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PartSelect Number PS11739438
This washing machine drive belt is used with some clothes washers. This belt is all black in color and is made entirely of rubber.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Diconnected water lines, layed washer on its side, spun pulleys and pulled belt off at the same time, put the belt on in the same way. VERY simple
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Unplug machine, lift about 6 inches to remove drive belt. Able to reproduce squeal by rotating pump pulley by hand. Remove front panel by using screwdriver to release retainer springs on either top corner about 1.5 inches in from corner, no need to remove control panel for this. Lift top panel to access screws behind front cover and remove (be careful here as sheet metal has sharp edges), lean front panel forward and lift off. Release hose clamps and remove from pump (hose clamp on discharge is spring type, channel locks work well here), keep towel nearby as there will be some residual water in the hoses and pump. Remove 3 bolts from top of pump to remove. Lift pump straight up to remove. Installation is reverse of removal, belt can be installed without tools (at least on series 10) as the motor pivots easily, place belt on transmission pulley first, then on pump and motor last this way you can pivot motor and slowly rotate motor pulley to guide belt on. Very easy repair, just take your time and you should have no problems.
1 I opened the top of the washer found the top plastic rim piece broken due to the fact that it cracked while unbalanced one time. Which made it leak which ate away the rubber seal . The parts were here fast and they were the right ones. Great job and I will tell everyone about you thank you verry much.
After just over ten years of use (purchased in early 2001), my Maytag Atlantis started making an awful noise during the spin cycle. The noise was very loud and sounded like metal grating on metal. Looking through posts on partselect.com, I identified the problem as the drain pump and pulley. Looking under the washer I could see that where the pulley connected to the drain pump the metal was starting to fall apart. I ordered the drain pump with pulley and a washer belt. The belt didn't look overly worn, but I figured now was a good time to replace it. The parts arrived within a couple days, faster than I expected. I opened the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife about an inch in on each side to release the top which then easily clam-shells back. I removed the front panel by removing two screws in each corner. Using a few blocks of wood, I propped the washer up in the front so I could remove the drive belt. The motor is spring-loaded and is easily moved to allow for belt removal. Then I removed the two tubes that connect to the drain pump. The drain pump was quickly removed from the washer; only three nuts hold it in place. The new pump/pulley went back into place using the same three nuts. After reconnected the two tubes to the pump, I installed the new drive belt. I put the front panel back on, and seated the top back in place. Anxiously I watched and listened as the washer cycled through a load. To my relief, the problem was fixed. All told, it probably took about 15 minutes to make the repair, and with any luck I’ll get another ten years out of this washer.
Removed front and rear panels, removed belt, removed old springs, disconnected bleach and pump lines from tub and lifted entire tub/transmission assmebly from washer. Replaced snubber ring at bottom of transmission assembly by backing off screws just enough to allow old ring to be removed and new one to be installed. Replaced pump assembly by removing drain hose and three bolts. Installed in reverse order. Placed tub/trans assembly back into washer and installed new springs using vise grip pliers. Reconnected bleach line and pump lines to tub. Reinstalled fron and rear panels. Installed new belt on bottom side of washer. Piece of cake.
it was just 2 connections. i took off the ejection line and the drain line . put the new pump in place and made my 2 connections ..
Tipped the machine against the wall. This exposed the belt which is not inside the machine. Took the old belt off put the new one on.
Followed the instructions given by robert from simpsonville SC. The only extra procedure I had to do was to put a block of wood under the tub to push the shaft up to reinstall the E-clip. This was not as difficult as I thought it would be.
Couldn't have been easier.
Had to change the drain pump, the bearing was shot and was the reason for the noise and the eventual stopping/belt breakage....Watch the video on this site for the drain pump procedure it's very helpful....The drain pump swap-out was very easy...Two hose clamps and three small bolts and it was done in no time..I changed out the snubber ring while I was in there... I used vise-grips to grab the the springs for removal/installation and lifted whe whole drum out....Just as others on here have suggested just loosen the retainer screws holding the old snubber ring just enough to slip it out and the new one in...It's really that easy...The toughest part is dealing with the springs and one piece of advice I can offer is to start with the hardest to reach first and save the easiest for last upon reassembly...Put it all back together and installed the new belt...DONE !!! Works like a champ !!!
Lifted lid, removed front cover,put assembly up on blocks, removed belt from underneath, replaced pump thru the front,installed new belt from underneath. Works good now. Thanks for the quick parts shipment and ordering was easy.
I pulled off the front cover and started the machine up to determine where the noise was coming from. I was amazed when I opened the front panel as there's only really 2 things it could have been, either a motor or the pump. Both looked easy to replace. Once I started the machine up without the front panel it was easy to determine where the noise was coming from. The pump was screeching so I knew that's where the problem was. It took about 5 minutes to remove the pump. Once I had it out I took it to the computer and looked up the part on partselect.com. It took about 10 minutes to find the correct part as there were 2 different series of pumps. I also ordered a belt because while I was down underneath the washer I figured I might as well change it. The parts arrived 4 days later and it was very easy to install the new pump. I figured I saved at least $125 by fixing it myself.
removed front door. removed one screw on wireharness cover. slid icemaker out. disconnected wireharness. removed bottom 3 remaining screws. reversed process to reinstall.
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