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PartSelect Number PS11741242
This white direct drive drain pump is intended for use with washing machines that do not have belts. This pump has a backflow flapper valve, and two large ports for water to pass through.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Tilted washer onto its back and removed the "cardboard" bottom sound absorption cover (2 sheet metal screws). This provides access to the pump that is located on top of the motor. Slid off each of the 2 clamps that secure the two drain hoses using slip joint pliers. Then popped loose the 2 metal holddown bracket clamps that secure the pump housing to the motor. The next step gave me a real fit... the pump housing is supposed to just lift off the motor shaft with little effort but mine was a bear. No matter how much I pulled and tugged, it didn't want to budge. Because the motor assembly is mounted on a semi-moveable suspension, when I grabbed the pump and pulled, the whole motor assembly tended to move too. I eventually had to resort to using 2 large flat blade screwdrivers to pry the pump off ... CAUTION!!! Be careful not to put too much force because you can dent the motor shaft grease housing (which I did). Fortunately, I didn't dent it enough to poke a hole in it but it was deformed... And the reason it didn't want to come off easily was - the shaft had been getting wet which caused some rusting/pitting of the shaft. Although the pump housing is all plastic, the shaft was rusted tight on it. It did come off after much tugging and prying. Otherwise this would be a very easy repair. Put the new pump in place but it wouldn't go on the shaft until I took some sandpaper and removed as much of the rust as I could. I put a little grease (vaseline) on the motor shaft and pump housing connection to make it easier to slip on. Aligned the motor shaft and pump housing - it is keyed (meaning it only goes on one way due to the shape of the motor shaft). Once keyed on properly, it slid down easily. Reattached the 2 metal holdown brackets and reattached the 2 drain hoses. Replaced the bottom cover.I did not encounter very much water in the hoses but be advised there can be enough water to get things wet (motor, floor) so you may want to have a small container to get as much water out of the hoses. Also having towels to catch any water remaining in the pump housing so it doesn't end up spilling onto the motor (a bad thing). Of course one has to UNPLUG the electrical cord BEFORE beginning this repair! Also you will most certainly need to shut off the incoming water lines and disconnect the hoses to allow you to move the washer to a position that makes it easy to get to bottom. That's all I can think of... a simple repair that should go quick if the motor shaft isn't rusted on!Good Luck...P.S. I figured the drain pump was leaking AFTER I removed the bottom cover and looked for water evidence here and there. Suspected the pump but couldn't be sure until I set the washer back up normally and ran a cycle. Using a mirror I checked to see where the drips were coming from.
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Replaced pump without disassembling the cabinet or disconnecting motor or any other parts.Disconnected power, drain, hot and cold water lines. drained lines to pail before taping to top of unit.Tipped the unit to a 45 Deg. angle, leaning the top side edge onto a stool so that pump presented well at the raised bottom edge.Removed hose clamps at pump suction and discharge ports and drained water into a shallow soaking pan. Kept clamps on hoses to facilitate reinstallation of pump.Removed spring clamps at front and rear of pump housing. Wiggled motor shaft away from coupling in pump. This is a friction fit, so no parts removal was required and no parts "come loose" in the process.Wiggled new pump housing onto the motor shaft after checking square shaft alignment with respect to square female coupling on pump.Pushed and twisted hose ends onto pump suction and discharge ports, then pulled spring clamps down over hose ends at pump ports. Reset spring clamps so that they were aligned and square with pump ports. Reconnected power, drain, hot and cold water line connections. Washer ran as before but without leaks this time.
Disconnet the washer from supply lines. pull washer out, tip on side. Remove water hoses from pump, have to squeeze hose clamps with pliers and slide them down the hose. Then remove the hoses from the pump. Then locate spring retainers that hold pump to drive motor, place flat blade screw driver under each clip and pry clip loose, then remove pump.Install new pump on shaft, making sure that alignment dowels line up with holes on pump. Hold pump in place and using finger push retainer clips over lip of pump, install hoses on pump, install hose clamps. Hook washer up to supply lines, drain lines, plug in and you'r done.
First I went to this site and read what everyone had to say on leaking pumps. After finding the model number, I looked at the parts list, and found what parts I thought I would need. First I shut off the water and unpluged the washer Replacing the water pump was very easy after reading what other people had done. I pulled the washer out from the wall about 18 inches and tilted back on a 45 degree angle. The pump was now in plain sight and helt in with two slide clamps. Using a pair of plyers I remover both clamps from both hoses on the pump. By pushing to the outside of the pump I was able to remove both of the slide clamps. This allows the pump to be lifted out and off the motor shaft. As my washer had just started leaking " about one week" the pump slid off the shaft easy. There was no rust on shaft. Pump shaft has a slot in it so the pump can only go on one way. By reversing the way I removed the pump I was able to slide the new pump back onto the shaft and slide the slip clamps back over the pump. Replacing both hoses and both clamps. Now pump was in place. I pulled the washer away from the wall and slid back into place. That took care of the pump. For the top side I removed the top part of the agitator by pulling up and removing the part that holds the softner. Under this was a piece of plastic that I was able to lift out. Under that was a 12MM bolt with a rubber washer. Using a scoket set I removed the bolt and washer. Lifting up on the agitator it came right out. Pulling on each end of the agitator I was able to pull it apart. Inside was a large plastic washer and agitator directional cogs all in one piece. This piece just lifts up and off. I replaced the old piece with the new on and slid the two agitator back togeather. Setting the agitator back into the washer and put the 12mm bold and rubber washer back on. Then I put the plastic back on and set the top softer cup back in place. Snapping in the bleach dispenser was very easy, just shap into place. Pluging the washer back in, and turning back on the water I ran the washer with no clothes in it so I could check for leaks and make sure everthing was working. Repairing both parts took about 30 minutes and now the washer is like new.
Pulled the machine out. Tilted is back, had my son hold it up. Took pliers pulled off hose clamps, used flat head screw driver to pop off clips. removed pump. Then did it all in reverse.Piece of cake.
Unplug electrical cord, disconnect water inlet hoses and drain line at rear panel. Move washer to garage or larger work area if necessary. Disconnect control panel from top of washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the front corners of the control panel. (The control panel can now be flipped up and back when you are ready to remove the cabinet assembly.) Disconnect the rear panel from cabinet assembly by removing attaching screws at bottom of rear panel (and along the vertical edges if any screws are installed there). Either slightly lift the rear panel up off of the two clip brackets that attach it to the rear top edge of the cabinet assembly, or if need be remove the clips from the cabinet slots. With the rear panel loose, slide the control panel assembly slightly towards the rear and up to disengage it from the cabinet slots, then tip it up and back, away from the cabinet. The cabinet assembly (with top attached) can now be tipped forward and away from washer to expose the internal workings. (It may be necessary to support the rear panel and/or control panel.) The water pump is attached to the front of the motor by two spring clips. Disconnect the two water lines from the pump, then remove the two spring clips. Pull the pump forward off of the shaft extending out of the motor. Install the new pump, then assemble the washer in reverse order. (I was unsure where the leak originated on my washer so I completely removed the rear panel which entailed disconnecting from it the electrical cord fitting, drain and input water fixtures and various other brackets. Pump replacement can be accomplished without completely removing the back panel.)
Removed washing machine skin and pulled pump from front bottom of washer by removing input and output hoses and disengaging clips holdin pump on motor drive. Pulled pump free of motor drive. Installed new pump in reverse order.
simple and easy . Just tipped the machine back, pump was right there in the front. Hardest part was getting the old pump off the shaft. I used a small block of wood & a large screwdrive to pry it loose (gently).After it came off I filed off some corroded spots on the shaft before slidding on the new one. then its slid on easy, Snapped on the clips , clamped on the hoses, Done, Momma's Happy, I'am Happy Ordering was easy, Shipping was fast. I will use you again.
Tipped the washer (combined, stacked washer and drier)back against the wall at a 45 degree angle and braced it up for safety. The pump is located at the front and bottom of the washer. Access is cramped. Removed the spring hose clamps with pliers, disconnected the hoses and released the metal pump attachment springs. Pump came off the drive shaft with a good pull. Reinstalling was more trouble due to the cramped access. The shaft needed to be sanded and lubricated with silicone before the new pump would slide on. It required a fair amount of force to get the pump in position, reconnect the hoses and the clips holding the pump. The top clip was the most difficult. Repair successful.
After determining where the leak was coming from I searched the web for help. Your website was the most helpful. I used some of your previous client comments to help me fix my washing machine. After trying without any luck in removing the broken pump I referred to your repair stories and determined that I would need to apply a little more force. Using a screw driver and hammer I pried off the face of the existing pump, then I used pliers to pull out the impeller, after that I was able to remove the remaining piece of the pump. After that I sanded the shaft, applied some vaseline and then installed the new pump. It was very easy once the broken part was removed.
I tilted back the machine. Pryed off two retaining clips holding the pump and released the two hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Reversed the process with the new pump and I was done. The new part fit perfectly and the washer is working like brand new. Very easy!
Tilted the washer back giving just enough room to get under. Easily pulled off the old pump after removing the clamps that hold the water lines. Put the new pump in place, reconnected the hoses and put the clamps in place - DONE - Put in clothes and ran the washer - PERFECT - no more water all over the floor.
AFTER receiving the wrong part from PartSelect the first time. When we received the correct part, we tipped the washer back, slipped on the pump, attached the two hoses, set up the washer, attached the water hose to the back, plugged it in, and on to doing the laundry.
This repair went very easily, and it definately beats having to buy a new washer!
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