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PartSelect Number PS11739740
The circulation pump assembly, used in a free-standing ice maker, delivers water from the water tank over the top of the evaporator plate. It does this to form the ice that drops onto the cutting grid. The first step in installing this part is to remove the chute, ice scoop bracket, water pan, and head cap screw that holds the plastic cover over the pump. Refer to the manufacturer-approved installation instructions for further guidance and accuracy. Make sure to disconnect and unplug the ice maker from the power source before installing the circulation pump. Remember to wear gloves to protect your hands.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This ice maker is really a Kitchenaid appliance.1. Remove all ice and drain water pan by removing drain cap.2. Disconnect waterline and unplug ice maker3. Set icemaker on a work bench unless you like working on your knees, head down.4. Remove flip out chute and ice scoop bracket.5. Remove water pan by removing thumb screws6. Remove single 1/4" head cap screw that holds plastic cover over pump.7. Remove discharge hose from pump. Pull clear plastic 1/8" diameter water supply line from notch in left edge of pump base.8. Remove three cap screws holding pump. Two are visible. The third one is behind the pump and requires an 8" extension on the socket.9. After the three screws are removed the pump drops down. The electric connection must be unplugged. Pinch the tabs on either side to release the plug.10. Reverse procedure to install new pump. Unless you have really small hands or love being frustrated, don't bother to reinstall the third screw that is behind the pump. The pump stays in place just fine without that screw.11. After reinstalling the icemaker, clean thoroughly by washing all inside surfaces with a strong bleach solution.12. Run a cleaning cycle with one quart of strong bleach solution in the water tray. At the conclusion of the cleaning cycle, drain the water tray. Place unit into service. DON'T FORGET TO CLEAN REGULARLY. If the water supply is not chlorinated molds and algae will develop in recirculation hose.
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I removed the cutter cover in the front of the ice maker (3 screws), than removed the circulating pump cover (1 screw). Remove the drain tube from the cover before removing the cover from the icemanker. The drain tube is removed by pulling straight down and twisting. Remove the circulating pump, utilizing the 4 inch extension (3 screws). Reinstalled all in reverse. Note: install a plug in the drain hole in the bottom of the ice maker (paper towel etc). I dropped a screw on the installation and it fell in the drain hole. It did not impede the drain flow. It has now found a new home.
Unplugged ice maker from power source. Removed water reservoir using wing nut driver. Removed pump cover using nut driver. Removed water hose from pump discharge. Removed wiring harness from pump. Removed small water fill hose from pump bracket. Removed 3 screws holding pump assembly using nut driver. Replaced pump in reverse order. Plugged in ice maker and watched it begin to fill with ice within the hour. A very straightforward repair. Saved myself about $500 compared to the estimate that Sears gave me.
In pre-replacement of the circulation pump, i had read a story about how to make sure you cover the drain hole to prevent hardware from falling down it. Well I followed the instructions in doing so by covering the hole with a paper towel. After removing the pump i noticed some build up behind it. So like any other person i cleaned it up, and i just happened to use the paper towel covering the hole. Im sure you know what im going to tell you next. When replacing the pump i dropped a screw and yes down the drain it went. After a few laughs between my boss and I, I had to share this. When you block the drain with something leave it THERE until the job is done.
Water was not being drawn from the reservoir to the evaporator plate, so I concluded that the recirculation pump had failed. I first unplugged the machine from electrical power. To improve access to the pump, I removed the cutter grid using a nut driver and squeezing the electric connections to separate them. I also removed the reservoir, first removing the drain pipe by pulling it downward and the using pliers to loosen the thumbscrews until I could turn them by hand. I then thoroughly cleaned both the cutter grid and the reservoir to improve performance once the repair was done. The pump is covered by a solid plastic screen attached by just one nut, which is removed easily with the nut driver. The pump itself is attached with three screws which are easily removed with the nut driver and by an electrical connection which loosens by squeezing. Indeed, Upon examination, i found that the pump shaft was stuck solid and did not turn freely, explaining why it did not work. Replacing the pump, reattaching the three screws and reattaching the electric connection was pretty easy except for the right rear screw behind the pump which was hard to reach to guide the screw without a trick up my sleeve. The trick was to wrap scotch tape around the screw and the nut driver so that I could guide the screw one-handed. Once the screw threaded through a few turns, I jerked back the nut driver, pulling the tape off the screw. I then removed the tape from the nut driver and continued to tighten that screw and the rest, and then reattached the electrical connection. I then reattached the screen, the reservoir and the cutter grid, then plugged my machine back into the electric circuit and was pleased to watch it hum back to life, good as new and performing better than it was before the pump had failed.
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