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PartSelect Number PS11738231
This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat itself is a little over an inch long while its extending wires are almost seven inches long.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
removed bottom dust cover removed four screws that hold the 8 hour timer and disconnected the wiring harness. second I removed the ice maker and the back panel in my freezer and uncliped the defrost thermostat unpluged the two wires and replaced with the new one very simple.
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Were these instructions helpful?
I was able to change the timer but I unable to change the thermostat. I dont know how to reach.
remove frozen food. take back panel off. use hair dryer to dethaw finned part. swapped defrost thermostat.one lead ok, other had to cut ends and wire splice together. replace panel and food. took care of problem, food in fridge stays cold. totally impressed with delivery time. ordered mon here tuesday. awesome..........
use your site as a referance no problem customer rep was great also
I used the original connector from the spent thermostat and waterproofed the connection with a 16g wire nut and electric tape. Works great! In hindsight I would have ordered the part earlier as this is a typical solution to a freezer frosting over. Manual defrost is a pain!
It made so so easy watching the video. Thank you for that. I was ready to but a new one for about $800. but I did the repairs in about 20 minutes for about $23. Thank again
Followed advice from some forum posts here to replace Defrost timer and/or bimetal thermostat. First started with the defrost timer, but the freezer frosted over again. Then replaced bimetal and seems to have resolved the problem. Simple repair. If it wasnt for having to defrost the freezer each time I replaced the parts, it would have taken less time to repair.
Noticed that defrost sensor on freezer evaporator coils ruptured and defrost timer not working -- refrig running constantly. Replaced both sensor and timer. Refrigator working properly now.
I checked your web site for similar problems. Most were the bimetal defrost thermostat. Some had defrost timer problems. Althought my bimetal thermostat was deformed by the ice I replaced both parts. The fix was easy after defrosting the evaporator. By using the spec sheets I found the locations and replaced the parts. The refrigerator is now working fine.
Had to defrost the freezer which takes most of the time. Once freezer is defrosted its a simple matter of disassembling and removing the cover which covers the evaporator and disconnecting the defrost thermostat and replacing with the new one then reassembling. The information provided at the Parts Select site was all I needed to get the repair done.
Remove trays and front drawer (2 screws, probably optional, but but easier to work with it removed). Remove the icemaker (2 screws), disconnect icemaker electrical connection. Remove back panel (bunch of screws). Once there, I heated up the coil to remove all the ice so I could get to the thermostat (it had become very clogged from not being defrosted). Remove and replace the thermostat, then put everything back. Now works perfectly.
Since I wasn't sure if it was the bimetal thermostat or timer, I purchased both. After reading the comments of other repairer's, the price of both parts was worth the work of defrosting the freezer twice.I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the ice buildup in the freezer. I removed the trays and rear panel (7 screws). I had to remove the ice on the condenser (a hair dryer works perfectly). The thermostat came off easily, just unsnaps. Like others, I had to cut 1 wire, solder and tape the old end terminal to match the wiring. I relpaced the panel and trays. I then removed the timer housing 2 screws and the timer 2 screws. The timer was an exact replacement. Just unplug the old and plug in the new. The only rough part was the bottom housing screw. The bottom frame was in the way but with a little wiggling and bending I was able to remove it. Its been over a week and everything is working great.(the unit is even running less now). I know I saved a lot of money doing the repair myself. The repair stories were very helpfull. I will go to your site for other repairs and parts. Susan Staten Island, New York
Just as others discribed, removing ice maker, defrosting Freezer, removing freezer basket and shelf, removing the back panel, locating the iced over thermostat. One of the connectors wasn't the same, so I cut off the connector and wire from the old thermostat, spliced the wire and connector to the new one. Used heat shrink to cover the splice. Reassembled everything. :-D
I unplugged the old thermostat and tested it with my meter and found it was always closed. I hooked up the new thermostat and the ran the defrost cycle and I now had heat in the defrost heater and the problem was solved.
Emptied the contents of the freezerRemoved the panel covering the coils and fanSince I suspected the thermostat, I removed it and tested for continuity. When it was constantly "open" I decided it was defective, and ordered a new one from PartSelect.As an interim fix, I connected together the two wires that had been attached to the thermostat, so the fan ran constantly.When the part arrived, I connected it, replaced the cover panel and monitored the temperature for a day to verify that it maintained below freezing.
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