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PartSelect Number PS11741239
This direct drive water pump, also known as washing machine drain pump or washer drain pump, is manufactured for washing machines that do not have belts. This is a genuine Whirlpool part with two ports for water to pass through, a large one and a smaller one, that will need replacing if the washer has a defective pump. Tools needed are slip joint pliers, a flat blade screw driver, and a putty knife. Sandpaper might also be needed to remove rust from internal parts to install the new pump. The washer will have to be disconnected from power and tilted on its back.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Actually this is kinda funny. I ordered the part and it arrived when I was out of town on business. My 20 year old daughter tipped the washer up on its end, and replaced the pump herself in less than 30 minutes. Her only complaint was that no one told her to block the washer up as it almost fell on her.
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The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on the pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!
Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.
I unplugged the washer & using a screwdriver I removed cabinet retainer clips; removed the pump retainer clips; removed old pump from unit; installed new pump; reinstalled cabinet plugged in unit tested all ok
On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.
Put new one on work good, but now can't pump no more .the problem now is the spin cycal broke and I not going to fix it. Thank for the part work good.
Disconneted hoses,unplugged.removed drain hose.Turned unit on its side.Unsnapped retainers,tryed to to pull off with just my hands,that didn't work.Used a pry bar to pop off.The end of the shaft was rusted out.I took a dremel with wire brush and cleaned up the end.Then the pump njust slid on.I took it off again and applied some anti-sieze on the end of shaft.then put pump back on.Snapped the retainers and put hoses back on.It was easy.When I first looked up washer parts,I found this other site and the price ws doulbe.Then I found you guys ,1/2 the cost and it was here in 2 days.Thank You Parts select.
removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.
Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is. So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah!Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while. New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.
We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue doesbuild up on the inside of the wash tubs.)
I first replaced the timer, but that did not solve the problem (same lack of drain and spin). I then ordered a lid switch and a drain pump. Installing the timer had been pretty easy, but it was much more difficult to get to the lid switch and the pump. Once the lid switch and pump were installed, the washing machine worked perfectly again. I don't know for sure, but I think it was the lid switch that was the problem, because when we removed it, we found it to be cracked, so the pump was probably not needing to be replaced. Considering I purchased too many parts, this was not inexpensive, but if I'd called a repair service, they would have charged me for the diagnosis and then told me that it would cost too much to be worth repairing. I'm a happy customer!
I followed the instructions in the video on the part page (part #PS11741239), which was also conveniently linked in the item shipped email. The replacement of the part was very easy ... the hard part was balancing the washer again (kitchen floor seems to have sunk in the middle). Back to normal function without having to suffer a flood first. Thanks.
Just changed out the old pump with the new one. It went very quick and smooth!
1. removed screws holding control panel to the washers main body. unplugg the wire connector that goes to the lid switch.2. slide the whole body off, makes it easier than tilting washer back..when removing a stubborn pump.3.disconnected both hoses from water pump. removed 2 retaining clips4.pulled the old pump off , put the new one on.so easy .......my mom could do this
It took me awhile to figure out how to get the shell off the washer frame. (I didn't know about flipping it on its back). Once the moving parts were revealed, the water pump was staring at me with both ports. I turned the machine on and saw that the leak was coming from the pump. 1. Cut power2. unclipped pump with pry with screwdriver3. detatched both hoses - flood ensued4. gently pulled pump off transmission5. replaced pumpI reccommend doing this repair with empty tub.
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