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PartSelect Number PS11738882
This V-style drive belt is about 51" long and 3/8" wide. This part is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required and this makes the belt get wear and tear.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The pump is located behind a small panel on the back, lower left side of my washer. It's attached to the bottom frame with 3 screws. It has two hoses attached, each with one spring clamp. Lift one side of the washer and slip the drive belt off the pully. Release the spring clamps on the hoses with a pair of pliers and remove the hoses. A small amount of water will drain from the hoses and pump when removed. Remove the three screws holding the pump to the frame and remove the pump. Install the new pump in the same position. Reattach the hoses, replace the belt, and reinstall the cover panel. That's all there is to it.
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watched online video help. removed washer panels. removed washer springs. disconnected hoses. pulled tub out and placed on top to expose. snubber ring. replaced snubber ring, placed tub back into proper space. replaced old springs with new set. reconnect hoses. Washer ran perfect. Was about to spend $800.00 on new washer but only spent $43.00 in parts and a few hours labor and good as new
I pull out the motor pulley and put the new one then put belt on. but looks like the water pump its bad and I will have to order from you. Your service its the best I ever had ordering and deliver A+++++
Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!
I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.
I could not tell where the leak was coming from. It was intermittent. Also the clothes were not getting totally dry in the spin cycle. Finally the drum stopped turning. The bearing in the waterpump was shot and the water was leaking from the waterpump. Luckily or unluckily, the bearing completely went and I then found out that the intermittent leaking was coming from the pump. I replaced the pump and the belt that was damaged when the pump bearing locked up. This has resolved the leaking issue.
I simply emptied the machine of all the water, tilted the washer on its side,removed the small gray access panel located on the back of the washer, removed both hoses and the drive belt. Then I removed the three screw bolts that hold the water pump in place. Then I replaced the old pump with the new on by just following the process in reverse. I did notice that the new pump did not come with a metal support plate(at least thats what I called it. No problem though when I found out from a local repairman that its a newer design. Total time less than 15 minutes.
The drain pump assembly was going bad. It eventually froze and burned the drive belt and motor pulley up. I replaced the drain pump by removing 3 screws. I replace the motor pulley and belt in about 5 minutes without removing any parts. Simple fix. Ran through 3 cycles and works perfectly. Thanks!
I took the bad water pump off installed the new one and hooked up the new drive belt. Overall it took me twenty minutes, not all that hard to do.
Obvious problem: belt destroyed. The plastic pulley on the motor was damaged beyond repair. Since you can't replace just the plastic pulley, you have to purchase another motor. The machine still would not spin. Checked the pump again. The bearings might be bad. Replaced pump; Success! washer works again. Total repair: belt $15.68, new pulley with motor $132.00, and new pump $80.00. Estimated cost to repair about $228.00. Time to troubleshoot. 1 hour, time to fix 1 hour; Total time in labor about 2 hours.
No need to buy a brake wrench nor the expensive spring remover. Once the drum is out the washer turn it upside down and loose the screws holding the transmission about a little more than half way, to give the new snubber enough room to fit in, them tigh and assamble everything back together
Disassembly- Took the back bottom plate off.- Removed hoses.- Removed pump with pulley (3 nut screws)- Removed beltInstalled new parts- Installed pump with pulley (3 screws)- Installed belt by placing on 2 small pulleys, then turning onto the large pulley (used a screwdriver to help align over pulley for leverage).- Replaced hoses- Replaced back plate.
I was able to get the belt off easily but the belt was fine. I changed the snubber easily also. But that wasn't the problem. I went through all the parts that are easy enough to change without a mechanic but turned out it was something inside the innerbasket and we had to junk the washer and it was only 4 yrs old.
The reason for the belt not turning was because of a cover in the water pump pulley which did not allow the water pump to rotate and that's why the belt and the plastic motor pulley burn out. First I removed that cover and then removed the belt, the pulley was easy simply by breaking all the little teeth with a screwdriver then the pulley can be remove by using a screwdriver as a lever. putting the pulley, simply use a plastic hammer so it does not get damage be patient. finally the belt and you are done, hopefully this will help someone.
I used a small screw driver to remove the teeth from the motor pully and fit the puller on the pulley with a small socket protecting the end of the shaft. it came off easily with a few turns on the puller. I placed the new motor pulley on the shaft and tapped it into place with a small dead-blow mallet (a hammer with a hollow, heavy, plastic head filled with sand). Unfortunately, the spin /transmission shaft pulley was an incorrect part for the application and the motor turned out to have some internal heat damage. I was not able to apply this part because it was the wrong application but if it is you are in luck. The clip removal is the same and install this pulley flat side down and reassemble. If not, read on. I removed the motor by removing the front panel, removing the three bolts securing the motor to the plate, and disconnecting the wiring plugs and ground wire. I lucked out finding a spin pulley and motor rebuild kit locally. After rebuilding the motor with the new bushings, brushes, etc. from the kit, I reinstalled it by reversing the removal steps. I then removed the spin/trans pulley by removing a plastic grease cup/cover from the end shaft and removed the C-clip and washer holding the pulley in place with a small screw driver. I was careful not to let the pulley and washer/thrust washer stack on top of it fall off so I could be sure of the order in which they should be reinstalled. I applied fresh grease and reversed the disassembly proceedure making sure to drive the C-clip fully into the slot on the shaft with a large flat-tip screwdriver and the mallet. I cleaned, regreased, and reinstalled the grease cup/cover back into place firmly making sure it snapped into place. I slipped the belt back on the pulleys and reinstalled the front panel with the two screws at the top inside corners. The job was done.
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