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PartSelect Number PS11738880
This hose connects the outer tub to the pump of your washing machine. It is twelve inches long and all black in color. This hose is made entirely of rubber.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Well, I found the washer leaking water from the bottom a couple weeks ago. I finally got around to pulling off the front panel and ran a couple cycles to see where the water was coming from. Turns out the leak was at the plastic pump that does the draining after wash and rinse.So I got the model number and googled online. I found Partselect and they had every part I needed. Took me 10 minutes online to find the parts for my specific washer. I couldn't believe how easy it was. Parts came in two days...and this was right before Xmas.Anyways, changing out the pump was simple. Took 5 minutes to get it off and put the new one in. I decided to change the hoses and elbow siphon break as well while I had the thing apart as those parts were old...but still working well. Got the washer back together and the floor is dry as a bone. Perfect repair, really easy to do. Hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off.
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I opened the front of the washer by removing the 2 screws on the bottom front of the washer, then swinging the front upward until it was clear of the hangers at the top. The hose sits right in front. It was cracked where it attaches to the tub. I loosened the hose clamps at the tub & the pump with a nutwrench & removed the old hose. I slid the clamps onto the new hose & put the hose on to the tub & pump. I tightened the clamps, reinstalled the front & was finished.
Hardest part was figuring out how to access the internals (not through the back or the top) It turns out there are two screws on the lower front of the machine, not easily found, which when removed allow the front panel of the machine to swing to front and out of the way allowing full access to the internals from the front. The water was comming from one of two water pump hoses. The hose was held in place with 1" hose clamps and was easily changed out.
Water Inlet Valve: Unplugged machine from the AC receptacle!! Disconnected inlet hoses from valve, removed 5/16" screws securing valve to machine rear cover, removed wires from valve, disconnected the fill hose at the valve being careful not to let it fall into the machine, attached the same hose to the new valve along with the wires being careful to make sure they were attached to the right connectors and attached securely, placed the valve into the place where the old one had been and secured it with the aforementioned 5/16" screws, Done!! Hose: Removed front machine cover by removing two screws at the bottom of the machine, removed to clamps, pulled hose from connections, replaced hose with NEW clamps!! Done!
Frist remover the two screws from washer front. The ones that are about 5 inches from the floor. Pulled front cover toward me and removed. The hose was right in the front that was cracked. It was held on by two hose clamps. I just removed the old and put in the new. No more water on the floor. Shipping was fast for the hose too. They said that if they recieved the order by 3pm it would be shipped the same day. I order at 3:01pm Sat. recieved Tuesday.
Since the washer is 28 years old, my first impulse was to rush out and buy a new one. However, I'm a DYI'er and I figured what do I have to loose by taking the front panel off (I had seen this done by the Maytag Repairman) and checking things out. After removing the two screws located near the bottom front of the panel, I pulled out on the bottom and the panel easily came off. I couldn't see any evidence of leaking water so I thought, "what would the Maytag Man do next". I figured "he'd run through a cycle to see if he could find the leak" so that's what I did. Sure enough, as soon as the spin and drain cycle came on, the source of the leak became apparent. There is a slight vibration during the spin which caused the hose to fail.I then got on my computer, Googles "repair parts for Maytag Washer" and found Parts Select.Com. I was surprised (to say the least) to find the part I needed in stock. I place my order on Sunday morning and the part was delivered the following Wednesday afternoon. I installed the hose and replaced the front panel and was washing a load of jeans within 20 minutes.I appreciate the service provided by Parts Select and will be ordering again when the need arises.Tom NelsonFort Worth, TX
I removed the front of the washer (two screws) and found the drain hose to be cracked near the top where it attached to the drum. A hardware store hose was inadequate because it crimped when bent in an S shape as required, so I ordered the proper part amd installed with two new clamps.I bought a 5/15 socket driver to do up the clamps, and all is fine.
Washer originally purchased from Sears. Called Sears for repair. $65.00 to show up. Diagnosed the problem as a Bad belt and pump. Asked for approx. $250 to repair. I declined and ordered a belt and pump from PartSelect.com for half the cost. Took 10-15 minutes to install. Turned the washer on and put it through a drain cycle, it leaked all over the floor. Turns out the only problem was a cracked Outer Tub to Pump Hose. It took about 10 minutes to install. Whala, no leak. Now while I purchased an un-needed pump and belt from PartSelect.com, not their problem. Even though I purchased two items that were not required, the cost was still half of what Sears wanted to charge me for a repair that would not have fixed the problem. I will certainly continue to use and recommend PartSelect.com.
Our Maytag (A308) washer is now about 29 yrs old. I put in a PartSelect water valve 3 yrs ago. When it started leaking recently I found the cuplrit to be a flexible hose to the outer basis. The front came off easily (two screws at the bottom) and the hose clamps required some cleaning. I recommend purchasing new clamps. Under 30 minutes to get it running again.
Removed two screws that hold front of machine, then removed front.Removed old hose clamps and hose. Installed new hose with NEW hose clamps.Ordered part on line on a Thursday, it arrived the next afternoon via FedX. Very quick service.
Compared part to be sure they were the same. Put ne part in place of old one, screwed back in, tightened hose, DONE. Easy and have my old reliable washer back to new.
Drain tub of all water. Unplug washer power cord from outlet. Remove the rear compartment cover at base of washer then using pliers(channel locks) slide the compression retaining rings off the top and bottom of hose. Replace with new hose and hose clamps, Tighten hose clamps in place until snug, being careful not to overtighten because the tub outlet and pump inlet are plastic!Pour water into tub to check for leaks. Install rear cover and drain hose.
Replaced the hose and new clamps. Rans washer through complete cycle. Found that during the spin cycle the tub seemed un-balanced and was making a metallic ticking sound.Found that the thre struts which attach to the tub were loose-- especially the front nut. Found two halves of lead washer laying on bottom of washer cabinet. The washer had fallen out from behind the front strut and nut. Placed the washer back between the strut and tub and tightened the nut and the metallic sound was gone as well as most of the tub swaying during the spin cycle. Tightened all three strut's nuts. Ran washer through and additional cycle and washer was back to normal. The loose nuts seem to have caused excessive tub sway which in turn put extra stress on the tub hose connection to cause the original leak. Machine is 25 years old and still washing well!
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