain. 1. Upper Spray arm It's just removed 2 screws and replaced the old with the new.2. Lower spray arm bearing and seal, Removed center wing bolt, removed arm removed and replaced seal and bearing.
unscrewed the part and replaced it. Easy part replacement.....$4 part and $13 shipping.....that's nuts!
The problem was the water powered lower swing arm bearing (bushing) had worn out (had rubbed away part of it's flat surface). First I removed the large screw with the big flat finger grip flanges on the top side of the lower swing arm assembly. this assemble looks like a big hub cap. Lift the assemble up and off the attachment stem. The bearing goes on top and the seal on the bottom. Both just push in place with your fingers. Reinstall the assemble on the attaching pivot point that it was removed from and secure with the large thumb screw first removed. Spin the assembley to check for any binding. Do not over tighten the thumb screw. Water pressure is all that drives this assembly and it should always turn with no obstructions.
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