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PartSelect Number PS11738882
This V-style drive belt is about 51" long and 3/8" wide. This part is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required and this makes the belt get wear and tear.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
diagnosed a loose belt-- ordered and received same -- installed and set to proper tension that was simple.
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The pump was easy enough to replace. Access panel in the back and 3 screws and it was off and back on in less than 20 minutes. It was putting the belt on that gave me the most trouble even though one of the pulleys moved to allow for easy replacement it did not move enough. It took me another 30 minutes just to get the belt on. I finally decided to place the belt on the two smaller pulleys and save the larger one for last and it went on with no trouble at all. Learn from my error =]
Removed old belt and pump,installed new one.
Just tipped it back pulled the pulley off (the little plastic tits on the shaft just break off) the belt comes off easy. Carefully tap the new pulley on using a little grease or petroleum jelly on the splines before hand. The belt goes on easily when you slide the motor over. Just force the belt onto the big pulley just as you would on your car.Problem was... the new belt and pulley burnt right up again when it tried to agitate after filling. So the motor was turning fine, and the pump shaft was turning fine, but the agitator (tranny) must have been locked up. Its pulley (the big one) would spin in one direction but was locked in the other when I checked it. Not knowing any better, I assumed that was normal. I still don't know if it is or not. That's the problem with these chat sessions...One guy says it should spin freely both ways another says it should be somewhat difficult to spin, you don't know if the control has to be set in a certain spot before checking. I gave up just going to buy another. This time a direct drive, although it doesn't make any difference there all junk.
Removed back plate, tilted up washer removed pump removed belt. Then replace pump and then replaced belt
Laid washer on its side, released five of the six tub springs, then removed the dive belt and the main pulley. With some effort removing the old snubber ring, placed the new snubber in place. After fighting with the large spring under the pulley I was able to replaced the six screws with the help of an assistant. Replaced the pulley, belt and the five springs. Closed the unit up and placed all the hoses back in place. I was amazed at how smooth the washer functioned with no vibration at all! Thank You.
Did watch the belt video and that was real easy but removing the springs and snubber ring was pretty difficult until i finally had someone help me by holding the tub. was hard to figure out how to how to get at the various parts. Howeve the washing machine is running real well now and I should be able to get several more years out of it. Better instructions or a video would have helped. I had a terrible sewer odor when the washing machine was running. i thought it was a problem with my sewer lines or traps until I took off the drain hose, almost lost it. terrible odor. when I replaced the drain hose and cleaned up the machine, the odor was gone. Saved a lot of money in needless plumbing costs. Good luck.
Took off belt and ran motor. No noise. Then took off drain pump and spun it by hand and felt rubbing on one spot. I figured the bearings were going bad, so I ordered the parts and replaced them.
I pulled the washer away from the wall so that I could lean it back at an angle. I removed the old belt and put the new one on. I started with the smaller pulley first and put the belt into the groove. Next I went to the next larger pulley and did the same thing. Then I went to the largest pulley and started to put the belt into the groove and started turning the pulley by hand. The belt went right on.
Leaned the washer back and propped it up and changed the belt. This is the first time ever repairing an appliance. I feel very good about myself as I am 49 yrs old and did not have to call a repairman for this.
Turned it over to my 35-year old son who removed pump and pulley assembly and the old drive belt, then simply replaced with new assembly and belt from PartSelect! Could not have been easier - from my viewpoint.
All i had to do was pull the washer machine from the wall and lean it back as far as i could and get under it and place the (DRIVE BELT) on the two smallest pulley then put the belt on the large pulley and my work was done it was very simple and easy.......
Spoke with a trusted repair man, described the problem best as I could. I smelled a burning rubber smell. Got on Internet for troubleshooting problems, 77% likely a drive belt. BINGO! Ordered a new belt, took old one off, cleaned the pulley ( it had burnt rubber stuck on it, difficult to remove) lightly sanded pulley just so it would be really smooth. replaced belt. Magic, it worked. I am no repair woman, but carefully listening and explaining helped. Oh, belt is under the very bottom of machine. Very easy to get to, just tilt back and lodge at an angle and make sure it doesn't move.
tilted the machine forward, worked off the old belt and put the new belt back on. no tools required, done in less than 5 minutes.
Unplugged electrical plug. Disconnected water and drain hoses. Turned washer on front side. Removed old belt from bottom of washer. Removed pump access panel. Removed old pump. Installed new pump. Torqued pump mounting screws 1/4 turn with socket wrench. Installed new belt. Put on pump access panel. Hand tested motion of belt and pulleys for smooth travel. Put drain hose on. Turned washer in the upright position. Reconnected water hoses. Washer works like new.
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