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PartSelect Number PS11736298
Also known as spark electrode. This part helps your burner ignite and produce flame.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the old igniter by working a thin screwdriver under the edge of the igniter, and carefully prying it up. I then used pliers to pull off the electrical wire. Connected up the new igniter, and pushed it back into the hole. A very simple repair. I've replaced 2 igniters on this stove. My symptoms were that when I tried to light one of the bad burners I heard clicking, and could see the spark on the other (working) burners. So I knew the basic sparking function was working. Just that the igniter on the broken burner would not spark.
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Other writers have claimed that this is a "really easy" job. They apparently had one or more of: 1. Less used appliance. 2. Never spilled anything on the cooktop 3. Much better luck. In my case, the apparently faulty igniter absolutely would not pull out. I removed it by removing the burner retaining screws and prying under the burner casting. Having done that, I cleaned the igniter and tested it again. None of the igniters worked, and I could hear arcing under the cooktop, indicating one or more of the igniter HV wires had somehow grounded. After a fruitless search for instructions on raising the cooktop, I stumbled upon an envelope glued to the back of the range that told me to remove all four burners and igniters and to release the cooktop by inserting a thin screwdriver under the front edge about 3" from each end to release the spring clips. Several of the igniters were cemented in place with caramelized sugar and required some pretty vigorous prying to dislodge. If I had this to do again on a range that had been ridden hard, I wouldproactively order a full set of gaskets (they're fragile), the HV harness (even if it doesn't leak as mine did, the igniter connectors degrade from heat exposure), a set of electrode mounting clips (none of them were much use either), and enough igniters to replace any that don't work plus at least one. I pried out the recalcitrant igniters; in retrospect I should have crushed them because of the severe risk imposed by prying of breaking either a burner casting or the cooktop -- either of which are far more expensive than another igniter.
Repair to range went real well, Lifted range from counter. Removed eight screws that secure burnerassembly. Lifted burners from it's position, andremoved igniters. Installed heat srink at burner connections so as to ensure high voltage wouldhave no leaks. Removed insulation, and installedspark module.. Reassembled unit, placed in counter cut out, put 110 volt cord into outlet.Tested all burners, everything worked great..The repair took about hour and 15 minutes.Have fun and be careful...... THE END
Pulled the old one out. Disconnected the wire. Repaired the frayed wire cover with Liquid Tape. Connected the wire. Inserted the new part into the hole. This is after installing a new spark module earlier. But that was dumb easy too. So for about $100 bucks in parts and an hour of my time I saved myself the appliance repairman money and agonizing scheduling and dealing with them for the price of gold. I also replaced all the gaskets on the burners in that time. It so easy even a financial planner could do it.
I removed the burner head #152 and the Burner Cap #330, no tools are needed to remove these items. I pulled the igniter up far enough to get to the wire, disconnected and connected the new igniter put it back in place, reassembled the two parts plugged it back in and turned it on and it worked.
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