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PartSelect Number PS11738945
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed two screws from bottom of front cover. Raised front cover to disingage clips and remove. Removed two screws to release top cover. Propped top cover up with mop to allow access to injector site. Removed two clamps to free injector sleeve, nozzle and valve from inlet hose. Installed new clamps, sleeve, nozzle and bracket. Lowered top cover and tested for leaks. None found. Reinstalled top cover. Reinstalled front cover. Washer back in service.
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My washer is very old but in very good condition, it was my mothers when I was a teenager and now I am 50! This is the first repair ever done on it, my son was sure I should just buy a new one but my daughter and I had other ideas. We went on line and looked it up and followed easy directions and found the small part that was leaking right away.It had just worn out. we then ordered the parts for under $20.00 and within a few day's it was here and we were back in the laundry washing. Thank you soooo much, we are not going to let this one down with my son for some time =)
Removed front cover by removal of 2 phillips screws at bottom of front panel. Removed two cap screws from lf and rf corners attaching the top to the side panels. Raised and blocked up with piece of wood the hinged top of machine. Removed hose clamps with nut driver and cotter pin remover to expand the maytag clamps for reuse and to break the stick of the hoses to the old sleeve. Removed the clamp at the water fill valve on the water hose run up to the sleeve. Removed the water injector from the washer fill hose and removed the plastic injector for reuse in the injector hose. Inserted it into the fill hose as the old removed sample revealed. Installed the new improved plastic sleeve with one of two original screws, no longer using two but one screw for mounting. Installed original clamps on new hoses and reinstalled hoses on new sleeve. Pressed run dial center to start fill to ensure water leak was now cured. Reinstalled lf and rf cap screws to side panels. Reinstalled front panel 2 phillips retaining screws. Tested cycles and no leaks, on this 1966 machine bought new in may of 1966, along with its companion maytag dryer. Both remain in good use. A comparable maytag washer is 799. 00 At lowes. . . Thank you, fred maytag, for the best washer with the easiest design to repair, if it ever needs parts. . . And thanks, partselect. Com for having these 44 year old washing machine parts. Interesting to note that this sleeve not only had an added water fence around its open vent slots to prevent water overflow, but that it now tilted rearward on the oem mount to aid in that desire. It is always good to see american companies that are continually upgrading their parts to work better and to fit in older machines, like maytag has always done, in their search for excellence.
This happened once before and had I remembered how to get the front door off and lift the top it would have taken me less time. I actually spent more time assessing prior to ordering parts than in repairing once the parts came.One odd thing - it only leaked when the hot water was entering (if the settings were on cold only no leak - no idea why that should be).Anyway, this injector and the rubber housing it slides into get old and clogged or deteriorate. I ordered all the parts and replace them - but probably only needed to replace the plastic injector nozzel and the rubber sleeve it fits into. All good now - no more leaks (until the next time!)
After removing the front cover and tilting up the top of the washer housing, the area of leakage was obvious. I unscrewed the clear plastic injector housing, loosened the clamp, slid the hose off of the clear plastic injector housing, and removed the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. I then order the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. After the parts arrived, I simply put things back together, and no more leak!Note: When putting the plastic injector nozzle into the rubber injector valve, I used a little liquid detergent as a lube.
Once the front and top of the machine were opened,I loosened the clamps on each end of the injector. I removed the rubber injector valve and the plastic injector nozzle was inside. I placed the new nozzle inside the rubber valve making sure the lip of the nozzle was locked in the rubber valve as on the one I had removed. I used a little detergent to lubricate the wider end of the rubber valve(as suggested by someone else in their description). I placed the valve into the washer in the same way the old one came out. I tightened the clamps and started the machine. No leak. I put the top and front on and have been happily washing since. This machine was given to us used by my mother-in-law. It is at least 25 years old. I assumed we would have to replace the machine, but we repaired it for less than $20., including shipping. Thanks.
The three parts fit together to form one unit. As has been mentioned here already I'm not sure what purpose they serve. I'm also not sure how replacing them stopped the leak but it did. If it had not stopped I think I could have bypassed the valve entirely with a piece of hose or PVC and had it work just fine.
After figuring out how to open the washer I could not find where the leaking water had come from. I ran the washer without the front cover (cold water) and it didn't leak. When I finally accidentally blocked the intake on the tub did it squirt out inside the washer. It turned out that it would only leak with both hot and cold water combined was the pressure big enough to leak. The place it leaked was about halfway between the intake valve and where it entered the tub in what looked like a small plastic housing with slots. The functionality of this thing is still in question. I call it the Kazoo because it makes noise so you can tell the water is going in. I can see that it also holds back pressure so the washer does not fill too fast if the incoming pressure is too high, but I have my doubts about this. It turns out the intake hose is interrupted with by a jet inside a 3 inch black rubber tube (valve) that extends into the second hose. The water pressure expands the rubber (valve)and makes noise. The way I see it old rubber had maybe shrunk and lost its ability to resist pressure so it overflowed because too much water was coming through. The new piece I ordered was 3/8 inch longer then the one that came out. Maybe a planned obsolence part. (My wife wanted to buy a new washer and dryer at the first sign of trouble.) Anyway the repair was pretty simple. No clamps needed the old one is easy to undo and you just replace the kazoo. By the way while I was waiting on the parts to get here I just throttled the water pressure on the wall so it wouldn't leak. On this maytag washer you take off the screws on the front towards the bottom to start. I did not notice them untill I had damn destroyed the lid. After you remove the front cover there are 2 screws in the top front corners to remove and the the top pops off. They repair is easy understanding it took some thinking. Good luck.
PartsSelect had diagram of repair area (Maytag website did not because it is looking for a 6 digit model number). Ordered parts needed, only used valve and nozzle kept old sleeve too much hastle to replace, hardest part was to get to area because need to remove front panel then prop top.
I removed the front of the washer and lifted the top. I could see the water was leaking from injector nozzle. I looked online at PartSelect.com, found my model and make. Looked up the defective parts and ordered them. They came in three days. I installed the parts in about 20 minutes and it worked fine.
Unplugged the washer. Then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel that hold the front panel on. Then I removed two screws that hold top down, under front corners. Lifted top holding lid so as not to flop backwards. Then loosened front hose clamp on injector body. Replaced valve and nozzle. Replaced hose clamp, top and front panel. Bam ---did not leak anymore.
unplug machine ,shut off water supply,Removed 2 lower front panel screws ,raise panel upward "hinge type motion"and removed , Remove 2 self tapping screws from under front corners, removed liquid bleach tube from upper connector ,raise top toward back of machine , place prop "piece of wood" to hold top up,removed 1 screw attaching injector ,now replaced injector assy and install with new hoses and clamps. then assemble in reverse order
remove the front and opened the top, removed the old parts and added the new plus a new clamp that I purchased from the local store. I'm a single mom, one income so doing repairs myself is very important. The parts came when promised and it cost me about $23.00 where a repair man could have charged me well over $100.00 just for the parts.First time I used this website or ordered parts, I will definitely do it in the future.
Took the front off the washer. Removed the two screws that hold the top down, this allows the top of the washer to hinge back. The two hose clamps are removed, the hoses slide off the sleeve giving access to the injector and the valve.The new injector has to be placed in the rubber valve and then slid into the plastic sleeve. Tighten up hose clamps and replace top and front of washer. Sleeve had a little different design than orinigal so I figure Maytag had seen this problem before. Almost so easy a caveman could fix it.
Disconnected the the power and inline water hoses. Slid machine from wall about two feet.Removed the two phillips screws in front panel. Removed the two 7/16 hex head self tapping screws one in each side panel to the top. Raise the top section.The parts I replaced were on the top left side of the drum. Loosen the claims and remove the old parts. Really easy!
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