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PartSelect Number PS11738878
This injector nozzle is just under three inches long. It is white in color and made entirely of plastic.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Disconnected the the power and inline water hoses. Slid machine from wall about two feet.Removed the two phillips screws in front panel. Removed the two 7/16 hex head self tapping screws one in each side panel to the top. Raise the top section.The parts I replaced were on the top left side of the drum. Loosen the claims and remove the old parts. Really easy!
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First I removed the front panel. I then lifted off the top of the washer to gain access to the injector valve and nozzle. Then I unscrewed the retaining clips on the hoses joining the injector valve and nozzle. I separated the hoses from the injector valve/nozzle assembly. I then replaced the injector valve/nozzle assembly with replacement parts and reassenbled.
watched the video on the site and went at it. lol Repair was fast and easy , almost 30 yrs old and still washing like a charm! Mite be the last one made in America !!!!! Too bad!Thanks for the help and will def recommend the site to friends. I actually got it from a friend
Noticed small pool of water on left side. Diagnosed it was injector tube. Ordered parts. Removed front panel by removing two phillips screws and then pushed down to disengage spring clips. Used nutdriver to remover two bolts holding top cover and then undid bleach dispenser hose.Lifted top cover and removed clamps holding injector and fill. Replaced using 1 1/16" Stainless steel screw clamps.THIS WAS THE FIRST REPAIR EVER ON THIS WASHER!! SIMPLY AMAZING PERFORMANCE. STILL SPINS AT HIGH RPM AND IS QUIET. Bought for my folks as a gift in 1979.This is the reason I bought the last Maytag top loaders made in '05. Also had another one 24 years with only one repair.Parts Select, thank you! Parts arrived in three days.
By removing the front panel and raising the top panel, I was able to observe that water was overflowing from a small plastic "cup" that was positioned midway along the inlet lines for water entering the washer tub. None of the adjacent parts were visibly damaged or broken, but the rubber ones were soft and "gummy" to some degree. I ordered the three parts that I was able to identify, based on the photos at PartSelect.com. They arrived ahead of schedule and I was able to install them the same day. The only additional disassembly involved disconnecting the hot and cold water lines, removing the water inlet shield and gaining access to the upstream end of the old rubber hose in order to replace it with the new one.
removed front panel, lifted top of washer and tilted back,pulled black fill hose off clear plastic vent,pulled worn retainer out and put new one in.
Removed front panel ( 2 swrews). Turned off water to washer. Unplugged power cord. Removed two screws holding down top of washer. Located source of leak. It was the injector valve. Removed hose clamps. Removed defective injector valve (2 parts). Installed now injector valve (2 parts) as shown in video. Tightened hose clamps. Replaced top cover and front panel. Done
I opened up the front panel of the washing machine and noticed that water was leaking from a hose along the top left of the machine. I ordered a new plastic injector nozzle and rubber injector valve. The parts arrived in 2 days. Switchout of the parts took less than 5 minutes. Tested it out; the leak was gone. Total cost $22.62. Money well spent!
Followed repair guidance provided on website: 1) Removed front panel of washing machine by removing two phillips-head screws (bottom front of machine) and lifting front panel from bottom. 2)Removed two hex-head from front corners of top panel. 3) lift front panel to gain access to Injector Valve and Nozzle. 4) Removed hose clamp, removed hose, removed old valve and nozzle. 5) Replaced components in reverse order.
First removed front to see approximately where the leak was - left side from the front. Parts arrived quickly. Removed top and swung up to the left side (not the back). Video was very helpful at showing how to replace valve and nozzle. The old valve did indeed have a hole in it and the injection had some perished rubber slime. Closed back up. Hit snag - the top loader door latch was not engaging preventing the machine operating. Hmm. Opened up again and with flashlight located sound of buzzing relay (being careful since the machine was powered) Noticed a wire was caught up in the relay. Disconected power. Re-sited wire and used a twist to hold to other wires to keep it out of the way of the relay. Closed back up. Everything fine. So glad to keep my 24 yr old machine going! Amazing that this was the first time it had ever been moved and opened up. Moving and cleaning was be far the longest part of the whole operation. Great site.
The hardest part and most time consuming was opening the machine the first time due to rusty bolts. After using WD-40 to loosen the bolts it was very easy to find the leak. I ordered the parts on Sat. received them on Tues A.M. Including opening the machine again replacing the parts with the new ones and putting it back together, it took less than 30 mins. Please Note: I am a woman and except for the orginal opening when my son helped with the rusty bolts I did this myself. EASY EASY EASY!
I removed the front panel 2 screws. Then two screws holding the top deck. Two clamps removed on both ends of rubber injector. Replaced the nozzle and rubber valve, which was leaking. Buttoned the screws and washer works fine.
Removed the front cover with two screws at the bottom face. Two steel bolts and the top raises up. Removed the old rubber part and put the new one in. NO LEAK!I had read where several people had to do the same thing. I will always have a washer basin under it from now on though.
First I removed the front cover by removing screwstowards the bottom of the front. Then I removed thebolt in each of the front top corners. Now you can lift the top all the way up. Next I located the filler hose that has the injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. Next I loosened the clamps that hold these parts in place. Next I replaced the worn parts with the new parts and reassembled everything in reverse order.
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