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PartSelect Number PS11741334
This dishwasher lower spray arm seal, or under spray arm bearing ring, is designed with the split by the manufacturer. It is not damaged or defective, and is sourced directly from the original manufacturer. This part is approximately 2 inches in diameter, made of plastic, and is white in color. This part is mounted underneath the dishwasher spray arm and creates a seal between the lower spray arm and the sump housing. To access the seal, remove lower dish rack and unscrew the nut that secures lower spray arm to the remove cover. No tools are required to replace the lower seal on your dishwasher.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Completely removed lower wash arm and replaced bearing ring and seal.
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Removed spray arm thumb nut. Removed spray arm. replaced worn and broken earings and re-assembled in reverse order. Would have done the repair a lot sooner if I had known that PartsSelect was just a few miles up the highway.
The plastic parts on this spray arm assembly wear with time and the rotation wobble effect creates a wave action in the pool of water at the bottom of the dishwasher. This waves the water onto the front door and forces a leak outside the unit. Replace the lower arm assembly, washer, bearing and nut. They all wear. Also remember to tighten the screws on top of the pump assembly. They loosen and aid in the wobble. Good Luck!
I noticed the upper bushing washer was worn thin. this caused the lower spray arm to rise too high and wobble during all the wash cycles. Also the rotation of the lower spray arm was wearing grooves in the lower bushing. I removed the retaining nut and simply replaced teh defective parts. While I was at it I figured equal wear might be evident on the upper spray arm so I bought a complete rebuild kit to bring all rotational parts back to new and equal preformance that was achieved by removing the ss screw and removing the upper spray arm, bushing and clip then replacing them in the order of removal. Noticed a huge difference in the quality of the washed dishes!! Thanks Parts Select 100% to yoru company!!
I first removed the wash arm retainer nut then lifted the arm assembly out and replaced the spray arm bearing ring and then set the spray arm back in place and put the wash arm bearing ring in the hole and screwed the wash arm retainer nut back in place. I couldn't believe how much the 2 had worn down. It is working fine. Saved me about a $125.00 service call out here as I live 50 miles from the nearest big town. Not bad for a 68 year old female!!
Removed washer from the cabinet by unscrewing anchor screws at the top of washer. But first I removed both dish racks. Shut off power and water to washer. Unhooked water line to washer. Lowered front adjustable feet so I could easily pull washer free from the cabinet. Disconnected wiring from the wall box to allow room to allow for more working room. Drain hose was plenty long on my washer so didn't have to disconnect. Before laying on side, I disconnected the lower and upper spray units. Lower spinner is attached with a hand tightened screw in the middle of spayer. This is a left hand thred. So I had to turn it to the right to loosen. The upper spray unit is simply removed by uncliping the clips from the long flat tube that runs from the lower unit to the top. There is a set of clips in the back of the tub and a set on top. After the clips are free, turn the flat tube to your right to unlock from the bottom spinning unit. Remove and lay the washer on its side. Also before I did that I unhooked the springs at the bottow of the door so to free the door from springing back up after opening the door while on side. Good idea too to have some towels handy to absorb spilled water from the washer. I used one under the open door while on side to protect the door and floor. There are three wire disconnects under the washer that hooks to the motor, etc. There are three vinal wedges that secure the motor and punp into the bottom of the tub. Remove them, disconnect the outer pump from the motor (made it easier for me to remove the unit through the hole in the bottom of the tub. This is a little tricky. Disconnect by turning the small pump to the end of the motor to your left to unlock. The small pump is a little stubborn to losen, but will break loose with presure persistence. After removing, simply push the whole unit up through the bottom of the tub to remove. Now you are ready to reinstall everything in reverse order. It is a good idea to have someone to assist with installing the motor and punp in the tub. I securely pressed it into the hole and the second person press the vinal wedges back into the bottom of the tub to secure the unit. Putting it all back together from there was a snap.A big plus is the quick delivery. Regular delivery 3 - 5 days will do. I ordered my parts one day and received them the next by Fedx. Didn't even pay the extra for next day delivery. Everything worked perfectly. Just like a new one again. Very happy with the helps posted and service and parts provided by PartSelect.
After reading the diagrams and other readers' repair stories, I found that the plastic nuts and rings had worn out. The arm-spray wobbled excessively.I simply twisted off the spray arm bearing ring and removed the other parts. The arm-spray was covered with mineral deposits that cleaning did not remove.I received my parts overnight and replaced them according to the diagram. It's like having a new dishwasher!
This gets a little lengthy... but it explains where Cascade Dishwashing Powder came up with its brand name - it's been a cascade project.I started by replacing the Middle Wash Arm Tube as the old tube developed leaks. As others have stated this is a new design but directly replaceable and easy to do.This didn't solve the cleaning issue so reading the experiences of others on this site realized I also had broken parts in the Upper Spray Arm Assembly and the Upper Wash assembly. I replaced these and the dishes were suddenly much, much cleaner. These were very easily replaced.I did find that I did not need the Mount for the upper spray arm (PS402277) as a redesign of the Upper Spray Arm Mounting bracket no longer required it - the bracket simply clipped in -the diagram was out of date. Everything seemed to go well for about 3 loads when the dishwasher started leaking heavily out of the bottom of the door. I then noticed that the lower Wash Arm Bearing Ring and the Seal, Lower Spray Arm had disintegrated so I replaced those but this didn't affect the leaking. Someone had stated that if the lower wash arm assembly had too much 'wobble' that it cause 'waves' that would leak out the front door... mine had some wobble so I added a nylon washer from Ace Hardware that reduced wobble but still leaked.I then replaced the Door Seal Kit - this was by far the most difficult part as the door needed to be removed and it was somewhat difficult - and it seemed apparent after we had removed the door that these parts weren't the problem but we replaced them anyway. Also, someone else had noted that they had to attach the door seal (this is NOT the gasket that goes around the door opening) with a sealant - I had the same problem; the original seal fit tightly with friction but the new replacement required an adhesive - I used silicone. Still leaked.From here on I can't guaratee any useful information: I took the strainer screen out of the bottom of the dishwasher and found one slightly loose screw holding what I believe is the 'pump outlet' according to the diagram. I had also read that the water fill is controlled not by the float at the bottom of the washer but by the electronics and it was suggested that I disconnect the DW from the power to 'reset' the timer, this I did and hit the 'Cancel' cycle a couple of times to make sure that all programs were cancelled. Whether any of this made a difference I have no idea - except that the dishwasher suddenly stopped leaking and hasn't leaked a drop for at least 20 washes. So I don't know, for sure, why it leaked or how I fixed it, but it's working and washing great now - except the tines on the lower rack are beginning to rust out and breaking off. The rack is pretty expensive but so far I've saved a lot of money and my family thinks I'm a dishwasher genius.
AIR INLET GASKET Had to pull dishwaher out, using instructions sent with part, turn it 1/4 turn counter clockwise, tap with screwdriver and hammer and it came right off. Put the new one on. It was kinda hard to get it to turn the last little bit, I had to use a screw driver and hammer to make it twist that last little bit.
Once I removed the wash arm from its base and figured out what had happened I ordered the repairs I needed from PartsSelect.com. It was extremely easy to see what was needed. I had to have them sent overnight, because it was three days before Thanksgiving and the arrival of 7 extra people on Wednesday evening. The package arrived Tuesday afternoon, I opened it, removed the old spray arm bearing ring, put the new one in place, placed the wash arm bearing ring on the bottom of the wash arm, set it in place, and tightened all of it in place with the new wash arm retainer nut. Started the dishwasher and I was in business!! It took longer to open the package and unpackage everything than it did to make the repair AND no chapped and cracked hands doing Thanksgiving & weekend dishes.
unscrewed sprayarm, removed bearing and seal, used PartSelect pic and description schematic to identify part numbers then placed order. Parts arrived in two or three days.
Bottom wash arm bearing and seal were severely worn and leaking. Replaced in about one minute with new parts from PartSelect.com, and took the opportunity to clean out the arm -- stringy, fibrous matter was clogging two jets.Top arm horizontal rubber supply tube was disintegrating and leaked. Replace with Spray Arm Kit -- this took maybe two minutes! Lastly, two to of the upper right-rear folding rack tine clips were broken -- replacement was difficult as the old, broken clips were very stiff and came off only after much physical persuasion! New clips were installed easitly -- in a "snap". Time ~ 5 minutes.Best of all, the new parts were delivered to my home within 36 hours of my internet order. I thought the prices were fair, too. Thanks.
remove the lower arm and pieces.. get the parts stacked in the right order and hand screw the retainer nut... done! I decided to spend a little more and replace the whole washer arm and I'm glad I did. My dishes are coming out clear then they have in years!! Ordered the parts Thurs morning... thought i might get a load or two done but when I opened the washer on friday it was obvious I was facing a weekend of teens having to handwash dishes! 15 minutes later the doorbell rang and there were the parts!! Woo Hoo!!
Plastic parts on this Kitchenaid dishwasher suffer repeat wear problems from heat and chemical detergents. The retainer nut on the bottom wash arm split horizontally int the thread area, and during operation, the wash arm would rise up and hit the bottom of the lower basket so there was a worn groove in the wing on top of the nut and the dishes weren't getting very clean. Simple replacement, just screw the nut down. Also decided to replace the bearing ring right under the wash arm because it was getting pasted with white crust-like material from hard water and chemical detergent residues. I've dealt with PartSelect twice now, and they are fast and efficient. The online parts breakdowns are easy to follow.
Replaced the lower washer arm retaining nut,bearing ring.and seal in about 3 min.The retaining nut had broken off inside - make sure to remove the broken piece-I used needle nose pliers.The dispenser took about 35 mins. Removed all the screws around the inside of the door and removed panel.Removed screws holding the dispenser and replaced.I took time to give the dishwasher a good cleaning(inside edge).Now my wife is happy.
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