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PartSelect Number PS11740951
This flat style gas oven igniter has ceramic housing and comes with a connector. The igniter body is just over three inches in length. Be very careful to not touch the black element part of this igniter as it is very fragile.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
remove oven flare pan in bottom of stove, about 25 screws, lift out and remove igniter. tip stove back and remove splash pan from underneath, 2 screws, unplug ignitor and reinstall using reverse procedure. igniter is very fragile so be extremely careful with it. reuse old hardware to hold in place,reassemble and good to go.
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Ordered new ignitor and recieved it in two days. Took out broiler drawer, took out 6 screws ,replaced ignitor reinstalled screws and broiler drawer in less then 15 minutes. New ignitor works perfectly. Couldn't of been any easier.
Baking ignitor glows but gas valve not opening. Replacing the bake ignitor solves the problem.Here is how to do:1) open the oven door, unload the racks, bottom plate, and flame deflector. unscrew three screws (phillips screw driver needed) to loosen the bake ignitor (along with the metal rack).2) take out the bottom drawer. you should see two screw all the way at the back. unscrew them to take off a metal cover. you should see the connector. unplug to take off the defective ignitor.3) plug in the ignitor and put everything back in reverse order.It took me a while to figure out how to access the connector at the bottom back of the stove. The next time it should take less than 15 minutes.
Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.
My husband took it apart then showed me how to put it back together. So I placed it in the metal holder and attatched all the screws.
Removed racks and pans from oven, removed 1 screw that housed the v shaped burner cover. Then I noticed the Igniter housing was held to back of oven with 3 small screws, removed 3 screws, and noticed the igniter just slid into the housing, but the connection would not come through back of unit. pulled out the lower tray to expose the underside of the oven and noticed 2 screws holding a metal cover, removed those and noticed connection to igniter, undid the connection, slid out the igniter and then just reversed the process to put back. It took me about 20 minutes, and that was only because I was being overly careful with the ceramic igniter, as the one in there just crumbled. Very easy job for anyone with even moderate skills. Ordered my part with assitance from a lady at parts express on Monday at noon, had the part delivered Tuesday at 3:00, had the oven back up and running fine by 3:30. Couldn't be happier, as this happened once before and the repairman charged me $185, this cost $48 and 15 minutes.Unbelievable service and detailed help. I have this site bookmarked for anything moving forward.Thanks
Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.
Turn off power to unit. Remove one nut inside bottom of oven to expose glow bar and igniter. Take 3 screws off of ignitor cover and remove it.Pull out pan storage drawer to expose igniter plug connector. Unplug connector. Remove igniter.Plug in new igniter and reverse the above instructions to reassemble.This was a much easier repair than I thought it would be. I read online that, given the problems my oven was having, it was almost certainly the igniter that was the problem. It was - with the new igniter it works perfectly!
The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!
All I would like to say is that I am very satisfied with the service I received from PartSelect.I definitely would order from them again. By doing the work myself, I believe I saved $80 in labor costs. Thank you
I identified the igniter problem in the lower part of the oven by turning the upper broiler on and finding that it worked. I then knew it was not a gas supply problem. Replacing the igniter required removing the two oven racks, removing the drip pan, removing two screws that connect the igniter to its mount and disconnecting the wires in the back of the oven. The install was the reverse of removal. One tip, on my oven I was able to lift the oven door off of its hinges which allowed much easier access to the igniter.
Pulled the burner cover, removed two screws holding igniter in place, pulled oven out from wall and unplugged igniter at back, feed wire and plug back thru to oven. Removed old igniter from holder slid new one in place and reversed procedure to feed wires back thru to back side. Plugged in igniter replaced burner cover and pushed stove back into place. The procedure took about five minutes if that.
It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.
Removed the bottom drawer then removed the door - 2 screws. It would be hard to reach in oven with door still attached and it is simple to remove and put back on. Removed the racks and pan on bottom, which just lifts out. Removed 3 screws that hold bracket that contains igniter. The igniter plugs in and to access the plug you must remove a cover underneath the range. Once the drawer is out you have to crawl back in there to access the plug. I sent in my 14 year old for that. Make sure range is unplugged. Insert igniter in bracket and feed wire back down to plug in and reattach. Vacuumed oven out with a shop vac, etc. and it is a 30 min project.
1.) Trun Off Power2.) Remove the Storage Drawer and the two (2) screws holding on the (Ignitor Plug) access cover-plate located in the back of the storage drawer access. (see page 15 if same model)3.) Dissconnect the Ignitor Plug4.) From the oven opening remove the three screws holding the Ignitor Holder.5.) Remove the Ignitor and Holder from the oven by gently guiding the wires through the access hole6.) Pull the Ignitor from the holder7.) All Ignitors are extremelt fragile; install the new Ignitor into the Holder and make certain it is installed tight, mine was not. (Slight bending with my thumbs on the 1/4" flanges might hold it tighter if it is lose.)8.)Reverse the process.Note: One person here said they removed "ALL" the screws, maybe it was a different model, I only had to remove a total of "5" screws, two at the access cover plate and three at the Ignitor holder.First time took me 20 minutes, if I needed to do it today, maybe 10. Please also note that I didn't troubleshoot the Ignitor, as I didn't have a wrap-around amp meter, but the typical problem here would be the Ignitor, not the Gas Valve. Good Luck, pt
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