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PartSelect Number PS11740951
This flat style gas oven igniter has ceramic housing and comes with a connector. The igniter body is just over three inches in length. Be very careful to not touch the black element part of this igniter as it is very fragile.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Checked lower oven burner for a problem. Oven Ignitor looked like it was glowing and working properly but the gas valve would not open to let the gas flow to burner. I had read on a forum that just because the oven ignitor looks good does not mean it is creating the proper resistance to open the gas valve. So I took my chances and replaced the ignitor (because it was cheaper than the gas valve) and now the oven works like new.
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I removed the cover over the flame diffuser, then removed the single nut holding the diffuser to the burner assembly. After removing the three screws from the igniter assembly I found I couldn't reach the connector for the igniter.I removed the storage tray underneath and found a cover towards the rear of the oven with two screws. After removing this piece I could easily disconnect the igniter. It was a bit difficult replacing this shield as it had to fit between two other pieces on the side towards the front of the oven.I slid the guard from the old igniter and put it on the new piece and just reversed the procedure. Relatively easy and saved me a bundle!
Broiler Igniter:Disconnected stove from electricityRemoved the two screws that hold the broiler igniter assemblyPulled asembly out to expose ceramic wire nutsRemoved ceramic wire nuts and save themRemoved broiler igniter assembly (broiler igniter & brolier mounting bracket are assembled together)Loosened screws/nuts that hold the broiler igniter to the brolier mounting bracketRemove old broiler igniterCarefully inserted new brolier igniter into the broiler igniter bracketPlace the brolier igniter bracket into position. Make sure you look at the diagram provided so the position is correct. There is a "up" & "down" side to the broiler igniterTightened screws & bolts on broiler igniter bracketReconnected the ceramic wire nuts Inserted two mounting screws and tightenedFinished.Oven Igniter:Removed oven doorRemoved bottom oven drawerRemoved nut that holds heat shield/disperser in placeRemovedheat shield/disperserRemoved all oven tray screwsremoved oven burnerdisconnected oven igniterdisconneted oven igniter assemblyinserted new oven igniterreassembled
I opened the oven and cleared the racks;removed the cover of the oven heating area;took off the nut holding the blast shield on;removed all the screws holding the drip tray on;some were quite rusty and fell out in my hand;removed the 2 screws holding the igniter in; and the one scew that allows adjustment;pulled out the igniter and noticed the old one was connected with wire nuts while the new one had a module plug;cut off the module plug and stripped back the wires;applied the wire nuts;stuck the wires back in tjhe hole and screwed it all back together-done,I must say the best part of the repair was googling the problem "amana oven ignition troubleshooting" and getting a helpful discussion of the problem and a solution and a link to the parts suply house, It couldn't have been simpler. I got the part 2 days after ordering it online.
Bought new igniter based on advice from other stories here. Didn't test the impedance. The igniter glowed, but the oven wouldn't start.1. Removed single nut on flame pan & remove pan.2. Removed Pan drawer and disconnected plug to igniter.3. Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place.Note: the screws were corroded & one stripped in removal - you may want to purchase the metal housing for the igniter assuming it comes with new screws.4. Put everthing back in opposite order.
Get to the ignitor:Open oven, clean out the crude, and remove the bottom pan to get to the gas parts.Remove the nut to get the flame sheild off.Remove screws that hold the ignitor.I stripped one and had to pry it off with a strait slot screw driver while turning it with a phillips.Unplugging the ignitor:Pull out the drawer. Removed the 2 panels under the stove to access the ignitor plug.Replace the ignitor and reverse the procedure.I did remove about 20 screws and the main pan at the bottom of the inside of the oven, but it didn't help me do anything, so don't make the mistake that i made with that.
Unplug oven cord from wall receptical,Remove bottom drawer from oven,Remove sheet metal plate from rear of oven to gain access to the ignighter connection,Disconnect old ignighter connection,Removed the pan on the bottom of the inside of the oven,Removed the hex nut on the top of baffle plateRemove baffle plate,Remove (2) screws holding ignighter in place,Replace the ignighter and all other commponnents in reverse order
After reading previous posts regarding this type of problem, I determined the very high likelyhood that the over ignitor needed to be replaced. Accessing the underneath of the oven compartment, I removed the metal shield covering the ignitor wires in order to unplug the ignitor. (Be sure to disconnect power cord first)From inside of the oven compartment remove the flame spreader plate ( 1-screw) which gives access to the ignitor. Remove the three screws holding the ignitor bracket and pull the wire and plug through. That's it !! Installation of the new ignitor is the reverse of the above proceedure.Oven now functions normally again.A very simple repair.
i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.
I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a way to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.
Replacing the igniter itself was a simple matter a few screws holding its housing and then plugging the new one into the connector. Difficulty came trying to figure out how to access the igniter. Disassembling the floor of the oven was a dead end involving many screws. Pulling the unit out from the wall was a big job and another failure. The problem was solved with the removal of the drawer. Underneath, in the rear was a sheet metal plate held by 2 screws. Behind that hung the igniter connection. Voila! Job done.
Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal may not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.
Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls the broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.
1. Removed drawer2.Removed back panel (2 screws).3. Disconnected power line from old igniter4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter.5. Replaced with new igniter.Works like new.
Took bottom oven pan off accessed through oven storage drawer.Removed a few screws holding the igniter bracket,removed igniter from its holder(Be really,really careful doing this procedure because the igniter tip is verrrrry fragile,ask me how I know)Put it all back together and Voila,it works!This is so easy a job a caveman can do it! Good luck!
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