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PartSelect Number PS11741239
It is intended for use with washing machines that do not have belts. This drain pump has two ports for water to pass through: a large one, and a smaller one.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well. I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.
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removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.
Repairing the agitator was easy.Removed the upper housing and 1 bolt.Change the ratcheting mechanism, reinstall, done.Changing the pump was a bit more involved.Had to remove the shell.The old pump was rusted on to the motorbut with the help of some PB Blaster, screwdrivers and a hammer I was able to get it off.No more leaks on the floor and the clothes actually agitate instead of remaing stationary.For less than a Plumbers 1 hour of labor I was able to repair it myself and will probably get another 5 years out of this washer. Will it ever die?
I tipped up the machine and had my wife hold it.I removed the two hoses with water pump pliers. Then , I removed the two clips with my fingers. The old pump came off in my hands. I installed the two hoses on the new pump with my hands, lined up the pump drive with the hole pushed it in and re-attached the two clips with my hands. The whole job took maybe five minutes. The hardest part of the job was conviencing my wife that there was no danger involved with the process.
I unplugged the washer, put a towel down, leaned it back and held it up with one hand while undoing the clamps with plyers. Pulled the two clamps off, pulled the pump, put the new pump on, reattached the clamps. Most of this with one hand while the other held the washer at an angle.
First I removed the housing to gain access to the water pump. Upon removal of the clamps holding the rubber hoses, I used a shallow pan to collect the water in the system (2-3 cups). Next, a flat tip screw driver was used to pry off the water pump retainer clips, such action permits the pump to be easily withdrawn from the motor shaft. Prior to my parts purchase, I had noticed rubber particles below the transmission which was due to a worn motor coupling. My second service step was to use a socket wrench to loosen the motor retaining clips for motor removal. The coupling was replaced, although the plastic driven "gears" were left in place and not replaced given they were observed in good condition and not easily removed with hand tools. After coupling installation to the transmission, the motor drive was aligned to engage the coupling. Alignment pins for the motor helped with such alignment. The motor retention clips were reinstalled and tightened - important to check the overall alignment here. Next, the rubber hoses to the pump were connected to make the final assembly step back to motor easy. Last the pump was resecured with the clips. The agitator was repaired by removal of the softener dispenser - pulling and twisting up. Next a deep well socket was used to remove the agitator bolt. The agitator was lifted off easily. Finally, using the instructions provided a new thrust washer was installed, the agitator cam and cam dogs were installed followed by reassembly of the agitator. The agitator bolt was installed and tightened. The cover plate residing inside the softener dispenser was reinstalled, followed by the softener dispenser itself. The new parts are all now installed....last reassemble the outer housing to the washer...everything works great now.
Of course I tried to determine where the leak was from. There wasn't a solid flow of water and was confined to the front. Pulled the washer out and laid it down. Noticed that a metal clip had a little corrosion on it and followed it back to the water pump seal. Removed two hoses and unclipped the pump. That's it. No screws or nuts. Looks like it was expected to fail and was easy to replace. It did last for 20 years though.
First unplug washer and turn water off (both hot and cold) You only need to pull washer out away from wall about 1 1/2 feet. Take a putty knife and slide under the front corner of the control panel ( both sides one at a time) lift up corner as you slide putty knife under the corner. After both sides are released on the control panel slide control panel forward( about an inch) to release rear of panel and flip panel over the top. Unplug the lid safety switch then with a screw driver unsnap the cabinet straps one on both sides that were under the control panel. Put screw driver into the spring strap end closest to you and push screw driver back which will release the straps( one on each side). Next tilt the cabinet toward from the back( about 6 ") and lift up about 2 " the cabinet can now be removed. Undue the two hoses on the water pump that is located at the bottom of the washer in the front ( make sure you catch the water from the hoses in a small pan). Undue the two spring clips that hold the pump on. Pull pump straight out (about 1 ") discard old pump and install new one in reverse order. When reinstalling the cabinet there are two stubs on the bottom bracket on the washer that have to put into the slots in the lower front corners of the cabinet ( the hardest part of the whole project is putting the cabinet back on, the trick is what I described above with the slots in the lower front corners. Good luck it very easy to do.
Unfortunately my washer cabinet did not come off as in the video so I had to do repair from underneath. The rest of the repair worked exactly like the video showed. I had a couple of small, sturdy wood boxes about 9" high which I used to brace the washer after tipping it backwards a bit (and unplugging it too). My wife acted as a spotter to be extra safe. The only two things that required the hook tool and mirror were: 1) Working from the bottom my hands were at an awkward angle so I couldn't pop the retainer clips off the pump, but a hook tool (like a screwdriver with a hooked end) popped them off easily, and 2) The other issue was once the new pump was in place I could not locate the slot for the top retainer clip until I could look at it with the telescoping handle mirror, and then I was able to put the clip in by feel. Extremely easy repair, especially with the guidance from the video. Thanks for video help! WH
Just removed the old pump with a pair pliers and snapped the new one on. It was a snap
undone 2 hoses and popped off brackets
Used online instructions from this site
Put new one on work good, but now can't pump no more .the problem now is the spin cycal broke and I not going to fix it. Thank for the part work good.
Video was very helpful. Repair was easy. Remove and replace with just hand tools. The hardest part was moving the washer around to tilt it back. Service was great. I picked regular ground shipping and parts showed up the next day.
got under machine and replaced pump
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