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PartSelect Number PS11738945
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle. It is black in color and measures approximately 2 inches in length. To access this part, you will need to remove the front panel of your washer. There will be 2 screws holding it in place. Once these have been removed, the top will pivot to open, which will give you access to the injector assembly. This is an OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I opened up the washer on the front side and then the top side. I pulled out the old rubber injector valve on the left hand side and replaced it with a new one. Simple.
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My cousin scavaged the same part from his old Maytag. It is like a rubber sleeve going over the plastic injector nozzle.The new part is to replace the one my cousin gave me. Note:the new one has a thicker and stiffer rubber wall. Until he repairs his Maytag, I won't know if the new rubber valve model (that is thicker) will let water through it into the washing machine. To repair, used screwdriver to remove screws at bottom front panel. Then used socket wrench to remove the bolts (on front left and right side) of the washer top. This allow the top to be lifted and tilted back towards the control panel; and then get easy access to the rubber injector valve. Screwdriver to remove clamp and install easily. (I found out it was the valve broken by turning on the machine and watching the water squirt into the air). No leak now (using my cousin's old Maytag rubber valve). The value bought was thicker rubber, probably to prevent the same "blowout" that my old Maytag valve had.
The hardest part and most time consuming was opening the machine the first time due to rusty bolts. After using WD-40 to loosen the bolts it was very easy to find the leak. I ordered the parts on Sat. received them on Tues A.M. Including opening the machine again replacing the parts with the new ones and putting it back together, it took less than 30 mins. Please Note: I am a woman and except for the orginal opening when my son helped with the rusty bolts I did this myself. EASY EASY EASY!
Unscrewed 2 screws at bottom front of washer. Took front panel off of washer. Undid 2 bolts from the underside of top of washer. Lifted washer top back and started a cycle. Saw the water spraying out of part of a hose assembly. Seemed like it was some assembly to mix the soap into the water if you had a slot to pour soap into, this washer didn't have that on the external parts but it had the internal parts for it. Loosened a metal strap from one end o fthe assembly that leaked, removed it, the leaking piece of rubber came out with it. Looked up parts on this site and found a picture which made me realize the leaking part could be pulled out of the tube it was in, confirmed it looked identical so i ordered it. Once it arrived I was able to place a plastic piece inside the new one, re-insert it in the end of the house i had removed, insert that all back into the assembly and re-tighten the hose clamp. Briefly turned it on to confirm it was not leaking anywhere else, then closed it all back up. I've done several loads since with no issues.
I removed the front panel 2 screws. Then two screws holding the top deck. Two clamps removed on both ends of rubber injector. Replaced the nozzle and rubber valve, which was leaking. Buttoned the screws and washer works fine.
Removed the front cover with two screws at the bottom face. Two steel bolts and the top raises up. Removed the old rubber part and put the new one in. NO LEAK!I had read where several people had to do the same thing. I will always have a washer basin under it from now on though.
First I removed the front cover by removing screwstowards the bottom of the front. Then I removed thebolt in each of the front top corners. Now you can lift the top all the way up. Next I located the filler hose that has the injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. Next I loosened the clamps that hold these parts in place. Next I replaced the worn parts with the new parts and reassembled everything in reverse order.
I removed front panel and top hold down screws. Then removed the clamp, replaced the rubber injector valve and the plastic injector nozzle. re-assembled the unit and tested - everything worked fine - no leaks.
Assembled the parts, put them into the machine, moved it back into place, started it up and it is running fine. Thanks for the good service, good parts and they arrived on time.
removed the front and top of machine. access to the rubber hoses. removed hose, replaced the rubber injector valve. reversed process, no leaks.
My grandson did the repair. Just pulled out the old valve, and I looked on the computer, did a search, found the diagram, ordered the part, a few days it arrived, he installed and tested in about 15 min. Totally happy and will order again when parts are needed. Many Thanks!!!!!
open washer as direct from your repair page. Saw where water was coming from . replace parts , ran washer , job done. thank you for your help.
Once I got the washer top off, if was easy to see the water leak and with the parts, very to fix. The parts I ordered where received very quickly. Good service.
Remove two screws to take off the front. Remove two bolts to loosen the top, slide it aside. Remove one hose clamp and take out injector valve and nozzle. Lube the new nozzle with soapy water, slide the valve in and re-insert into hose. I replaced the hose clamp, but it wasn't really necessary.Bolt down the top and replace the front and screws.I did move the machine and clean the inlet screens, just to make sure. It did improve the hot water flow.
Very helpful to have the parts diagram to see how to access the fill tube here on PartsSelect. Removed the two screws holding the front panel on and then undid the two hex head bolts so the lid could be tilted back. The previous repair stories posted here really helped in analyzing what to purchase. Only bought the rubber tube and injector nozzle. The plastic housing looked OK. Undid the hose clamp and out came the rubber tube. A little liquid soap on the outside and slid the tube into the housing, and hooked back the feed line. Ran the fill for a little bit to ensure the leak was gone. Re-installed the screws to attach the top and the front panel. For $20 in parts and shipping, solved the leak and machine is back in business. Thanks really helpful web site.
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