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PartSelect Number PS11741334
This white under spray arm bearing ring is designed with the split. This is not a defective or damaged item.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I simply unscrewed the remainder of the wash arm retainer nut, removed the wash arm bearing ring and spray arm bearing ring and replaced them; No tools were required. At the same time I decided to replaced the upper wash arm with a kit from Part Select. This did require the use of a philips head screwdriver. The job was real easy and accomplished within 1 hour.
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Replaced the lower washer arm retaining nut,bearing ring.and seal in about 3 min.The retaining nut had broken off inside - make sure to remove the broken piece-I used needle nose pliers.The dispenser took about 35 mins. Removed all the screws around the inside of the door and removed panel.Removed screws holding the dispenser and replaced.I took time to give the dishwasher a good cleaning(inside edge).Now my wife is happy.
Removed the lower spray arm assembly thumb screw and lifted off the spray arm assembly. The lower seal had disintigrated - couldn't even find any pieces in the filter. After reassembly with the new seal and bearing I turned the spray arm by hand to ensure it was not binding. There was still was, what I would consider, some excessive wobble. I fashioned a shim washer out of some plastic from a Folgers coffee can lid and installed it on the thumbscrew threaded shaft and tightened it all down finger tight - it works very well and now, and no wobble.I relaced the upper spray arm seal while I was doing the job (both the upper and lower seals are the same part #). I figured it would go out on me eventually, so I might as well replace it while I was doing the lower arm work. Kept the old upper arm seal as an emergency replacement.Cleaned the filter screen of all debris (it is amazing what collects there over time). Cleaned the stainless tub with some spray Greased Lightning, ran the rinse cycle, and then put a few tablespoons of citric acid crystals in the soap dispenser and ran the dishwasher on NORMAL WASH with temperature boost.Looks new inside; cleans the dishes, glasses and utensils well (no water spotting); and is nice and quite (like when it was new).
My dishwasher started leaking at the door. I checked the level, door seal, fill float, etc. Nothing worked. Another reviewer of these parts said to replace the Seal, Lower Sprayarm, the Wash Arm Bearing Ring, and the wash arm. I replaced the seal and the bearing, not the washer arm, as my spray had little to no wear. This fixed the problem! If you dishwasher leaks at the door, it is possible these parts are worn and replacing them wil fix the leak. Thanks to the other reviewer I now have no leaks! Buy a spare nut because they break very easy if overtorqued!
I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.
Uncscrewed the lower washer arm retaining nut and replaced it along wint the 2 washers. Cleans like new.Unscrewed the front panal from behind. Removed the inside vent covering. Unscrewed the handle screws and removed the handle. Replaced the handle and screws but not before gouging the back of my hand ( I had a needle and thread) and then reattached the panal and vent cavering. The blow-up diagrams you all have are a great reference. Thanks
First I removed the plastic bolt that holds the wash arm in place This exposed the upper ring that was worn out . I then lifted the arm off which exposed the larger ring. I replaced that ring, and then I put the arm back on and replaced the upper ring. I put the plastic bolt back in place and the repair was complete.-- Really Easy plus the dishwasher gets the dishes clean now
I guess some food got caught in the water level sense float and caused it to mal function.In the diagnosis process, I removed the arm to clean out any debree in the strainer ( found broken glass). I also found that the two rings mentioned above were worn. I replaced them and all is well.Thank you for fast response with the replacement parts.
I just had to unscrew the old nut and screw the new one and install the new wash arm bearing ring.
required NO tools, just unscrew the large thumb screw, and replace the washer arm bearing! problem solved like that! maybe a 5 min job. part was a perfect match.
Removed spray bar by removing the plastic finger thumb screw and replace as shown by you web page. Very simple.
First I removed the nut holding down the lower washarm in place. I then lifted up the lower washarm where it's held in place by the nut. I replaced the two new parts: The lower sprayarm seal that seats underneath the lower washarm and the washarm bearing ring that seats on the top of the lower washarm just underneath the nut. A schematic parts list diagram can be downloaded on the KitchenAid website. The wobbling motion of the lower washarm still seems to have the same amount of play as it had before I replaced the two parts. The lower washarm itself is in fine shape including the nut. I even attempted several other different ways to install the seal and bearing ring, yet the washarm still wobbles when I manually spin it. I called KitchenAid to find out if wobbling of the lower washarm was normal. Unfortunately, the person I spoke to didn't seem to me to knowledgable enough in this area.
piece of cake to do, follow instructions on sheet provided easy as 1,2,3...
Used nut driver to remove old spray arm assembly on top rack. Reinstalled the new assembly, clamped the holding assembly onto the rack, tightened the holding assembly--that's it.
I ordered the parts from parts select and was pleasantly suprised at the diagnostic diagrams, the home install video, and the quality and pricing of the parts. I had ordered just the top bearing a few years ago and did not realized the bottom seal was bad also. I found the seal pushed down around the pump housing which caused excessive ware on the pump housing top and the top of the wash arm because the gap in the lower seal expanded over 1/4 inch causing the wear on the top of the wash are. This job is normally very easy. Unscrew the thumb screw on top, remove old bearing, pull off the wash arm, remove old seal. Then just put new seal on top of pump (check for any burrs and remove with a fine grit emory sand paper) put on the wash arm, insert top bearing and tighten finger nut tight. I had excessive wear (due to age of unit and lower seal not in proper position), so I had to construct a spacer to take up some of the slack. I could not find a nylon washer(and you need nylon) in the stores ready made and did not want rubber or metal washers due to the adverse effects these would have on the new bearing. I improvised. I purchased a pack of 10 nylon wall anchor washers from Menards (after they said no nylon washers were available:) I used 2 inch O.D. washers with 1/4 inch I.D. which was a perfect center hole and used a drill to enlarge center from 1/4 inch to 1 inch I.D. (to fit around the finger nut screw stem), and removed all burrs. Unscrewed top finger nut and placed under nut on top of seal and the 1/8 inch width took up the slack. Problem solved.
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