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PartSelect Number PS11739351
This dispenser bezel is twelve and a half inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
Door locked light did not come on and did not have 120 VAC across the Wax Motor. Also the Wax Motor did not extend out to make contact with the Door Lock, Spin Enable Switch. General guidance is to replace drive belt and to replace Wax Motor along with the Door Lock, Spin Enable Switches (total of two limit switches). This did not correct the problem. Checked for power and traced loss of power back to the Control Board where resistor R11 was found to be burnt out. Replaced Resistor with new Carbon Film unit, rating of 3.9 K-ohms, 1/4 W and 5%. As a prcaution, replace the Triac (manufactue part number NTE5657), component identified as Q6, rating of 0.8 Amp, 600 VAC. Semiconductor parts must be obtained from somewhere other than Parts Select (unable to find in the small town I live in, I located on the internet at Mouser.com). Unit works great now.
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Removed front door and front skin, tipped up top cover and replaced two front suspension springs (added grease lube onto spring hooks.) Tipped machine forward onto its front face, removed rear cover then removed rightside strut assembly. Installed new then removed left strut assembly. Installed new. Tightened all components. Repaired broken power wire to the remote pump. Tipped back upright, restored all skins and tested function. Washer was fully repaired with excellent cleaning results.
The replacement for the drive belt and dispenser bezel were part of a bigger job of changing the outer tub bearings. Those familiar with Maytag Neptune washers will experience the jet-taking-off sound when the tub seals wear and water gets into the bearings. While I would have the machine open I thought I would change the drive belt. I also noticed the dispenser bezel had two of the four mounting corners broken. Replacing the bearings was done. I purchased the bearings and rented a bearing puller made especially for this job After the bearing and seal replacement, I put on the new belt. It was almost straight forward. Almost because the belt didn't just slip on. The new belt is much smaller than the old belt. Not having the grip strength of Mr. Atlas, I was not able to hold the belt on the pulley rim while turning the pulley around, as the instructions say. The other thing that makes this difficult is that the ribs on the outer tub are quite close to the spokes of the pulley. I was not able to firmly grasp around the belt and pulley with one hand and turn the pulley with the other. My knuckles seemed to get in the way (ouch!).Being an electrical engineer, I happen to have cable ties handy. I used one to hold the belt on the pulley rim, and was able to turn the pulley with two hands (still watching out for my knuckles).For the dispenser bezel, I took the old dispenser lid and hinge pins off the old bezel by cutting the bezel between the hinge points, then transferred them on the new one.On the washer top cover, there was a lot rust around the dispenser opening. So before closing up the machine and installing the bezel, I removed the loose rust, then applied a rust converter. The rust converter was in an aerosol can, and since I was working on the washing machine inside the house and not wanting to make a mess, instead of spraying the cover, I sprayed onto a paper towel then dabbed the chemical onto the rusty spots. I finished with an appliance epoxy paint around the dispenser opening.I'd like to say I was impressed with the service from PartSelect. I ordered on Saturday, they shipped on Monday, and the parts arrived on Tuesday morning, and this was with standard shipping. On Thursday I was ready to put on the belt, but there was also a problem where one of the motor isolators was missing from the belt kit. I called in the shortage and they shipped the next day and the new belt kit arrive on Saturday. I noticed the shipment was from Fresno so they must have a warehouse there.So all in all, the drive belt and dispenser bezel were simple to install. Certainly they were the easiest parts of the job.
I took off the rear panel and removed the hose clamps and electrical terminals, slid pump out of slot in bottom pan of washing machine. It only took minutes, this was part of a major overhaul. I replaced this as a precautionary measure. Great prices and quick service,
Removed 4 screws holding dispenser frame. Removed old & installed new frame. Top, hinged lid needed to be slightly bowed so hinge pins could be fit in holes. End of repair.
First I removed the 4 screws that kept the bezel in place, removed the bezel. Replaced the new bezel, replaced screws, put new top pin in door and put door on.
The repair was only 4 screws.THE AMAZING STORY WAS I ORDERED THIS PART ON MONDAY AND RECEIVED IT ON WEDNESDAY!!!!!!
There was 4 screws that held the bevel in that still needed to be removed from the old broken one. Once we removed those we were able to place the new bevel and lid in the correct sport, replace the screws and viola, perfect.
First off, unplug the machine. Next remove the existing screws in the plastic dispenser. Then remove the door, there are two screws holding the door on connecting two brackets which need to be lifted to get them to release. That gives you the access to the remove the front panel, which is done by pulling on the panel itself. Once that is done you need to remove the two screws that are in the corners upper left, and right that are holding the brackets that hold down the top of the machine. Remove the brackets by gently turning them. Once done the lid should easily lift up. The dispenser can then be disconnected by removing the 2 rubber hoses on top and the the larger rubber hose on the bottom along with the electrical connections under the unit. Keep track of which wire goes to which lead. After removing the dispenser just do everything in reverse. The machine is like new, and the repair took about 45min and saved me at least $200 dollars.
Removed old screws and bezel.replaced new bezel and screws.The exoloded views and drawings were a great help.. Thanks for being there with views and the right parts that fit perfectly.. Love the service.. Patty O'
Removed the broken plastic bezel and lid assembly. Removed the lid from the bezel by flexing the lid so the hinge pins would clear the mounting holes. Attached the old lid to the new bezel and reinstalled the assembly with the four existing mounting screws.The repair was easy and for about $15.00 total the soap dispenser is back to new condition.
I removed the dispender assembly from compartment. (Four phillips head screws.) Attached new lid to the dispenser housing. Cleaned the surface where assembly had been sitting on. Reattached the assembly unit to the washer. Looks good!
Unscrewed the 4 screws of the old bezel; lifted the bezel out; moved the lid from the old bezel to the new one; set bezel in place and screwed it in with the old screws. Looks and feels like new.
I visited several web sites looking for repair parts for my Maytag washing machine. Your site was the easiest to navigate and provided great diagrams and pictures to ensure that I purchased the correct part. I liked the ability to track the delivery of my parts via your web site. I received my parts within a couple days.
Removed 2 of 4 the screws that were holding the Dispenser Bezel in place. Removed the broken Dispenser Bezel and the other 2 screws. Cleaned the 4 screws (remove the detergent) cleaned the inside of the Dispenser area. Assembled the Dispenser lid /bezel assy. Secured the lid / bezel assy to washer with the 4 screws. Installed the syphon cup and syphon cap.
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