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PartSelect Number PS11738845
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
My washing machine was severely off balance during the spin cycle. It would bang violently against the side and “walk” across the laundry room. I was able to fix this for under $25 dollars of parts from partselect.com and a few hours. I rated the task as easy, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. Others may find it a bit difficult but I believe anyone except an absolute beginner can do this job.Fix this problem before significant damage is done to your base! Otherwise the job will take more time and be a LOT more expensive. My base had experienced a little damage but thankfully it did not require replacement. When the snubber wears out, it allows the tub to rub against the base. Metal on metal is never a good thing.Also I chose to replace the springs, even though it may not have been 100% necessary. You have to take them off anyway and they are inexpensive. It is easy to know when a spring is broken, but not as easy to know when it has lost some of its spring. Just makes sense to me to replace them.I used the directions below which I found on the internet. They are listed below unedited by me. I have added a few of my own comments below that.• Remove power and all hoses • Lift top by inserting putty knife just inside front clips to release • Remove front and rear panels, 10mm • Disconnect drain hose from bottom of drum, pliers - spring clip • Remove 6 springs from bottom of drum using channel lock or spring tool • Lay on side, remove drive belt by turning large drive pulley and side tension to belt • Remove water level hose on side of drum, pliers - spring clip • Remove drum from cabinet by sliding out top. It is not necessary to remove drum from transmission. • Inspect base plate for damage • Lay drum on padded surface, upside down • Remove C clip, drive pulley, being careful to observe order of parts and washers • Loosen 6 screws holding down old snubber. DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS, THERE IS A VERY STRONG SPRING UNDER THIS PLATE. Loosen screws only enough to get old snubber out. • Clean dust from area. • Insert new snubber, keeping it even while tightening screws. • Reverse other processes above to assemble washer. Replace any broken drum springs. Replace belt if worn.My tips:• After you remove the tub you will see a lot of fine white dust in the bottom of the washer. That is from your old worn out snubber. Vaccum it out.• I didn’t have a spring tool but I found that using a pair of vice grips to remove and replace the springs was easier than using channel locks.• Technically, I believe the clip is actually called an e-clip. If you have the correct tool for this removing and replacing it will be a lot easier. I did not have the tool. I used an open end wrench that was just the right size to butt up against the two ends of the clip. A light tap with a hammer against the other end of the wrench and it popped right off. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to put it back on.• Also regarding putting the e-clip back on, at first I could not see the groove that the clip was supposed to slid into. It was below the little plastic piece with the teeth. I used a small flat screw driver inserted into the groove to gently pry it up and had someone gently tap on the plastic piece which pushed it down enough to expose the grove.• I highly recommend heeding the warning regarding the loosening of the 6 screws holding the snubber. I did not have any trouble with this but there is a 200 lbs spring underneath that you do not want to release. It could injure you and might be hard to put back. Just loosen each screw 1/4 turn at a time until the snubber can be removed.That's about it. I took me about 4 hours
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The noise problem was a combination of the belt and the snubber Ring. The snubber ring was worn out and causing most of the noise. The belt was easy to put on...the snubber ring - not so much. Plan a couple of hours to disassemble the lower portion of the washer as the snubber ring lies at the bottom of the washer tub assembly but above all the pulleys, gears and the bottom/base plate of the wash machine. A nice surprise is the large spring that pops out when you open up the bottom plate. Re-compressing that spring takes a special tool or a creative way to get it all back together after the new snubber ring is installed. I used some temporary bolts and nuts in luau of the short 1/2" sheet metal screws to compress the spring and than replaced the bolts with the original sheet metal screws once the plate was close enough to use them. It was a major pain. No doubt the pros have a special tool that takes care of this problem. Good luck!
Looked up probable causes on PartSelect website. Determined that worn snubber ring and and weak springs were probable cause. Ordered parts on a Thursday. Parts arrived on following Monday. Read several repair stories on the website. One story gave step-by-step instructions for disassembly. Very helpful since I followed this prescription. While waiting for delivery of the parts, I removed the tub and inverted it.Removing springs was relatively easy. Did not remove snubber ring until new parts arrived, but replacing it was easy. I was very cautious about loosening the 6 screws and heeded the warning about the 200 pound spring under the cover.Diagrams on website showing expanded mechanism of washing machine parts were very helpful for reassembly. The most difficult part was installing the new springs, since they were quite strong. One repair story on the website suggested using coins to expand the new springs enough to be able to hook the springs into the upper slots and hangers. I USED ONE OF THE MORE ACCESSIBLE LOCATIONS (AT THE REAR OF THE MACHINE) TO PREPARE EACH SPRING FOR INSTALLATION). I hooked a spring in the bottom slot. I pushed a long heavy screwdriver through the spring's upper hook and the hole in the metal support and expanded the spring until I could insert 1/2-inch washers (about 8) between the rings. I prepared each spring this way for installation around the tub. With the washers in the expanded spring, it was relatively easy to use a pliers to lift the upper hook into the hole or hanger.I decided to insert the spring next to the motor first since it was the more inaccessible. The remaining springs were installed relatively easily. Reassembly was easy by following the reverse order of the disassembly instructions. I found the tub to be pretty heavy to lift, so when it came time to put it back into the frame, I turned the frame on it's side and inserted the tub from floor level. I am very proficient mechanically but I believed I could make this repair without difficulty. I think that without the repair stories I had viewed on the website, it would have been more difficult. A spring tool would have been immeasurebly more helpful.
Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.
I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare
Studing the numerous notes under the parts listing, help me determine which parts to purchase and replace. These listings also helped me to do the repair with much ease. Once the front and rear panels were removed, I detached the springs which came out very easily. I then pulled out the tub and removed the pulley and loosened the screws holding the snubber which then came out. Put in new snubber tightened screws, replaced pulley & put tub back in place. The springs were a little tougher which led me to believe the old ones were streched. I used a towel to brace tub to one side so as to attach spring on the low side. Used Vice Grip pliers and could not phathom using anything but. Put everything back together and washed a load of towels. The tub was way more stable, but still, towels were little damp. Respun and they dried. Determined that the repairs was all good but told wife not to put so many towels in at once which is probably why the snubber & springs wore out.
remove top and front panel to access wash drum. unhooked suspension/balance springs(6).also removed drive belt. removed half of brake bolts installed 3 1-inch bolts removed 3 remaining short bolts,then 3longer bolts to remove tension of brake spring. removed/dissassembled brake and snubber ring,then reassembled in reverse order. wish i would have replaced suspension springs at same time! ordered new springs today
disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather
Removed front and rear panels, removed belt, removed old springs, disconnected bleach and pump lines from tub and lifted entire tub/transmission assmebly from washer. Replaced snubber ring at bottom of transmission assembly by backing off screws just enough to allow old ring to be removed and new one to be installed. Replaced pump assembly by removing drain hose and three bolts. Installed in reverse order. Placed tub/trans assembly back into washer and installed new springs using vise grip pliers. Reconnected bleach line and pump lines to tub. Reinstalled fron and rear panels. Installed new belt on bottom side of washer. Piece of cake.
First I pulled the washer to an open area.Then removed fluid line going to tub.Removed tub by removing springs.Turned tub upside down, removed the belt pulley, and held the ring under the snubber ring with C clamps while removing 6 screws holding assembly together. Released the pressure on the C clamps slowly until spring pressure was gone.Replaced snubber, and installed ring holding assembly. Replaced ring plate, and C clamps going back in place with equal pressure until seated. Replaced 6 screws, and pulley assembly, and all fluid lines and new spring kit.WALA..... WORKS GREAT for less than $25.Thanks
I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.
Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together. Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinstalled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.
Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.
Problem fix after replace Snubber ring, I also replace suspension spring and driver belt due to the fact I'm already taking it a part
After new belt, load dry bearing sound in spin cycle and brake squeal. Videos were very helpful, but limited. Thinking with new belt pulling pressure, it had to be bearings. Top bearing I was worried of possible water seal being disturbed ? 1 * Not so, the big top bearing sits alone under brake housing, but spent most time prying off with a wheel puller. Need like 10inch reach for puller. Has a plastic housing around it, that you have to pry on, but no damage seemed evident when done. This was the worse part ! 2 * Pulled springs, (with vise grips) water level hose,(fingers) and pump hose,(pliers and twist to free) removed motor (two 1/2 inch bolts and wires), then v belt. Tub/transmission all pulled out easy with front cover removed already. 3* Inverted, pop plastic cover, pry spring clip with screwdriver,(a little stubborn) and pulley pulls out easy. Now look good at the pulley inner part, it has to be adjusted when done, and instructions are not that clear. So here I will try to give a better clue. The instruction sheet shows the outer ring part with small inner space to tabs, and a bigger space to tabs. The larger 2/3 tab swing space is the control setting area.. Inner part swings left and right around to the tabs, A small 1/3 area, and bigger 2/3 area. Looking at the large side, the outer ring has two exterior raised notch of plastic. If you twist the pulley CW looking down, until it hits the first left tab, this would be the start point for adjusting. Instructions state, the first outer notch is the "MIN" point, and the next notch (about an inch away) is the "MAX" point. When reassembling and WITH the washer &clip in the groove (use the old one and just push one side into the goove to temporary hold center shaft in place) Key is the pulley has to be turned CW, and needs the clip to hold shaft, as pressure is put on the lower brake spring. OK, clip holding, CW turn pulley until the left tab stop is hit, now slowly turn pulley CCW and watch when the shaft starts turning. Plastic inner part has a 3-d arrow formed in it close to the first exterior notch. Setting is to turn the CCW direction with the arrow moving in between the MIN /Max outer notch, before the shaft start to turn. Ideally in the middle of the two exterior notches. Instructions state this, but never said the clip had to be in place ! What happens is CW releases the brake spring for the brake on, CCW applies preasure to unlock the brake, and that should be about the middle of the notches on outer side of ring, when the shaft starts to turn. Two washers are with pulley/bearing kit, one is used depending oh where the middle arrow starts to turn shaft. Apply the grease as instructed. 4 * Brake use of three 10/24 bolts worked well, described by other reviews. Spring is 200 lb. rating, so an adult can push down for most of the movement. The screw turned out easy, and reassembly by pushing down some pressure and screwing in faster saves time. It is the distance of about 1.5x oem screw size that the spring preasure gets hard, so then just keep turning the screws 2-4 turns each, to press back into place. First brake cover plate was totally glazed at brake pad area. I replaced it, but could have possible just sanded it some. Next lower brake pad disc, showed lots of brake pad, Replaced it to since I bought the parts, but maybe just sanding a little would have been good too. 5 * If you pull the two brake parts out, underneath is the upper bearing that was the hard thing to pull off. Start Access by removing the three screws under the brake, and then the outer metal ring support screws.( set of three/two screws. 9/16 inch). Pull cover off and here is the big top bearing with the plastic support housing under it, with no room to move it away. A couple drops of oil in the inner ring, and wheel puller use, the bearing started to slide off easy abut half way off. 6 * All this done and my snubber ring was showing wear, so good idea I bought the new snubber ring and all six tub springs. 7 * Tub springs are a little tough, vise grips, wiggle yourself into position, and do the rear ones first. My washer had all the springs inserted CCW position, spring inserted into base on left side hole that is oval. A little grease on spring bottom loop as per video. 8 * Long story, easy two hours plus, but took my time, brake squeal is gone, tub seems a little less wobble in spin cycle, but still sounds like a dry bearing ! Now starting to think it is the motor bearings just transmitting the sound up the tub like a megaphone ? OEM bearings did not seem worn enough to be an issue. Top bearing is a standard ball bearing, and lower bearing is a thrust roller bearing. Parts so far cost almost half the price of a new washer ! Best of luck, tried to clear up some "what issues" !
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