Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
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★★★★★
★★★★★
Peter C - December 30, 2021
Verified Purchase
Droped motor to remove pump washer running good now.
Perfect fit for a fair price !
★★★★★
★★★★★
Linda F - December 10, 2018
Verified Purchase
Perfect part; worked as expected
Received my part quickly. Repairs were easy. Washer up and running again!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Dean Y - June 5, 2018
Verified Purchase
Correct part and fitment
Received within a few days and once installed washer was in working order
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.3 / 5.0, 12 reviews.
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
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My washer wouldn't agitate and there was a rubber burning smell
I was able to remove the belt because it was worn through. However, I was unable to remove the pump as described in the instructions because I was unable to get my torq wrench to the bolts. I ended up having a repairman come in.
Squeak and slight burning smell during spin cycle.
I took off the lower front panel and “watched” with a flashlight during the spin cycle. I could see that the idler pulley was intermittently stopping and starting. The back of the drive belt was also worn in the center. When the idler pulley was moving, it squeaked, when it didn’t, the friction wore the belt and made the smell.
... Read morer />To replace the Idler Pulley Wheel: 1. Take off the lower and upper front panels to access the motor assembly. 2. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. 3. Remove spring that applies tension to the idler pulley. 4. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab on top. 5. Remove hoses by gripping clamps with pliers (put down rags first to catch water) 6. Unhook belt from tub pulley 7. Remove 1 cabinet spring to make it easier to remove motor 8. Remove motor. 9. Remove allen screws holding the pump to the motor 10. Remove the pump and belt (take note of the location of the belt before removing). 11. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel (this was probably the trickiest part; I used a very tiny needle nose pliers and straight screwdriver). 12. Replace the washers on either side of the Idler Pulley Wheel as well as the retaining ring. 13. Replace belt. 14. Reassemble in reverse order. 15. Be thankful for the money you saved on a service call.
After turning on the machine set to the spin cycle and acertaining that the problem was not a switch or the motor the lower cover was removed (Two sheet metal hex head screws)with appropriate socket. The failure of the belt was self-evident, having sprayed itself in granuals, the belt itself having parted with easy removal. A search
... Read moreof the internet produced the order for drive belt, which arrived in a timely manner trough Fedex.
Replacing the belt was the most labor intensive part of the process. No mirror being available a CD was placed in the base of the machine in order to view what fasteners (Three torx head) fasened the pump to the motor assembly. Removal of the pump was necessary in order to replace the belt.
The removal of the fasteners required that three holes (120* angular spacing, 1/2" diameter, located on the pump fastener bosses) be drilled in the machine base in order to remove and replace. This required setting the machine on its side. (Tell the engineers to put an inspection plate there in order to negate having to drill the holes. Thankx.) Pump assembly was lowered off driveshaft and belt replaced. Tensioner set on belt after pump assembly fit to driveshaft and torx fasteners replaced and tightened. Machine powered up, checked for function. In use. Lower cover replaced. I'll be using your buisness for parts again, no doubt.
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Henry from Bradenton, FL
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Wrench set
4 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Upper Bearing sounded like jet taking off during spin cycle, burnt belt in half
Unplug and disconnect Power, Drain and h20 connections. Removed front panel, disconnected internal electricrical connections and capicitor from washer. Remove 11 (I think) screws connecting outer cover to base. Remove pull drain hose through the outer cover and hold the end lower that the washer to drain the excess h20. Remove the hoses f
... Read morerom the pump and outer tub. Remove outer cover from base exposing the guts. Grab the bottom of the agitator and pull up pretty hard. Agitator will pop off, watch your head. Remove the 4 bolts attaching the Inner tub to the hub. Remove seal from top of transmission spline. You will need a 38mm deep well socket to remove the nut from the top of the transmission. I used a socket and a impact wrench to remove the nut. Remove the teflon seal that is below the nut. You will need a puller and/or grinder to remove the hub from the transmission spline. My puller broke, so I ended up using an air grinder to cut a couple of pizza slices out of the hub. Then I used an air hammer to break the slices off of the hub. Once it is cut the cast aluminum is quite brittle. Pull what remains of the hub off of the transmission spline. Remove the bolts that connect the transmission housing to the outer tub. Remove the 3 bolts from the underside of the outer tub that connect the outer tub to the upper bearing. using a set of vice grips, grab the top of the springs that connect the outer tub to the base and carefully remove them one by one. The outer tub should slide right off. Remove the bearing from the transmission. Supplies that you will most likely need are the 3m800 sealant, when you get this you will only need a little around the bottom of the lip where the new seal attaches to the bottom of the outer tub. You will also want to get the Seal tool which will ensure that the seal that goes around the top of the transmission spline is seated properly. Assemble in reverse order but keep in mind to attach tub bolts prior to attaching the springs. Also keep in mind that both maytag and amana make a washer with the same model number LWA80AW. Check to see which one you are ordering for. The kits are different. Don't ask me how I know. Just make sure you get the correct kit the first time, it will save you a whole lot of head scratching.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
4 of 10 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Sweaking and then Burning
I had some sweaking and then burning followed. I came to find the belt had burnt and stopped my washer from working. Ordered a belt and replaced. Washer worked for one week. Squeaking and burning again. Belt was still intact, thank goodness. Beleive it is another pulley part for the washer. Might order another part. Overall the fi
... Read morex was good, but had another issue.
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Kristine from Montgomery, PA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
5 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The old belt burned up
1) removed front panels from washing machine 2) removed water pump. Three small torque bit screws and (2) hoses. 3) removed motor (because I realized that the belt tensioner also needed work as it was siezed) removed (4) bolts and an electical connector. 4) repaired tensioner by taking apart and cleaning bearing surface. Ne
... Read moreeded snap ring plyers to take apart. 5) put motor back in 6) replaced belt 7) put water pump back on 8) intalled front panels back on washer
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TOM from MERIDEN, CT
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
6 of 11 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Washer doesn't drain water during spin cycle
Thanks for very quick delivery and detailed instructions found on this site. I followed the step-by-step instructions and everything went as planned with one exception, I installed the V-belt in a wrong way after replacing the pump. Next time, I will mark or remember the way belt sits between the motor and the pump. I found a small
... Read moresock in the pump. Pump itself was still good (I think), but I installed new one along with new belt (just in case).
removed outer enclosure to expose inside workings. removed all retaining springs to tub and transmission housing. Inverted tub to access agitator pulley and belt. Removed pulley and cut belt off.(I knew I was replacing it, anyway.)Had to remove large tub bracket to exchange new pulley for old. Disconnect bleach reservoir filler tubing
... Read more on tub assembly. Disconnect power connector to drive motor. Removed water pump to access drive pulley where new belt belongs. Aligned belt to pulleys and checked idler pulley tension which was acceptable. Replace helix drive lug against spin/agitator and tightened retaining bolt. Assembled components in reverse order and conducted test run. Success. Smooth running machine and saved about $200 on professional labor costs. I had no repair manual but you should have a personal confidence in general repair work. Something like a history of taking things apart and putting them back together successfully. I had an independent appliance repair guy examine the washer and he said it was too complicated for him. Once I had it apart, it seemed fairly basic. Good luck!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
37 of 45 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Idler pully seperated from bushing
first I unplugged the electrical plug then I removed the lower covet by taking out the 5/16 screws. I then took out the 5/16 screws that hold the top part of the front cover and removed it. I then worked the belt off the aggitator pully and removed the hoses from the pump. I then used a 1/2 in soclet on long extension th remove the
... Read morefour bolts that hold the motor and pump assembly. I then worked the assembly out of the cabinate and using a long #20 torx bit I removed the pumfrom the housing. I removed the belt, then I removed the housing off the motor and replaced the Idler bracket with the idler pully. I then re-assembled it in the reverse of taking it apart. Works great with the new idler and belt. David Hilton
I takened the 4 bolts out of the motor assimbley, and droped the whole thing out where I could see the screws that held the water pump on, and I took them out, and lifted the water pump, and put the belt in place, and the new pully on , and the new spring in place. Then I reversed the proseger. It works like a new one.
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Brian
February 18, 2018
Hi planning to replace the belt and idler pulley on my Maytag washer (model sav515deww). The belt on the machine right now has the following part number stamped on it: 2200063. This is not listed as one of the belts replaced by partselect number ps11740577 / manufacturer part number wp27001006, so i'm seeking confirmation this is the right replacement belt for this machine model. Also want to confirm that this is the right idler pulley for this model machine: Partselect number ps11742250 / manufacturer part number wp40045001. Both have the check mark that they work with this model, but i previously bumped into a slight difference for another part based on serial number. Thanks!
For model number SAV515DEWW
Hi Brian,
Thank you for your question. The part number listed under your model number for the belt is PS11740577. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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