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PartSelect Number PS11741239
This direct drive water pump, also known as washing machine drain pump or washer drain pump, is manufactured for washing machines that do not have belts. This is a genuine Whirlpool part with two ports for water to pass through, a large one and a smaller one, that will need replacing if the washer has a defective pump. Tools needed are slip joint pliers, a flat blade screw driver, and a putty knife. Sandpaper might also be needed to remove rust from internal parts to install the new pump. The washer will have to be disconnected from power and tilted on its back.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
It took me awhile to figure out how to get the shell off the washer frame. (I didn't know about flipping it on its back). Once the moving parts were revealed, the water pump was staring at me with both ports. I turned the machine on and saw that the leak was coming from the pump. 1. Cut power2. unclipped pump with pry with screwdriver3. detatched both hoses - flood ensued4. gently pulled pump off transmission5. replaced pumpI reccommend doing this repair with empty tub.
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Make sure you UNPLUG your washer first. It is also a good idea to remove the water intake hoses from the back to avoid damage to them or the valves.Getting the outer panels off was the hardest part for me. There are 2 screws on the back of the function panel. You don't have to remove the screws completely, just until they are unscrewed from the bottom base. Then I gently pulled forward and up on the function panel and it flips back exposing the wiring. There is one wire harness plug that needs to be disconnected toward the center of the panel.There are 2 large metal clips that are removed by pressing a flat head screwdriver into them. Press down and slightly toward the front of the washer and it will release the clip. Be careful, mine popped up and flew behind the washer. Once the clips are removed you can pull the entire caging of the washer (top, front, right and left side panels as one) away from the machine. This will expose the entire innards of the washer. In the front at the bottom is the water pump. It is very easily removed. Pinch the clamps around the hoses with a pair of pliers and move them up the hoses. Pull both hoses off the pump. There are 2 metal clamps holding the pump in place. You can release them using a flat head screwdriver as well. Once free from clamps, the pump can be pulled straight forward to be removed. Replace the pump with the new one, placing it in the same place and position as the old one. Attach the clamps back on. Mine were really hard to reattach as the tension was really tight.Then slide the hoses back on and use the pliers to squeeze and slide the clamps back down the hoses to secure them to the pump.Replace the cage of the machine. On my particular model, the front panel hooks under a metal lip and the side panels rest on them, so it was a challenge getting it back into place by myself in the small area I was working in.Replace the metal clips on the top using the flat head screwdriver by pulling slightly toward the front of the washer and pressing down. It was a little scary, I thought I was going to pinch myself. Then reattach the one wire harness, flip the console back down and secure tightly. Screw the 2 screws back in on the back of the function panel and your done. Reattach the hoses and plug in your washer. This was my first washer repair. I did it with some sketchy online instructions for a different model washer. It took forever to get the washer open and was even more frustrating to put it back together. Changing out the pump was simple once I got in there. I saved over $100 in labor by doing this myself and in only took about 45 minutes. I think I'm ready to open up the dryer and give it a good cleaning.
First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money
First, disconnect from power & turning off the water. Then, accessed the part by tipping the unit back enough to work. Remove the hoses by loosening the spring clamps. Here is where things got a bit sticky. The pump motor shaft had corroded enough to make removal of the pump a wrestling match of sub-WWF levels. Once forced off, additional time was spent removing corrosion from the shaft to facilitate fitting the new unit. A little lube was used here. Re-assembly was quick & washer was righted, plugged in and returned to service. It is a simple repair which can, with a little acting ability, be portrayed as a monumental task requiring super-human strength & the wisdom of Solomon. I played the part well enough to merit a huckleberry pie for my effort & sacrifice! Thanks!
I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well. I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.
Repairing the agitator was easy.Removed the upper housing and 1 bolt.Change the ratcheting mechanism, reinstall, done.Changing the pump was a bit more involved.Had to remove the shell.The old pump was rusted on to the motorbut with the help of some PB Blaster, screwdrivers and a hammer I was able to get it off.No more leaks on the floor and the clothes actually agitate instead of remaing stationary.For less than a Plumbers 1 hour of labor I was able to repair it myself and will probably get another 5 years out of this washer. Will it ever die?
I tipped up the machine and had my wife hold it.I removed the two hoses with water pump pliers. Then , I removed the two clips with my fingers. The old pump came off in my hands. I installed the two hoses on the new pump with my hands, lined up the pump drive with the hole pushed it in and re-attached the two clips with my hands. The whole job took maybe five minutes. The hardest part of the job was conviencing my wife that there was no danger involved with the process.
First I removed the housing to gain access to the water pump. Upon removal of the clamps holding the rubber hoses, I used a shallow pan to collect the water in the system (2-3 cups). Next, a flat tip screw driver was used to pry off the water pump retainer clips, such action permits the pump to be easily withdrawn from the motor shaft. Prior to my parts purchase, I had noticed rubber particles below the transmission which was due to a worn motor coupling. My second service step was to use a socket wrench to loosen the motor retaining clips for motor removal. The coupling was replaced, although the plastic driven "gears" were left in place and not replaced given they were observed in good condition and not easily removed with hand tools. After coupling installation to the transmission, the motor drive was aligned to engage the coupling. Alignment pins for the motor helped with such alignment. The motor retention clips were reinstalled and tightened - important to check the overall alignment here. Next, the rubber hoses to the pump were connected to make the final assembly step back to motor easy. Last the pump was resecured with the clips. The agitator was repaired by removal of the softener dispenser - pulling and twisting up. Next a deep well socket was used to remove the agitator bolt. The agitator was lifted off easily. Finally, using the instructions provided a new thrust washer was installed, the agitator cam and cam dogs were installed followed by reassembly of the agitator. The agitator bolt was installed and tightened. The cover plate residing inside the softener dispenser was reinstalled, followed by the softener dispenser itself. The new parts are all now installed....last reassemble the outer housing to the washer...everything works great now.
First I watched the repair video. Then I pulled the power plug and shut the water off. I didn't have all the room available to remove the front and sides of the machine in my narrow hallway so I just slid it away from the wall and leaned it back against the wall and had plenty of room to do the repair lying on my side. $28.00 part and in 20 minutes all done. This is the second time this site saved me time and mucho money. Thank you. Leon B. from Massachusetts
I followed the you tube instructions. The hardest part was realigning the washer housing on the lower frame.
I took the washer apart with the help of your video and Also used the assembly instructions to install the new parts. Everything fit well and went together very easily. Washer works great now.
Of course I tried to determine where the leak was from. There wasn't a solid flow of water and was confined to the front. Pulled the washer out and laid it down. Noticed that a metal clip had a little corrosion on it and followed it back to the water pump seal. Removed two hoses and unclipped the pump. That's it. No screws or nuts. Looks like it was expected to fail and was easy to replace. It did last for 20 years though.
First unplug washer and turn water off (both hot and cold) You only need to pull washer out away from wall about 1 1/2 feet. Take a putty knife and slide under the front corner of the control panel ( both sides one at a time) lift up corner as you slide putty knife under the corner. After both sides are released on the control panel slide control panel forward( about an inch) to release rear of panel and flip panel over the top. Unplug the lid safety switch then with a screw driver unsnap the cabinet straps one on both sides that were under the control panel. Put screw driver into the spring strap end closest to you and push screw driver back which will release the straps( one on each side). Next tilt the cabinet toward from the back( about 6 ") and lift up about 2 " the cabinet can now be removed. Undue the two hoses on the water pump that is located at the bottom of the washer in the front ( make sure you catch the water from the hoses in a small pan). Undue the two spring clips that hold the pump on. Pull pump straight out (about 1 ") discard old pump and install new one in reverse order. When reinstalling the cabinet there are two stubs on the bottom bracket on the washer that have to put into the slots in the lower front corners of the cabinet ( the hardest part of the whole project is putting the cabinet back on, the trick is what I described above with the slots in the lower front corners. Good luck it very easy to do.
Unfortunately my washer cabinet did not come off as in the video so I had to do repair from underneath. The rest of the repair worked exactly like the video showed. I had a couple of small, sturdy wood boxes about 9" high which I used to brace the washer after tipping it backwards a bit (and unplugging it too). My wife acted as a spotter to be extra safe. The only two things that required the hook tool and mirror were: 1) Working from the bottom my hands were at an awkward angle so I couldn't pop the retainer clips off the pump, but a hook tool (like a screwdriver with a hooked end) popped them off easily, and 2) The other issue was once the new pump was in place I could not locate the slot for the top retainer clip until I could look at it with the telescoping handle mirror, and then I was able to put the clip in by feel. Extremely easy repair, especially with the guidance from the video. Thanks for video help! WH
Just removed the old pump with a pair pliers and snapped the new one on. It was a snap
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