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PartSelect Number PS11739520
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Disconnect power to washer, remove H & C water hoses attached to water valve inlet (for me this was the hardest part of the whole job...hard to get to and a bit tight.) Remove washer top by depressing 2 spring loaded clamps (located between the top and the cabinet about two inches from each edge A flashlight can help you locate the clips.) with a screw driver (recommend using a shim to keep top up after first clip is released until you can release second). Lift up forward end of top, lift back of top off of hinges, and slide top forward on cabinet so you can access water valve. Remove and note position of electrical connections to water valve. Remove one screw holding the plastic fixture surrounding valve and one screw holding valve bracket. Install new valve, reconnect electrical, re-install top, reconnect hoses and you're all set.
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Turn off water and unplug washer. Use putty knife to release the catches in order to lift the top. Remove the screw that holds the entire assembly to the back of the washer. Pull the valve assembly forward in order to make the remaining repairs easier. Next remove the screw that allows you to separate the front water difuser from the valve bracket. The last is a phillips screw that holds the valve/solenoid to the mounting bracket. Reverse these steps to install the new part.
Removed washer top by depressing spring loaded clamps with a screw driver. Tricky part was determining location of clamps so that I knew where to insert screw driver; (I used diagrams of my model found on the Internet). With top lifted up, I located water control valve and removed brackets and plastic fixture surrounding it. Was careful to disconnect electronic wiring into valve. Then removed hoses and replaced with new part. Most of the time spent was diagnosing problem, determining plan for getting access to part, and reassembling without losing parts down in tub area. Saved an estimated $150-250 by doing it myself.
Just installed the valve 7-18-2010.Removed electrical plug from the wall and closed the water supply valve. Removed supply hoses. Had to use pliers to get into recessed connections. Bad design. Raised lid using narrow putty knife to release clips under lid on corners. Removed connectors from solonoids, marking their positions, and set aside wires to prevent pinching or slicing them accidentally. Opened chute by depressing tabs on both sides. Removed the only screw in the water chute on left side and depressed the tab beneath other side to slide chute off. Removed single screw on left side holding valve bracket and slid bracket out of slot on right side. Removed screw from bracket holding valve in place. Reversed order to reassemble.This is the second valve replaced in this five year old Maytag along with one transmission at two and one half years old. This new valve appears to be leaking through at this writing but I'm running the washer through a cycle to see if it will then seal tight. Will post follow up if possible.P.S. Valve is holding as of 8-5-2010.
Doing this repair was a breeze. After disconnecting the power and water I popped the lid and it was 3 screws and 2 wire connectors. Reassembled and done. This was beyond cost effective to do and with simple look see at a diagram anyone with basic mechanical know how and some basic tools could do this.
Parts look up was simple. part was priced right. part received in a timely manner and was as advertised. installation was quick and painless.
followed directions you gave. Simple
Very simply put a screwdrive under the top and lift up off the clips and lay it back will expose the Water Inlet Valve,take the 2 screws off,pull the 2 water lines off,2 electrical wires and thats it.
Easy repair replacing the water valve assembly. Good advise from other posts helped much.
Phil job can be done by a baby. Hardest part of the job is to open the top of the washing machine. I was an h. V,a. C. Tect for 46 years.
Removed top, valve and water hoses. Replaced valve then reversed the process. Easy change out. Saved $100 service call.
Repair was easy...The hardest part was manhandling the machine where I could work on it. I loosened the retaining bolts around the back, sprung the retaining clips, and slowly pried the top off the front of the washer to finally get the entire top off. After that, it was a matter of reverse engineering it and removing the bad part without breaking anything else! After about 20 minutes, I had removed the valve assembly, and the new one went on much faster. It took about half the time to put it all back together, and it worked beautifully! The best part was saving the exhorbitant amount of money that a service company would have charged me to install the part, while probably breaking something else in the process! My wife was so happy...
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