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PartSelect Number PS11740951
This flat style gas oven igniter has ceramic housing and comes with a connector. The igniter body is just over three inches in length. Be very careful to not touch the black element part of this igniter as it is very fragile.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I replaced the Oven Igniter. With a ohmn meter I checked the resistance on the Igniter and there was nothing there. I figured the module had to see some kind of resistance to turn the gas on. The Oven now works after replacing the Oven Igniter, but the Broiler still will not light. I will check the resistance on the Broiler Igniter and see what is going on there. The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance.To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.
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opened up the oven to locate the position of igniter disconnected igniter and checked the continuity of the igniter to find that I had an open circuit once I found out the igniter was no good I google for appliance parts and found parts select had the best prices that I could find. I called a couple local parts stores and there prices were definately inflated. I chose to go with parts.select.comI receive the part in two days! I installed the new part within 15 minutes and turn on the oven to have it light almost instantly. I won much praise from my wife. Parts.select.com recieves my praise for ease and quickness of part delivery.
The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out the best way to get access to the part. Basically just had to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven then remove the shield that was directing the heat that comes off of the burner. Once I had access to that, I could see the ignitor. To get access to the plug in section, I had to take out the bottom drawer for pots and pans, then remove the piece above that to get access to the place that the ignitor plugs into. Unfortunately the wires were too short, but so were the ones that were on the current ignitor so I used the extension from the existing ignitor and cut off the plug of the new one to attach the extension. Once that was done, just reinstalled the ignitor and we reversed the process. The new one works incredibly well. Instead of waiting several minutes for the oven to start heating up, it heats up instantly. What a relief...much cheaper than buying a brand new stove. This one works great now!! Thank you parts select!!
I removed the oven door by removing two screws, one above each hinge. With the door screws removed, position the door to the slightly open position and lift strength up to remove. Remove wire racks and the cover from the bottom of the oven. Remove the heat deflector which is held on with a single nut. Remove the screws that hold the cavity that houses the igniter and the burner. The igniter is held in place by a protective bracket that has to be reused. I slid the old igniter out of the protective bracket and then removed the cavity by allowing the burner and igniter to exit through an opening in the rear of the cavity. The drawer (broiler pan storage) had to be removed to remove the two screws to an access panel that allowed access to the igniter connector. After disconnecting the old igniter, I fished the new igniter connector through the back of the oven to connect it. I use masking tape to hold the access panel in place while reinserting and tightening the two screws. Replace the cavity that houses the igniter and burner. Slide the protective cover over the igniter. Realign and secure the burn and igniter assembly by reinserting and tightening the necessary screws. Reinserting and tighten the screws around the igniter/burner cavity. Replace the heat deflector by tightening the nut. Replace the cover that covers the bottom of the oven and the wire racks. Reinsert the drawer. Slide the door over the hinges and reinsert and tighten the two screws.
Disconect power source; Remove oven racks, remove storage drawer under oven; remove floor of oven, remove flame deflector, remove three screws holding igniter cage and unplug faulty igniter. Reverse all steps for reassembly.
It was Tuesday before thanksgiving, panic as there was a big bird looking for a hot stove, unplug stove from its electrical supplyturn off gas, not necessary but sometimes it's good to be safe.inside oven remove bottom splash cover "pull towards you and lift out, then remove flame pan, one nut in the center, remove and lift out flame pan.The oven ignitor was to the left of the burner, with 3 philips screws one attached to buner and the other two to the back of the stove, remove all three.The ignitor is now loose, remove bottom drawer and behind is a plate attched to the back of the stove with two screw, the screws are facing you as you look in where the drawer was, remove screws and plate to access the plug attatching the ignitor to its power supply .go back to the oven and remove ignitor.install new, feed plug through back, and put it all back together."ignitor very delicate, handle with care"I am also not the biggest of guys and it can be awkward getting in the drawer space as you need both hands to plug it back in, so tilting the stove back, keeping safety in your thoughts at all times, would be a must for most people.
Remove the racksremove one nut that holds the heat deflector3 screws that hold the igniterremove the drawerremove 2 screws holding a heat shield in place.unplug old igniter and reinstall
My repairman told me it was probably the ignitor (even though the old one sitll glowed), but after weeks of waiting for his back-ordered part, I decided to try it myself - found it on PartSelect and had it 3 days later. Turned off the power to the oven. Slid out the 2 racks, and the cover below the racks. Unscrewed 1 nut and removed the V shaped metal plate that distributes the heat. Under that removed 3 screws that hold the ignitor clip in place and got the igniter out of the clip. I couldn't get to the plug on the other end of the ignitor until I took out the oven drawer and removed 2 screws holding a metal cover in place below the oven. Reversed the whole process being careful with the end of the new ignitor (I read it was fragile). The oven now heats up in 5 minutes and maintains temperature again!
I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled). The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.
looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task . of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.
WEB research indicated that even though ignitor would glow, that it was likely faulty. Turned off power at circuit breakerRemove shelves and bottom plate from inside oven.Unscrew deflector plateRemove drawer under stoveRemove ignitor and unplug from connectorreplace ignitor, plug in, reassemble stove.Needed flashlight to see under stove.
First I had to take the drawer completely out of the stove to reach the igniter. I then removed the screws that held the igniter in place and removed it. I had to slightly modify the replacement part by squeezing it together to make it fit into the same space. I put the replacement igniter in place and screwed it down; put the drawer back in the stove and turned on the over to see if it would light. Bingo, job done!
Simple install - 6 -7 screws one nut. Once replaced oven worked good as new. Part shipped from PartSelect actually better than one installed by repairman 4 years ago - fit like an original part.Thanks PartSelect.com
I pulled the ckt breaker, removed the oven drawer and disconnected the igniter. I opened the oven door and unscrewed the igniter holding bracket and removed the bracket and igniter. I broke the old igniter element when removing it from the bracket. When installing the new igniter in the holding bracket I broke the ceramic element. REALLY BE CAREFUL. Ordered a new igniter, very carefully installed it in the bracket, then rversed the removal process. It's not hard, you just have to be careful
Removed the oven racks for room to work.Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up).Remove winged cover plate.See igniter assembly.Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily).The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out.Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable).Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage.Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires.Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation.The part number should be on the igniter.I did not bother matching the part number.Just matched the stove brand and model.The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable.I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else.Just reverse the removal process.Just takes a little time and patience.Very very doable.Good luck.
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