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PartSelect Number PS11740482
This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found on dryers around the drum support rollers and idler pulleys, and helps prevent the rollers and pulleys from bumping up against the brackets they are installed on. Your thrust washer could be defective if you notice your dryer wont tumble, rotate, or turn; or there is a load squealing or whining noise when the dryer tumbles. The repair is a relatively easy job. You will require a putty knife, 5/16 inch nut driver, and E-Ring pliers. Remember to disconnect the power to your dryer before you begin the repair.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Loud squealing noise coming from the idler pulley. The pulley was not spinning freely on the shaft of the idler pulley lever to the point of putting a groove in the pulley and damaging the belt. To fix the problem replaced the belt, idler pulley, and idler pulley lever. Because I had the dryer apart also replace the following items. Drum support roller and drum slides.
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I researched on this site as well as a few other sites for the possible cause of the problem as I am not experienced in appliance repairs nor very experienced in being a handy man. Someone told me dryers out of all appliances are the easiest ones to repair. I agree now. I recommend taking a look at your rollers first as it is easy to get to prior to ordering all your parts so that you can get all your parts at once. I first removed the front lower panel (4 screws), carefully removed the plastic vent from lint screen to outside venting which is just held in place, then removed upper front panel which included the door (4 screws/hex), removed 4 screws/hex holding top panel on and just lifted it up and proped it up and then I pulled out drum. I was able to see the two rollers at the bottom at this point. My left roller which was over the gas heat exchanger was so badly worn I could just pull it off. Here is where if I had inspected it before ordering the parts, I would have found the roller arm needed to be replaced too. Replacing the rollers you need to pull the retaining rings off which requires the retaining ring pliers. Slide the retaining rings off and then pull off the old rollers. I replaced the rollers and thrust washers on both sides, replaced the retaining rings and vacuumed out the entire dryer underneath then replaced everything in reversed order. Twenty minutes to replace these and we now have a quite dryer and I have a very happy wife. Well, I'm very happy that I only spent $30 to fix a dryer instead of probably over $100 for a repair man to do.
Disconnect power. First, remove the lower front panel, then the upper front panel (disconnect door switch wiring). Remove two screws holding the top panel to the left and right side panels. Remove wiring connections to light and humidity sensor. Remove four screws to front drum support assembly, lift up to disengage tangs, and remove assembly. Reach in and find the idler assembly for the drum drive belt, and unwrap the belt to loosen it, also removing the belt from the motor pulley.. Slide the drum out the front of the dryer along with the drive belt. Remove the snap ring (using snap ring pliers) and washer holding the idler pulley on to the idler assembly. Remove the idler pulley. Polish the shaft with fine steel wool to get rid of dirt. Clean thoroughly, leaving no steel wool residue. Install replacement pulley, washer, and snap ring. Reinstall drum, taking care to feed belt back into place as the drum is reinstalled. Reach in and wrap the belt around the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Reinstall the front drum support by lifting the drum slightly to allow the support to engage with the drum, and then drop it down to re-engage the tabs into the left and right side panels while reseating it into the blower intake. Install the four screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the wiring for the light and the humidity sensor. Attach the top panel to the left and right side panels with one screw for each side. Reinstall the upper front panel, including reattaching the wiring to the door switch, with two screws. Finally, reinstall the lower front panel. Reconnect to the power source, and you should be good to go.
Unplugged dryer removed the front, removed & marked the wires. Removed the drum & drive belt. Removed the snap ring on front of roller with a pgtai awl.Removed the wheel & worn washers, removed the nut on the back of the roller shaft. reppaced it all in reversed proceedure. Other than a few little scrapes on the knuckles it was Quite easy.
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....
Identified Problem by using silicone spray on drum bearing wheels, when noise stopped I knew bearings were bad. Removed drum per PartsSelect diagram of my dryer then removed wheels, and bearing shaft.Will need a snap ring pliers with small holes to remove snap rings. I ordered new shafts, washers,snap rings,drum wheels, and belt. Installing belt use two hands and make sure tension bar is correct review belt locations before repair. Also cleaned and vacumned inside of Dryer. Remember to unplug, I did not and when door was removed I caused a short that blew fuse, lucky that I did not damage dryer in process. Working well now with no nose.
Took the dryer apart, replace parts....put back together....all is well...until I tried to put the belt back on and broke the belt tensioner. Had to put a rush on that order
Unscrew front, detach electrical, tilt back top, remove drum. remove retaining ring and glide, replace ring and guide remove old felt seal, adhere new felt seal with contact cement, remove what was left of felt pads, replace pads and new glides, reassemble.
I followed the belt replacement video and voila, the job was done!
Removed the front dryer panels (lower & upper), front drum support and drum. This gave me easy access to the idler pulley and tension spring. I also took the opportunity to vacuum all of the lent that had collected over the years. After installing the new parts and aligning the belt, I reassembled the panels, plug it in and it worked like a champ! Locating the parts on your website was fast and easy. I appreciate it and thank you.
when i first heard the noise i thought it was the belt. after changing that i still heard the noise but louder. so i took off the bottom face plate took off the door and the bracket holding the tumbler then took out the tumbler to see what was wrong. being a 6' 4" 250lbs it was hard for me to see what was behind the motor. i finally saw that the idler wheel had come half way off of the lever. I changed the pulley lever, pulley wheel and all the washers. it was fairly simple. and when done the noise was gone. it only costed me about $15 which made me happy cheap fix.
Disconnect the dryer from the electrical source. Using a nut driver, first remove the 2 screws of the lower panel and release the panel. Next remove 4 screws of the door panel and then remove the electrical connections to the door (6 wires). Remember to mark the wires prior to removing so you will remember were it plugs back in on reassembly. Remove the door panel. Then remove the 2 screws holding the top of the dryer and tilt the top open about 90 degrees to access the tumbler. Remove the belt by sliding off the tumbler. Remove the tumbler. You will then access the pulley. Using a pair of pliers, remove the retaining ring by pulling upwards. Then remove the washer and the pulley. Replace the parts with the new pulley, washer and retaining ring. This time would be a good time to replace the belt too. Thread the belt through the pulley and over the tumbler. Place the top back and screw in place. Reassemble the door wiring and reattach the door with the 4 screws. Reassemble the lower panel and plug the dryer back into the outlet and test. There should be no more noise if the noise is coming from the pulley and loose belt.
I first removed the screws on the bottom section of the dryer. Then I removed the face/door remembering how the two wires on the dryer were hooked up. After that there are two screws that allow the top to flip up on some megshift hinges. this reveals the drum and the guts of the machine. Reaching under the drum I disconnected the belt by pulling the tension wheel down to release the pressure on the belt. Once that is done you can just pull out the drum. The rollers are on the back wall. You have to remove the lock washers on each wheel (provided you change both((I recommend)). Then the rollers just pull off. Remove the the two screws (1/4 in) . It's just a reversal from there. Always clean up all the lent/debris with a vacuum while your there. It's just a good thing to do. Thats it. good luck
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer, I then removed the 2 screws on the lower cover,removed the cover, then removed the 2 screws for the door and un pluged the wires for the safet switch.and removed the door. I then removed the 4 screws that held the front durm support and removed it with the air ducting attached, I removed the 2 screws that hold the top of the dryer so that I could lift it as needed. I unhooked the belt from the tensioner and removed the belt and drum, I removed the snap rings and old rollers to give me access to the mounting bolts for the roller axels, and removed them. The drum had a flat spot from the worn out rollers that a few taps with a rubber mallet fixed. then usins the new parts reassembled the rollers, Installed the drum with a new drive belt. the bolted down the top the top, At this time I rolled the drum to make sure the belt and tensioner were ok. Then front support and ducting , the door ( remember to reattach the door safety switch wire ) and lower panel were bolted back into place. The dryer runs and sounds like new.
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