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PartSelect Number PS11738527
This freezer door gasket is white and made of rubber. It measures approximately 23-3/4 inches wide by thirty-one and a half inches long.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Unplug refrigerator. Open freezer door. Lift the old gasket from the edge closest to the center of the door to expose the hex-head screws. Get a nut driver the appropriate size (1/4" if I remember) and loosen, but do not remove all of the screws. Once loosened, the old gasket can be removed. Slip the new gasket in just like the old one was. Lift the edges closest to the center of the door and tighten the screws. Test the fit of the new gasket by closing the door and sighting carefully down each of the four seal lines. Typically there will be spots where there are gaps, that is, the gasket is not "pulled out" enough to contact the refrigerator body. This is due to kinks that occur to the gasket during shipping. A paper that comes with the gasket notes the effect and recommends using a hair dryer to remove the kinks. Although the recommendation is to use the dryer BEFORE putting the gasket on, I used the dryer after, when I could see exactly where the gaps were. After noting the spots, open the door and with the dryer on HIGH setting, wave the hot air stream back and forth for a minute or two on each spot. Pull each spot out by hand with the hot air off and if/when the gasket is cool enough to touch but still warm. Close the door, inspect and repeat the process if necessary. I was able to achieve a good seal all the way around this way.
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The pro's esimate was over $500 for this one... It's very helpful to have a power tool screwdriver/nut driver. Loosen up the screws (#8 x 1/2" hex-head screws on mine) which hold the gasket in place. These screws also hold the plastic inner-portion of the refrigerator door in place. On my fridge, the parts of the gasket at the top and bottom closest to the hinge had progressively become deformed, perhaps because the outer part of the plastic was not holding the gasket in place hard enough (in these locations, I improved the clamping action by removing the screw and adding a #10 washer). In many locations, the screws turned out to have been driven in hard enough to strip the metal, so a hardware store run was needed to purchase #10 x 1/2" screws - be warned. Before trying to mount the gasket, I worked it over with a hairdryer on the floor (used an old towel to protect floor), to get out the worst of the kinks, then mounted it on the door, tucking the bead between the inner and outer door all the way around. This can be hard enough that if you do have a power tool nut driver, it may be preferable to completely remove the inner door portion, mount the gasket, then screw it back in place. Once the screws are tightened, use the hairdryer to soften the areas which don't contact properly, working on the gasket with your fingers and/or by repeatedly opening and closing the door, until you have smooth contact all the way around. I did not remove the doors completely, simply stowed the freezer compartment stuff in an ice chest, and used cardboard to close the main refrigerator compartment.
Other stories I've read here speak to difficulty of changing a gasket with the door on the appliance. Whoa! Take the door off, tape cardboard over the opening, lay the door on its back and proceed. You will avoid racking or twisting the door and having the new gasket fit worse than the old. You can also thaw ice which often forms inside a door over time. Reinstall the door taking pains to shim properly so the new gasket is not overcompressed or allowing a gap. A dollar bill is a good gauge. It should resist a bit as it is pulled out after closing the door on it. This was not exactly step-by-step, just offered as advice from a whole bunch of experience.
I removed all the food items from the door. I removed the old gasket by loosening up the screws at the top of the door. The rest of the old gasket pulled out easily from the rest of the door. While the gasket was off, I took the time to clean up the door. I startede at the top of the door, loosening up the screws but not removing them. I then replaced each side of the door seperately. I found it helpful to have a flat blade to help poke the gasket into place. Because I was in the kitchen, I used a metal spatula. The corners were the trickiest. Using a hand held hair dryer helped to soften the gasket when it became cold. The freezer and fridge have good seals now and the refrigerator is good as new.
First I removed all the screws with the exception of the top row, these I just loosend.I made sure how the old one was installed before I removed it.I then used a hair dryer on the new one briefly to take out the shipping kinks.I removed the old one and put the new one in with a little adjusting as i went. I then put all the screws back in,adjusted it a little more and finished by snuging up all the screws.It was very easy and works like new.
Very easily removed the nuts holding the gasket to the door. Previously took new gasket from packaging and used a hair dryer to smooth the wrinkles from it, about 5 minutes. Installed the new gasket and adjusted the seating of the actual freezer door, for a proper fit. Now there is no snow in my freezer and the poor compressor only kicks on maybe ten times a day, as opposed to most of the day. Not to mention what the savings in electricity may be and extended life for my Amana. Should have done this two months ago. Service and shipping from Parts Select is second to none, with a website interface that makes sense- try most of the other online retailers and you will know what I mean.
1st remove the gasket from the packaging & let it get to room temperature . 2nd use a hair dryer to get it in shape . 3rd cut out a piece of the box that the door gasket was delivered in to cover the freezer opening after you remove the door,4th(remove the door by removing the bottom hinge) 5th put the door on a table to remove the old gasket with a screw gun,(now is a good time to clean the door up) after the old gasket & panel was removed I found the insulation inside the door panel frozen solid so I replaced it .If you don't replace this fiberglass insulation or a least try to thaw it out you defeat the purpose of the doors insulations R value. 6th replace the gasket (replace the gasket the same way that you removed it) 7th put the door back on the freezer.You don't have to remove the freezer door to do this job but it makes a much neater job & a better seal when the door is closed. This isn't the 1st door gasket I replaced so I kind of knew what I was doing.Good Luck
I hired someone to do this, but after watching him do it, this is an easy job. Amana made a smart refrigerator and it's easy to do your self. I saved a LOT of money buying the parts here and I should have attempted it myself. The trick is heating up the gasket once it was mounted and then when you had a tight seal to the door, tape the door shut and LEAVE it as many hours as you can (minimum of 4, but overnight better).
Soaked the gaskets in bathtub to make them more pliable. They laid flatter and were easier towork with,
I removes all food and drink items from the refrigerator and freezer doors. I then removed all of the screws holding the inner panel of the refrigerator door to the door itself. The old gasket could then be removed. I placed the new door gasket in place around the inner panel and reinstalled the inner panel with new gasket onto the refrigerator door. I then removed the inner panel from the freezer door and then removed the old gasket. I placed the new door gasket in place around the inner panel and reinstalled the inner panel with new gasket onto the freezer door. I used a portable drill with a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove and reinstall the many screws that held the inner panel and gasket on the doors.
it was self explanatory, very quick delivery. Will use again if the need arises.
The repair went very well. Once the sockethead cap screws were taken out of the seal and the ripped seal was removed, the door panel separated from the door itself allowing me to see that ice had already been forming within the insulation. I was fortunate to have decided to replace the seal when I did or further damage would have occurred. After thoroughly cleaning the refrigerator and freezer I replaced the seal using a hair dryer as suggested to tighten the seal into place. Everything is working as it should once again.
Loosen bolts, remove gasket. Replace gaskets then tighten bolts.The gaskets new were very out of shape when they were delivered this made it very difficult to put them back on. Even after warming them up with the hair dryer.
I removed all food items from inside fridge/freezer doors.I then noticed how gaskets slip behind outter skin of both doors after removing all screws except a few on the top, inorder to keep from having entire door skin fall to the floor.Using back of spoon helps to properly fit gaskets into place without any rips.Using nut driver really helps with saving time and the "hairdryer" suggestion really helps with having gasket seat firmly around entire unit.Just take your time and pay attention to corners,they may need a little streching.
Refrigerator door was removed and placed on a set of "horses". Fastners were loosened about 3/4 thread length. Old gasket removed. New one installed. It was necessary to use a "hair dryer" to take out shipping kninks.Used a piece of 1 1/2 inch sheet styrofoam to seal the dooropening during the process so as not requiring emptying theunit.The freezer door was a bit more difficult. This one was done in place. The Styrofoam sheet was cut down and fit in this opening as mentioned above. Inner door panel was removed to reveal heavy ice build up inside door. This was allow to melt and removed along with the fiberglass insulation. New fiberglass insulation was installed and the door reassembled. In general everything went quite smoothly. Fit on both gaskets was really good.
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