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PartSelect Number PS11740487
The metal retaining ring, which is under an inch long, holds the rear wheels on the axels of the dryer. The main reason why it would need to replaced is if the retaining ring has sprung out of place or is damaged. Some the symptoms could be that your dryer does not tumble, it makes a loud buzzing noise, or if it pumps, but will not spin. The tools needed for this project are a putty knife, 5/16 nut driver, and snap ring pliers. Refer to the installation video and diagram for further instructions and guidance. Customers ranked this replacement project as easy.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all.
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I removed the covers, released the belt, pulled the drum, replaced rollers, glides, idler pulley and motor. The motor was the main issue but I replaced the rollers, idler and glides while I was in there. My biggest challenge was the clips that hold the motor in place. The hooked over a metal ear. I was able to use a big strait slot with downward pressure to release and reinstall. The illustratations on the web site made ordering the correct part easy and the part fit perfectly so this repair job could have been accomplshed by anyone with very basic mechanical understanding.Thank you
Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)
I am a widow. Had to pay for labor. He said it was motor. I said I would think about it. I looked on line at your site. Found symptoms that pointed toward idler pulley wheel with bearing, etc. Your site said: ZERO PERCENT CHANCE LOUD SCREECHING WAS MOTOR! So I ordered all parts above. I called repairman to return; he assured me he tried it enough to be assured it was motor bearings. So, I placed another order with you for a motor. Repairman just installed motor, screeching is gone! We installed the belt, pulley, etc..few of the above parts since dryer is old. PLEASE UPDATE YOUR WEBSITE TO INCLUDE MOTOR (BEARING) AS POSSIBILITY FOR LOUD SCREECHING.
The pully wheel was completely worn down as the belt had cut into it over time. I'm not sure if the lever and shaft needed replacing but since the part was inexpensive I decided to replace it as well as the wheel. The easiest way to access the parts was to turn the dryer on its side and remove the bottom panel of the dryer. This eliminated the need to remove the drum. It was then easy to reach in with a wrench and remove nut and bolt that held on the pulley lever. I also had to remove the spring which was attached to the lever. Next I put the new pully wheel on the shaft of the new pulley lever. The most difficult part of the job was installing retainer clip which holds the wheel on the shaft. This took a little persistance. After this was done it was simple to put the assembly back in place, reattach the spring and tighten the nut and bolt. I then replaced the bottom panel of he dryer, turned it upright and plugged it in. The whole job took just over an hour. One tip: Before removing the old assembly, I took a picture of it with my cell phone camera so I would remember how it went back together.
Removed the two sheet metall screws on the front foot panel, removed the four screws holding the door assembly, wrote down the wiring placement for the front door, removed the blower bulkhead assembly by removing one screw in the bottom of the dryer. Removed two screws and propped the dryer top panel up at a 45 degree angle to gain additional clearance. Removed the drum and belt from the front and back seals by applying simple outward pressure. Removed the screw in the bottom of the motor assembly allowing me to reposition the assembly for easy access. Removed bolt holding old Idler arm assembly. Assembled new Idler pulley referring to old assembly. Reversed the process to complete the repair. Note: I found it easier to simply hang the dryer belt over the dryer drum when replacing the drum in the dryer. First you need to place and align the drum then route the belt back to the moter pulley and then over the idler pulley. if you try to put the belt over the motor and then align the drum, it is difficult to keep the belt on the pulley. It might help to draw a diagram of the belt route or obtain the belt route diagram from the website for reference. Very easy job.
first I unplugged the electrical plug then I removed the lower covet by taking out the 5/16 screws. I then took out the 5/16 screws that hold the top part of the front cover and removed it.I then worked the belt off the aggitator pully and removed the hoses from the pump. I then used a 1/2 in soclet on long extension th remove the four bolts that hold the motor and pump assembly. I then worked the assembly out of the cabinate and using a long #20 torx bit I removed the pumfrom the housing. I removed the belt, then I removed the housing off the motor and replaced the Idler bracket with the idler pully. I then re-assembled it in the reverse of taking it apart. Works great with the new idler and belt.David Hilton
I took off the lower front panel and “watched” with a flashlight during the spin cycle. I could see that the idler pulley was intermittently stopping and starting. The back of the drive belt was also worn in the center. When the idler pulley was moving, it squeaked, when it didn’t, the friction wore the belt and made the smell.To replace the Idler Pulley Wheel: 1. Take off the lower and upper front panels to access the motor assembly. 2. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. 3. Remove spring that applies tension to the idler pulley. 4. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab on top. 5. Remove hoses by gripping clamps with pliers (put down rags first to catch water) 6. Unhook belt from tub pulley 7. Remove 1 cabinet spring to make it easier to remove motor 8. Remove motor. 9. Remove allen screws holding the pump to the motor10. Remove the pump and belt (take note of the location of the belt before removing).11. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel (this was probably the trickiest part; I used a very tiny needle nose pliers and straight screwdriver).12. Replace the washers on either side of the Idler Pulley Wheel as well as the retaining ring.13. Replace belt.14. Reassemble in reverse order.15. Be thankful for the money you saved on a service call.
Remove bottom and top front panel to access motor. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. Remove spring that applies pressure to the Idler pulley wheel. Pull out electrical connector by pressing on the tab on top. Remove rubber hoses by gripping clamps with pliers. Unhook belt from pulley at bottom of tub. Pull out motor. Push upward and inward the top of the tub to make pulling out the motor easier. Remove allen screws that secure the plastic pump housing so you can remove the belt. Replace belt. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel, remember to order replacement washers, mine was brittle and disintegrated so had to remove the second one from the bottom and used only one each side, seems to work fine. Reassemble everything in reverse order. It now purrs like a kitten, wife is now happy doing the laundry, I get to ride my motorcycle this weekend at the Los Angeles Crest Highway carving the canyons, whoohoo! Life is good.
Pulled motor, as the belt will not come off unless you take to water pump off off the motor. Installed new idler wheel, washers, clips and belt. Reinstalled motor.Works good and hopefully lasts a long time!
pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.
1-Unplugged drier2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws***** at this point the drum is exposed *****6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller. 9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws10- reinstall new roller support11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part! 14-repeat for the other drum roller.**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it ***** 15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.16-re-plug the drier and test
I was somewhat intimidated by the fact that dryers are all repaired from the front. Pulling out the drum seemed scary at first, but that turned out to be very easy. After removing the front panel and lint shroud it is easy to reach the idler pulley and take the tension off the belt. If you're going to replace the rollers which is generally the cause of the noise, get new retaining wrings and a decent pair of pliers for them. The rings can lose all their spring easily by strechting them too far to get them off. Replace the idler pulley and belt while you have the dryer apart. Vacuum all the lint out of there and you're good to go.
Removed all of the front outer bolts holding in the lower plate, front door assembly, drum outer frame and drum. While removing the outer sheel there are colored wire connections that activate the linterior light and door sensors in which I marked the interior sheel with a marker so I knew which wire went where. Before removing the drum I drew a sketch on how the belt is ran thru the pullys and around the drum, so I would have no problem reinstaLLING IT.The rooler bracket was easily removed with a socket wrench and the retaining wring was pried with a pliers. Reinstallation of the shaft, roller and ring were as simple as removal. I then cleaned the entire interior and lint basket for optimal performance. The most difficult part is pulling the belt back around the drum, but still not very difficult. Finally I reattached nall removed parts as they were removed and I now have a like new dryer for about $20.00 vs, buying anew one or repair fees costing Hundred$ OF DOLLERS.Thanks Partsselect.com Again!
1.Unplug unit(gas model, did not shut off) 2. Remove bottom front panel-2bolts3 Remove main front panel-2 bolts (no need to remove door)4. Make note of wire colors on door switch and light, disconnect5. Remove 3 screws that hold air duct assembly(that lint filter rests in) then set main front panel aside 6. Remove lower air duct (to blower motor)-3 bolts7. Lift and tilt-up top lid/panel of dryer and wedge wood or ? (this will give you easy access and better light)8. Reach back behind motor to move idler pulley and remove belt from motor & idler pulley9. Remove 4 bolts and lift up and out front bulkhead frame that holds drum in place10. Slowly pull straight out & slightly up entire drum11. Remove circlip/retaining ring, washer, roller, washer and shaft assembly.12. Vacuum entire unit 13. Light lubricant on shaft when reinstall in reverse order.Snap ring pliers and a mental note of how the belt is routed on idler will prevent unwanted profanity.This is an inferior/substandard unit before Maytag bought them. Spend the money and replace both rollers with new shafts (about 50.00). I have spent over 140.00 in parts to keep this unit running (less than 8 years old). So do the math before you start pouring money into this model.
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